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Old 04-18-2017, 06:06 PM   #21
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Here's my take. We were in a similar situation and decided on the 28BHBE and towed it 3000 miles in 2 years camping all summer around Northern Michigan. Although we could tow it without issues, we knew we were over weight for payload and close for towing. The porposing on some roads is annoying, but manageable. I felt safe, but heavy for the 1/2 ton capacity. We upgraded to a 3500 this fall. If we were to do it over again, a lighter trailer would have been a smarter choice, but we like the 28BHBE and knew an upgrade was in our future.
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Old 04-18-2017, 09:16 PM   #22
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JHerzog, can you explain why the 267BHSW and the 287 BhSW are too heavy?
267- unloaded 5425
Hitch 625
GVWR 7000

287 unloaded 6005
Hitch 645
GVWR 7500.

I'm missing how these are too heavy?


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As I mentioned in my fairly long post. The unloaded weight and hitch weight that you will find on the website mean nothing.

Those weights are without options, propane or anything. So unless you plan on getting a base model camper and pull it around completely empty then it will never weigh this much.

The GVWR is the max weight of the trailer so you shouldn't be that heavy but somewhere between that empty weight and the GVWR. It will be closer to GVWR than it will be to the unloaded weight either way. Then you need to take that ball park estimate and figure out 13-15% of that which goes against the cargo (payload) limits on the truck.

Of the two trailers, if it were me it is an easy decision the lighter 267 is the better of the two. If your numbers were right in your first post though, you are going to be pushing the limits even with the lighter one. That is why we went Jay Feather.

This is based on the 900lbs hitch limit that you mentioned. You might be able to beef up the hitch (the part that bolts to the frame under the truck) in the F150. Sometimes that can be done but keep in mind that the additional weight of the new hitch goes against cargo capacity.

It is really confusing because there are so many different numbers that get thrown around and it doesn't help how the dealers slap 1/2 ton towable on just about every trailer around and it simply isn't the case.
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Old 04-19-2017, 07:14 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by MichiganRVMom View Post
JHerzog, can you explain why the 267BHSW and the 287 BhSW are too heavy?
267- unloaded 5425
Hitch 625
GVWR 7000

287 unloaded 6005
Hitch 645
GVWR 7500.

I'm missing how these are too heavy?


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I am sorry I misread the specs on the 267 BHSW and thought the GVWR of 7000 lbs. was the dry ship weight. At a dry ship weight of only 5425 lbs. this does appear to be the lightest of the 3 options but remember for all 3 you will probably add an additional 1,000 lbs. of "stuff" we all bring with us camping. That puts the loaded weight at a minimum of 6425 lbs. At a 10-15% tongue weight that equates to 645-960 lbs. Add the weight of a good Weight Distributing Hitch (100 lbs.) and you are pushing the limits of an F150's tongue weight. Of all the towing weight restrictions I have found this to be the most limiting weight factor for the F150 without even getting into payload capacity or the total GVW.

The 28 BHBE dry ship weight is 6805 + 1,000 lbs. of stuff is 7805 X 15% is a tongue weight of 1170 lbs.


The 287 BHSW dry ship weight is 6090 + 1,000 lbs. of stuff is 7090 lbs. X 15% = 1060 lbs.

Tongue weight is your limiting factor IMHO
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Old 04-19-2017, 07:27 AM   #24
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I am sorry I misread the specs on the 267 BHSW and thought the GVWR of 7000 lbs. was the dry ship weight. At a dry ship weight of only 5425 lbs. this does appear to be the lightest of the 3 options but remember for all 3 you will probably add an additional 1,000 lbs. of "stuff" we all bring with us camping. That puts the loaded weight at a minimum of 6425 lbs. At a 10-15% tongue weight that equates to 645-960 lbs. Add the weight of a good Weight Distributing Hitch (100 lbs.) and you are pushing the limits of an F150's tongue weight. Of all the towing weight restrictions I have found this to be the most limiting weight factor for the F150 without even getting into payload capacity or the total GVW.

The 28 BHBE dry ship weight is 6805 + 1,000 lbs. of stuff is 7805 X 15% is a tongue weight of 1170 lbs.


The 287 BHSW dry ship weight is 6090 + 1,000 lbs. of stuff is 7090 lbs. X 15% = 1060 lbs.

Tongue weight is your limiting factor IMHO


Thank you! I feel like I need a Phd in towing to understand this, I wish it was more cut and dry! Can anyone for sure remind me how to calculate what my tongue weight is to make sure I am giving you all accurate numbers? Or where I can find that on the stickers, etc?


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Old 04-19-2017, 07:40 AM   #25
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Thank you! I feel like I need a Phd in towing to understand this, I wish it was more cut and dry! Can anyone for sure remind me how to calculate what my tongue weight is to make sure I am giving you all accurate numbers? Or where I can find that on the stickers, etc?


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For my 2013 F150 the max tongue weight was on a sticker inside the drivers side door. You might start by looking there. It will depend on the tow package that came with your specific truck. According to the link below the general specs don't narrow it down much as it shows anywhere from 500 to 1220 lbs. depending on the tow package or lack thereof.

http://www.ford.com/resources/ford/g...0_r1_Jan12.pdf
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Old 04-19-2017, 08:03 AM   #26
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For my 2013 F150 the max tongue weight was on a sticker inside the drivers side door. You might start by looking there. It will depend on the tow package that came with your specific truck. According to the link below the general specs don't narrow it down much as it shows anywhere from 500 to 1220 lbs. depending on the tow package or lack thereof.

http://www.ford.com/resources/ford/g...0_r1_Jan12.pdf


I seriously cannot thank you all enough for your patience with me. Seriously. I realize how annoying this probably is for all of you veteran campers.

This is the Vin info I pulled up. Not sure if this is accurate but I would think so with the VIN? According to this Max Tongue Weight should be 720-900, I think??

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/v...inDecoderFarea

Under the " tech specs" part, has all of the information! Let me know if y'all see something I don't!



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Old 04-19-2017, 08:11 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by MichiganRVMom View Post
Thank you! I feel like I need a Phd in towing to understand this, I wish it was more cut and dry! Can anyone for sure remind me how to calculate what my tongue weight is to make sure I am giving you all accurate numbers? Or where I can find that on the stickers, etc?


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That is the problem. You really can't calculate it when shopping. You can look at the dry ship weight but as I said this isn't accurate. That is without the propane tanks, options and anything you put in it. If you are looking at campers in stock at the dealer then you can look at the yellow sticker. On new models it is inside the door and another one outside near on the driver's side. This will show what the trailer weighed when it left the factory with propane tanks. It also will show an estimate on how much weight your fresh water tank will add when full. However still without any stuff in it. Here is what the sticker looks like on my 25BH. It is lighter than the ones you are looking at.



That sticker shows my camper weighed 5604lbs with propane as it left the factory. As we said you want 13-15% of that to be tongue weight.

5604*.13 = 728
5604*.15 = 840

So I am at somewhere in the 728-840lbs range on paper plus I add 80lbs for my wight distribution hitch (going by its shipping weight) so that means I am at 808 to 920lbs before I put anything in my camper. You stated your truck has a max hitch weight of 900 so my Jay Feather 25BH which is lighter than either camper you are looking at might exceed your 900lbs capacity of the hitch if it was completely empty if it had 15% of the weight on the tongue. Being ours has the optional outdoor kitchen that is a lot of weight in the back so empty we are probably closer to the the 13% so it would work but that is hauling it around empty which no one does.

The problem is that there is no way to determine the hitch weight on paper. All we can do is a guessing game. I can say we are going to have about 800lbs of stuff in our camper but that is because we may pack light for 2-3 days but with a full fresh water tank. The next person might not carry any water because they always camp at full hookup sites. Until you have been camping for a bit and visit a CAT Scale there is no way to guess. One family will rough it the next brings 3 TVs a Playstation, Xbox and three latops. This is why we can't predict what the tongue weight will be for you and why I normally guess and just use the GVWR number for the trailer weight as that should be your worst case number.

With that I came up with the following for the two campers you looked at. These numbers are before adding 80 lbs for a hitch and in both cases you are over 900 lbs which is why I mentioned looking at a Jay Feather 25BH. We had this same problem but I my truck has a bit more wiggle room on the hitch with a max rating of 1000 lbs.

267BHSW GVWR=7000
7000*.13 = 910
7000*.15 = 1050

287BHSW GVWR = 7500
7500*.13 = 975
7500*.15 = 1125
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Old 04-19-2017, 08:14 AM   #28
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As mentioned above, the best way to know what your vehicle is rated for is the door sticker. Searching VIN numbers is a crap shoot, because many things are bunch together, such as you stated tongue weight of 720-900. This is not a estimate and it is clearly stated on your door jam.

One thing to consider, is that everything added to your truck aftermarket, such as nerf bars/steps, bed liners are all subtracted from your door sticker payload.

If you are in the city mentioned, you should check out TCRV. I'm heading there tomorrow to pick up our trailer. Very nice group, but pay attention to your door stickers and you will be fine. A 5500lb dry camper should be fine. Ours is quite a lot more than that. Also, the stickers attached to the campers are much different than what's posted on Jayco's website.
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Old 04-19-2017, 08:24 AM   #29
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I seriously cannot thank you all enough for your patience with me. Seriously. I realize how annoying this probably is for all of you veteran campers.

This is the Vin info I pulled up. Not sure if this is accurate but I would think so with the VIN? According to this Max Tongue Weight should be 720-900, I think??

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/v...inDecoderFarea

Under the " tech specs" part, has all of the information! Let me know if y'all see something I don't!



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I wouldn't trust that data. Look in the manual and on the door jamb.

Most manufacturers have an online towing guide. Here is the one from Ford for the 2015 F150.

http://www.ford.com/resources/ford/g...0_r1_Jan12.pdf

Look at the bottom of page 4. For the category of Hitch Receiver Weight Capacity.

What this is telling you is if you use a regular hitch like you might have for a small utility trailer which is Class III you can have a max hitch weight of 500 lbs and a trailer wight of 5,000. However you won't use that kind of hitch. You will have to use a Class IV weight distribution hitch with the bars and or chains that go back from the hitch to the trailer. This increases your load capacity to 1220 lbs for tongue weight and 12,200 lbs on the trailer.

So this guide tells me that your 720-900 hitch capacity isn't accurate and why we are saying ignore those VIN Searches from 3rd party organizations.

With this new information, if you use a Class IV hitch like an Equalizer, Blue Ox or others out there, you will be fine for the hitch rating of either camper you liked.

However now you need to look at that sticker still near the door of the truck and see what the payload capacity is. You may also have to look at the manual to see if they gave you a 150lbs credit for the drive. This is the other number you are against. Your hitch might be able to support 1140 lbs tongue weight + 80 for the hitch (1,200 total) but when you add weight of the passengers, cargo in the truck, plus aftermarket stuff like bed covers, running boards you may only have 1000 cargo capacity left.
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Old 04-19-2017, 08:41 AM   #30
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Thank you! I feel like I need a Phd in towing to understand this, I wish it was more cut and dry! Can anyone for sure remind me how to calculate what my tongue weight is to make sure I am giving you all accurate numbers? Or where I can find that on the stickers, etc?


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I have a 2016 f150 with factory tow and the tongue weight figures are stamped right on the hitch itself (I have to crawl under the truck to see it). My maximum tongue weight is 500 lbs. without a WDH and 1100 lbs. with. The payload number for my truck is on the driver's side door jamb (the yellow sticker that shows recommended tire pressures will have an "occupants and cargo not to exceed XXXXlbs" figure and that XXXX is YOUR truck's payload). I have a white sticker just below the payload sticker that shows GVWR, axle weights, GCVWR, and other stuff. As you have an f150 too your numbers may be in the same places as mine.

Keep in mind your yellow and white stickers show the numbers for the truck as it came from Ford, and if you've added any accessories they have to be deducted from those numbers. I left my truck as is specifically so I wouldn't dig into my capacities, but if you have your Ford chopped, chromed, and toasted it might be difficult to know how much weight you've added and so the scale is likely the safest bet. I'm brand new to this too but the math is simple once you have all the information on your truck/trailer combination, and however close you get to your limits is up to you. I personally chose a Jay Feather with a GVW of 6250 lbs. because I'll be well below all my weight limits and I feel safer that way, but I'm in the same boat as you are - I've pulled a horse trailer but never a travel trailer so my words are just air at this point. That said, one rookie to another, hope I've helped.
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Old 04-19-2017, 08:41 AM   #31
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Welcome MichiganRVMom! I bought a Jayco X213 a year ago and had never spent one night in a TT - ever - and my wife, kids and I had so much fun last summer exploring our shared state of Michigan. I'd suggest just going for it! Good luck with all the decisions and have fun!
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Old 04-19-2017, 09:19 AM   #32
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Food for thought. Some real world 28BHBE weight figures
As shipped: 7189lbs. (No idea of shipped tongue weight)
Loaded ready to camp. Full FWT: 8800lbs total
Tongue weight: 1200lbs

These are actual scale weights. Well within my limits I know there are folks out there towing the 28 BHBE with 1/2 ton trucks. (F150, Tundra, 1500 series GM & Ram.

It can be done but I have no idea what the towing experience is like I tow with a 3500HD Silverado so I have never had to worry about what I put in the box of the truck. (Firewood, bikes, BBQ, coolers etc.

Just some real world numbers here.
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Old 04-19-2017, 09:25 AM   #33
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Food for thought. Some real world 28BHBE weight figures
As shipped: 7189lbs. (No idea of shipped tongue weight)
Loaded ready to camp. Full FWT: 8800lbs total
Tongue weight: 120lbs

~snip
Hope you are missing a "1" on the tongue weight....
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Old 04-19-2017, 09:28 AM   #34
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Yup I did. Oooops! . Corrected to 1200lbs. Autocorrect is a terrible thing.
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Old 04-19-2017, 10:45 AM   #35
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[QUOTE=MichiganRVMom;512056]Hey all! My husband and I are in the market for our first RV purchase. We are looking at a few different Jayco models including the 267BHSW the 268 BHSW and the 28BHBE. I am comparing used models right now and also speaking to a dealership as well. I grew up camping, but my husband is new to this. He has slowly gotten on board and I am so excited to have some adventures with our 3 year old and 6 year old!

We will mostly be using state parks, but may hit the occasional Jellystone-type park as well as possibly taking it tailgating for some Michigan football games [emoji4]

I have been lurking for awhile now, and have ready many, many posts but I was hoping some of you camping experts may be able to help!

My husband's truck is a 2015 Ford F-150 4WD Supercab 145" XLT. . The payload sticker says 1973lbs. The GVWR is 7050lbs, the Max trailer hitch is 720-900 pounds and I have 9100 trailer capacity. Those are all numbers I have from the VIN, but I am an English major and none of this makes any sense to me! I don't want to get too much trailer for our truck. I was trying to narrow down to a few options before talking with my husband as it has taken me almost a year to get him on board with trying camping (I know, right?!?).

Can any of you help me out? I have read post after post of examples but none of it is making any sense to my brain! Thank you so much in advance!


This may have gotten too complicated but I think all who responded would agree that if you keep your TT at around 6,000lbs and your stuff around 1,000lbs (total 7,000lbs) you should be OK with an F150 with a good Weight Distributing Hitch (WDH).
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Old 04-20-2017, 10:25 AM   #36
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As mentioned above, the best way to know what your vehicle is rated for is the door sticker. Searching VIN numbers is a crap shoot, because many things are bunch together, such as you stated tongue weight of 720-900. This is not a estimate and it is clearly stated on your door jam.



One thing to consider, is that everything added to your truck aftermarket, such as nerf bars/steps, bed liners are all subtracted from your door sticker payload.



If you are in the city mentioned, you should check out TCRV. I'm heading there tomorrow to pick up our trailer. Very nice group, but pay attention to your door stickers and you will be fine. A 5500lb dry camper should be fine. Ours is quite a lot more than that. Also, the stickers attached to the campers are much different than what's posted on Jayco's website.

We are looking through TCRV as well, what model did you end up getting?




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Old 04-20-2017, 02:39 PM   #37
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We have a 28BHBE and love it!
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Old 04-20-2017, 03:11 PM   #38
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Welcome MichiganRVMom! I bought a Jayco X213 a year ago and had never spent one night in a TT - ever - and my wife, kids and I had so much fun last summer exploring our shared state of Michigan. I'd suggest just going for it! Good luck with all the decisions and have fun!
We did the same thing, never spent a night in a TT but were not afraid to dig in and just do it. Unfortunately we started with an old 95 Hornet from a friends son. When we got it home we realized it was full of water damage and still leaking.
I sold it on craigslist (noting the problems) took a $800 hit and decided to go brand new. So glad I did because I don't have to worry about things breaking down as much and it gives me a 2 year window (warranty) to figure out how the trailer works.
I have a 27BHS and am happy we picked that model. We use the bunk beds for storing kayak gear, lawn chairs and luggage (no kids) .
The only regret I have now is that I didn't get the Elite Package or at least 2 Fresh Water Tanks. We also do a lot of state camping and they usually don't provide individual water spigots for each site and we run out of fresh water on our 3rd day.
I think the weights are similar to what you are looking at
Guessing (I'm not at home) I think it's just over 6,000 lbs dry weight and 7,500 lbs gross weight.
I decided to not go with the less expensive SLX because I like the power everything (awning, tongue, LED lights, etc.)
Good luck on your decision and Happy Trails
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Old 04-20-2017, 03:19 PM   #39
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Forgot I had the specs on my phone:

27BHS
6065 lbs dry weight
620 lbs dry hitch weight
2185 lbs cargo carrying capacity
8250 lbs Gross Weight Rating
31'8' long with tongue
81" inside height
131" height with A/C
96" wide
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Old 05-02-2017, 01:16 PM   #40
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So... just an update... rather than upgrade the truck we had some serious discussion about whether or not we really needed a slide and whether or not it was worth the extra weight. We looked at the previous bigger models but also have a seriously good deal on a used (1 month) 2017 SLX 264BHW. We are 99% sure we are leaning towards that, which totally means we can tow it, and though we can afford a bigger trailer I don't think we *need* it. Still finalizing our plans but we were approved today and plan to pick up next week! Thank you all so much for your input!


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