Hummm, I thought I had replied to this thread.
You are correct to disconnect your city water connection. You do not mention how long you expect to be below freezing and how cold, nor if you are using the TT. If you are using the TT, I expect you will have the furnace running, so the internal piping will be fine. I do leave the doors to cabinets that have plumbing in them ajar just to be safe. I also like to keep the FW tank full at night, because water freezes from the top down, and the pickup tube is at the bottom of the tank. At night if we get up to use the restroom, we turn on the kitchen faucet for a moment as it is the last fixtures on the line, just to move a little water to ensure they do not freeze up.
If the pipes are all inside the TT the internal heat of the TT will keep them warm enough and from freezing. If for some reason the pipes are run on the outside of the TT or through an unconditioned area such as a cargo hold you may want to look at some pipe insulation. Just remember if you make a box, residual heat from the TT will be blocked from getting to the valve and it may freeze as your only opening would be to the outside where the cold is located.
If the TT is empty and just sitting at a season site or at home, I would drain the entire system include pulling the low point drains and open all the faucets. As for the low point drains freezing while using the TT with the heat on. I would not be concerned as there is almost no cold surface temperature in contact with the valve, and what there is in overwhelmed by the warmer valve body within the TT. The valve and water has a lot of thermal mass compared to the small amount of cold air. One of the things I did do to my TT, is caulk the area around the low point drain pipe and the floor, I did this to keep critters out (mice), which will also help keep the cabinet that the valve is in warmer.
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