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Old 12-15-2018, 02:52 PM   #1
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Furnace Gremlin NO CLUE

2018 Jayco 27RL Furance runs 20 seconds no fire. Transported to dealer bench test perfect. Returned home worked 3 cycles same thing. Called Dometic NO clue called Jayco SO sorry No Clue. Back to dealer new gas regulator new reset switch ran perfect for 4 cycles same thing. I've gone thru the 12 volt side found one loose wire no change. Only thing else is sail switch or SALE trailer lol. You know when its cold you got to have heat. Heat should not be this hard....it is very frustrating owning something new that doesn't work. My dealer has been helpful but they rely on the same 2 manufacturers I referred to earlier. These folks have been building these for years how can they have NO CLUE???
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Old 12-15-2018, 02:59 PM   #2
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When it fails does it completely fail to light, or does it light and then drop out? This sounds like an ignition problem, or a failure to prove flame after the burner lights.
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Old 12-15-2018, 03:02 PM   #3
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Furance

When it fails I hear no click for burner to lite. All tanks are full.
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Old 12-15-2018, 03:03 PM   #4
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The burner never even tries to lite when it starts failing.
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Old 12-15-2018, 03:07 PM   #5
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The crazy thing is both times it was reinstalled it worked perfect for the 3 or 4 cycles then would die. And when i say die it would try about 3 times after that to cycle and then completely stop. I've bypassed the therm same thing 20 seconds shuts off.
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Old 12-15-2018, 03:11 PM   #6
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Then I would lean towards the airflow proving switch. I would first insure there is good airflow, then look at the switch. I’ve been in HVAC for 34 years so I feel comfortable doing this, but you can TEMPORARLY jump out the air flow switch and see if it lights. If it does, test it over and over to confirm the air flow switch is the culprit.

There are just a few items in the safety string that must be made prior to lighting.
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Old 12-15-2018, 03:16 PM   #7
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Are you referring to what they call the sail switch that hangs on the side of the motor?
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Old 12-15-2018, 03:19 PM   #8
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The air flow is excellent as far as i can tell when it works it heats the house very quickly.
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Old 12-15-2018, 03:22 PM   #9
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Has anyone jumped the T-stat wires or just twisted them together for a quick check? I have seen T-stats go bad and mimic a host of issues. Just take the two heating wires for the T-stat and join them together for a quick test.
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Old 12-15-2018, 03:25 PM   #10
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Yes the air flow switch is the sail switch usually located on the side of the blower housing. Make sure you have at least 10.5 VDC.
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Old 12-15-2018, 03:26 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GraftonGuns View Post
Has anyone jumped the T-stat wires or just twisted them together for a quick check? I have seen T-stats go bad and mimic a host of issues. Just take the two heating wires for the T-stat and join them together for a quick test.
yes thanks that has been done T-state is good and surprisingly accurate
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Old 12-15-2018, 03:28 PM   #12
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Yes the air flow switch is the sail switch usually located on the side of the blower housing. Make sure you have at least 10.5 VDC.
Very good will do can they get bent and as for by pass i can just jumper the 2 wires together?? Temporarily of-course.
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Old 12-15-2018, 03:32 PM   #13
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Thanks

Thanks to everyone I'll get back with a report my unit must be removed from the inside so it takes a few.
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Old 12-15-2018, 03:32 PM   #14
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Has anyone jumped the T-stat wires or just twisted them together for a quick check? I have seen T-stats go bad and mimic a host of issues. Just take the two heating wires for the T-stat and join them together for a quick test.
He’s saying the blower runs as far as I understand, so the T-Stat is closed for heat.
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Old 12-15-2018, 03:35 PM   #15
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Very good will do can they get bent and as for by pass i can just jumper the 2 wires together?? Temporarily of-course.
You can jump them together, but you need to be very careful, insuring the blower is running each time you attempt to lite the furnace. The safety string only has two devices. The limit switch and sail switch.
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Old 12-15-2018, 03:40 PM   #16
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You can jump them together, but you need to be very careful, insuring the blower is running each time you attempt to lite the furnace. The safety string only has two devices. The limit switch and sail switch.
Understood
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Old 12-15-2018, 08:24 PM   #17
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Did you try connecting it directly to portable propane tank while in the RV?
Wondering if there is an issue on the factory propane line, maybe a kink somewhere.
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Old 12-15-2018, 09:22 PM   #18
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Did you try connecting it directly to portable propane tank while in the RV?
Wondering if there is an issue on the factory propane line, maybe a kink somewhere.
I was thinking gas flow as well. If you want to test with a portable tank remember you will need a pressure regulator, don’t connect the tank without it. Another possibility is the burn chamber. Critters love to nest there (insects) and that can prevent the furnace from firing. Try cleaning it out with compressed air or a dryer vent cleaning tool. YouTube will have videos related to flame color, which indicates air and gas flows. There is also a circuit board that could have an intermittent fault.
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Old 12-16-2018, 06:16 AM   #19
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I recently had similar issues with my furnace. It turned out to be a fried board due to water getting into compartment and a sail switch that was slightly bent. The board I replaced and relocated to a weatherproof area. The sail switch I just bent back to its proper position. I had an ice issue last year that caused all this damage.
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Old 12-16-2018, 04:01 PM   #20
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My 2018 does the same thing. Now the water heater sounds lime the flame is flickering off and on when it's running. Very unhappy
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