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12-15-2018, 02:52 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: El Dorado
Posts: 67
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Furnace Gremlin NO CLUE
2018 Jayco 27RL Furance runs 20 seconds no fire. Transported to dealer bench test perfect. Returned home worked 3 cycles same thing. Called Dometic NO clue called Jayco SO sorry No Clue. Back to dealer new gas regulator new reset switch ran perfect for 4 cycles same thing. I've gone thru the 12 volt side found one loose wire no change. Only thing else is sail switch or SALE trailer lol. You know when its cold you got to have heat. Heat should not be this hard....it is very frustrating owning something new that doesn't work. My dealer has been helpful but they rely on the same 2 manufacturers I referred to earlier. These folks have been building these for years how can they have NO CLUE???
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12-15-2018, 02:59 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Tucson
Posts: 661
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When it fails does it completely fail to light, or does it light and then drop out? This sounds like an ignition problem, or a failure to prove flame after the burner lights.
__________________
2018 Dodge RAM 2500 / Cummins 6.7 Turbo Diesel
2018 White Hawk 28RL
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12-15-2018, 03:02 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: El Dorado
Posts: 67
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Furance
When it fails I hear no click for burner to lite. All tanks are full.
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12-15-2018, 03:03 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: El Dorado
Posts: 67
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The burner never even tries to lite when it starts failing.
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12-15-2018, 03:07 PM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: El Dorado
Posts: 67
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The crazy thing is both times it was reinstalled it worked perfect for the 3 or 4 cycles then would die. And when i say die it would try about 3 times after that to cycle and then completely stop. I've bypassed the therm same thing 20 seconds shuts off.
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12-15-2018, 03:11 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Tucson
Posts: 661
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Then I would lean towards the airflow proving switch. I would first insure there is good airflow, then look at the switch. I’ve been in HVAC for 34 years so I feel comfortable doing this, but you can TEMPORARLY jump out the air flow switch and see if it lights. If it does, test it over and over to confirm the air flow switch is the culprit.
There are just a few items in the safety string that must be made prior to lighting.
__________________
2018 Dodge RAM 2500 / Cummins 6.7 Turbo Diesel
2018 White Hawk 28RL
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12-15-2018, 03:16 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: El Dorado
Posts: 67
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Are you referring to what they call the sail switch that hangs on the side of the motor?
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12-15-2018, 03:19 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: El Dorado
Posts: 67
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The air flow is excellent as far as i can tell when it works it heats the house very quickly.
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12-15-2018, 03:22 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Grafton
Posts: 317
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Has anyone jumped the T-stat wires or just twisted them together for a quick check? I have seen T-stats go bad and mimic a host of issues. Just take the two heating wires for the T-stat and join them together for a quick test.
__________________
2017 Jayco 27.5 RLTS
2016 Ford F-350 crew cab Lariat. 6.2 liter
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12-15-2018, 03:25 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Tucson
Posts: 661
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Yes the air flow switch is the sail switch usually located on the side of the blower housing. Make sure you have at least 10.5 VDC.
__________________
2018 Dodge RAM 2500 / Cummins 6.7 Turbo Diesel
2018 White Hawk 28RL
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12-15-2018, 03:26 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: El Dorado
Posts: 67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GraftonGuns
Has anyone jumped the T-stat wires or just twisted them together for a quick check? I have seen T-stats go bad and mimic a host of issues. Just take the two heating wires for the T-stat and join them together for a quick test.
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yes thanks that has been done T-state is good and surprisingly accurate
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12-15-2018, 03:28 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: El Dorado
Posts: 67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott_Trailer_Newbe
Yes the air flow switch is the sail switch usually located on the side of the blower housing. Make sure you have at least 10.5 VDC.
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Very good will do can they get bent and as for by pass i can just jumper the 2 wires together?? Temporarily of-course.
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12-15-2018, 03:32 PM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: El Dorado
Posts: 67
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Thanks
Thanks to everyone I'll get back with a report my unit must be removed from the inside so it takes a few.
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12-15-2018, 03:32 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Tucson
Posts: 661
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GraftonGuns
Has anyone jumped the T-stat wires or just twisted them together for a quick check? I have seen T-stats go bad and mimic a host of issues. Just take the two heating wires for the T-stat and join them together for a quick test.
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He’s saying the blower runs as far as I understand, so the T-Stat is closed for heat.
__________________
2018 Dodge RAM 2500 / Cummins 6.7 Turbo Diesel
2018 White Hawk 28RL
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12-15-2018, 03:35 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Tucson
Posts: 661
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArkansasFeather17
Very good will do can they get bent and as for by pass i can just jumper the 2 wires together?? Temporarily of-course.
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You can jump them together, but you need to be very careful, insuring the blower is running each time you attempt to lite the furnace. The safety string only has two devices. The limit switch and sail switch.
__________________
2018 Dodge RAM 2500 / Cummins 6.7 Turbo Diesel
2018 White Hawk 28RL
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12-15-2018, 03:40 PM
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#16
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Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: El Dorado
Posts: 67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott_Trailer_Newbe
You can jump them together, but you need to be very careful, insuring the blower is running each time you attempt to lite the furnace. The safety string only has two devices. The limit switch and sail switch.
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Understood
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12-15-2018, 08:24 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Rock Island
Posts: 1,073
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Did you try connecting it directly to portable propane tank while in the RV?
Wondering if there is an issue on the factory propane line, maybe a kink somewhere.
__________________
2017 Eagle 291RSTS
2017 Chevy Silverado Duramax 2500
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12-15-2018, 09:22 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Missouri City, The Republic of Texas
Posts: 5,063
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GHen
Did you try connecting it directly to portable propane tank while in the RV?
Wondering if there is an issue on the factory propane line, maybe a kink somewhere.
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I was thinking gas flow as well. If you want to test with a portable tank remember you will need a pressure regulator, don’t connect the tank without it. Another possibility is the burn chamber. Critters love to nest there (insects) and that can prevent the furnace from firing. Try cleaning it out with compressed air or a dryer vent cleaning tool. YouTube will have videos related to flame color, which indicates air and gas flows. There is also a circuit board that could have an intermittent fault.
__________________
Cheers,
T_
2013 F-350 CC SB 2WD 6.7PS
2013 Eagle Premier 351 RLTS
-SOLD- 2012 X23B
-SOLD- 2003 Ford Expedition 5.4, Bilstein shocks
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12-16-2018, 06:16 AM
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#19
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 74
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I recently had similar issues with my furnace. It turned out to be a fried board due to water getting into compartment and a sail switch that was slightly bent. The board I replaced and relocated to a weatherproof area. The sail switch I just bent back to its proper position. I had an ice issue last year that caused all this damage.
__________________
2015 Greyhawk 31FS
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12-16-2018, 04:01 PM
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#20
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Eldon
Posts: 1
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My 2018 does the same thing. Now the water heater sounds lime the flame is flickering off and on when it's running. Very unhappy
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