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Old 05-11-2018, 05:01 PM   #1
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Generater size queston

I have a 2010 Jayfeather Sport 226. The AC appears to be Coleman Mach?

I have it plugged in to house power, using a HD 100ft extension cord. Out of curiosity the other day I tried the AC (Really did not expect that it would work), lo and behold the AC came on blowing cold air, no problem with the 20 amp household circuit.

Anyone have any idea what Size Generator, would provide equivalent power?

I am thinking I may not need as much as I was originally thinking.

Thanks.
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Old 05-11-2018, 08:05 PM   #2
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Unfortunately, there's no definitive way to accurately determine the smallest wattage generator that will work with a given RV a/c unit. There are so many variables.

Which specific model Coleman-Mach do you have? You can look up the starting current (LRA) and running current requirements at Airxcel | AC, Heating & Appliances for Industrial and Personal Use. That's a start.
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Old 05-11-2018, 09:29 PM   #3
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jeffmcpa, Normally you will need a generator larger than 2000 watts to handle the initial surge of the compressor which is about 45 to 50 amps. Once started a 2000 watt generator will run it. Many of us have two 2000 watt generators hooked in parallel. But, you can install an EasyStart unit by Micro-Air that will allow you to start and run 13.5kw or 15kw AC with just one 2000 watt generator. I just installed one on my Coleman Mach 3 13.5kw AC and it starts right up with the Honda eu2000i running on Eco. I highly recommend it.
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Old 05-12-2018, 06:04 AM   #4
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The formula is Power (watts) equals current (amps) times voltage or P = I x E. So a 30 amp trailer would need 3600 Watts to run everything you would expect from a 30 amp shore power outlet. Add 10 to 15 percent cushion and you’re right around a 4000 watt generator. Can you get by with less, sure, but you could possible trip the breaker on the generator. My 15K BTU Coleman Mach A/C pulls around 18 amps so a 2200 watt generator would run my A/C but nothing else. As suggested, accurately calculate your A/Cs power consumption is the start. You might also take the plastic cover off the AC on the roof or inside and look for a label listing power usage. Use the formula to figure out the watts if the label list usage in current.

Also be aware of voltage drop using an extension cord. While your running the AC with that extension cord, read the actual voltage in the camper. Dipping below 110VAC at the camper is a concern. We’ll use my AC as an example, the unit needs 2160 watts so that is 18 amps at 120 VAC. Now let’s say I run my AC using an extension cord hooked up the the camper and the voltage in the camper drops to 100 VAC due to line loss with the extension cord. That same AC that uses 2160 watts is now drawing 21.6 amps at 100 VAC verses 18 amps at 120 VAC. This is why a brown out destroys electrical devices, voltage drops, current increases. Just be aware of this.
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Old 05-12-2018, 06:39 AM   #5
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And also keep in mind that while your air conditioner is running, you likely will want to use other AC powered devices while enjoying the cool breeze. I think it's wise and more realistic to leave a bit of extra watts available for extra AC power draw. Also keep in mind that available power decreases with altitude, so if you camp in the mountains a barely adequate generator at sea level will not be adequate up there. I bought a 3400W because I have a 15K BTU air conditioner, have dual 6V batteries to charge, we use our microwave, and I know I'm covered (not all running at the same time of course).
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Old 05-12-2018, 06:58 AM   #6
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Remember the hidden loads as well. These are loads not readily apparent such as your converter that is supplying 12 volts to the lights and also charging the batteries. If the batteries are low from storage the converter can be using lots of current trying to charge them back up.

When shopping for a generator, be very careful and read. Some will be labeled as 3500 watt then in small print they will say something like 2800 or 3000 watt continuous and 3500 watt surge. So make sure the continuous is what meets your needs.

Myself, I went with a 3500/4000 watt genny. That is 3500 cont. with a 4000 watt surge/start. It seems to be doing great and is very fuel efficient.

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Old 05-12-2018, 07:28 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffmcpa View Post
I have a 2010 Jayfeather Sport 226. The AC appears to be Coleman Mach?

I have it plugged in to house power, using a HD 100ft extension cord. Out of curiosity the other day I tried the AC (Really did not expect that it would work), lo and behold the AC came on blowing cold air, no problem with the 20 amp household circuit.

Anyone have any idea what Size Generator, would provide equivalent power?

I am thinking I may not need as much as I was originally thinking.

Thanks.
Wasn't going to comment on this because I swore off generator threads last year. BUT since members have already started telling you how to build the clock, I decided to make an exception. The answer to your question is not all that straight forward and there are many different opinions. Use the search function and it will take you to 20 or 30 recent threads on the subject. Many of them are repeats of others just as this one will become.

My only additional input would be, don't cheap out as you get what you pay for and the cheaper you go the more your neighbors will hate you. One more thing, the keyboard may already be buzzing about some new Sale on Champions.

Enjoy your afternoon of reading.
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Old 05-12-2018, 08:47 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Bassdogs View Post
Wasn't going to comment on this because I swore off generator threads last year. BUT since members have already started telling you how to build the clock, I decided to make an exception. The answer to your question is not all that straight forward and there are many different opinions. Use the search function and it will take you to 20 or 30 recent threads on the subject. Many of them are repeats of others just as this one will become.

My only additional input would be, don't cheap out as you get what you pay for and the cheaper you go the more your neighbors will hate you. One more thing, the keyboard may already be buzzing about some new Sale on Champions.

Enjoy your afternoon of reading.
x1. Ditto. These generator threads do tend to go off the deep end don't they. Ah, what the heck, the flood gates have opened. I'll chime in with my two cents for what it's worth---lol!!

Just about any 2000 watt or larger generator will handle the running/continuous current load for most 13.5k and 15.0k BTU RV a/c units.

However, as many have found out the hard way, continuous/running current does not determine whether a given generator will start/run an RV a/c unit---it's the inrush current requirement of the RV a/c unit (specified by the LRA or locked rotor amp rating), and the inrush current capability of the generator, together, that determine whether a generator will sucessfully start (and run) an RV a/c unit.

The LRA for RV a/c units are specified by the RV a/c manufacturers; unfortunately, the inrush capability for generators are not. So, there you have it. Since the average consumer has no way of determining the realworld inrush current capability of a generator it's all a guessing game.

As for the Micro-Air Easy Start, yes, it's a game-changer. I've installed a few of these units---they absolutely work. Most 13.5k and 15.0k BTU RV a/c units have LRA's that range from 50-70 amps. An Micro-Air Easy Start will typically reduce this inrush (starting) current down to 25-35 amps, low enough that most 2000 watt generators, which typically only produce 40-50 amps of inrush current, can easily start a 13.5k BTU RV a/c unit.

For those who are not into a Micro-Air Easy Start for cost or installation reasons, in my opinion there's only one inverter generator on the market that provides all of the following: 1) track record of reliability, 2) reasonable sound level, 3) reasonable cost, 4) outstanding warranty support---arguably the best in the industry, and 5) massive amounts of inrush current capability---the Champion 3100/3400/3500 series of inverter generators. There are very few RV a/c units they cannot start/run. Yes, the Honda EU2000i (paralleled) and EU3000iS are typically quieter, extremely reliable . . . unfortunately, they don't have the inrush capability of the Champion 3xxx inverter generators . . . not to mention they cost 2-3 times more.

Yes, many options, choices, things to consider, and . . . another opinion--lol!!
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Old 05-12-2018, 09:30 AM   #9
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Thanks everyone
Been looking at this

Champion-DUAL-FUEL-2800wt-Running--3100wt-Peak-Digital-Inverter-Generator

Based on comments I think it will do the job, and carried at Costco - have their great return policy if there are problems

thanks again
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Old 05-12-2018, 09:33 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKGperson View Post
jeffmcpa, Normally you will need a generator larger than 2000 watts to handle the initial surge of the compressor which is about 45 to 50 amps. Once started a 2000 watt generator will run it. Many of us have two 2000 watt generators hooked in parallel. But, you can install an EasyStart unit by Micro-Air that will allow you to start and run 13.5kw or 15kw AC with just one 2000 watt generator. I just installed one on my Coleman Mach 3 13.5kw AC and it starts right up with the Honda eu2000i running on Eco. I highly recommend it.
I have a Micro-Air and YES, Like AKGperson says..... I VERY HIGHLY RECOMMEND IT! Well worth the money. I am able to run my A/C on (1) 2000 watt Yamaha generator running in ecomony mode as well. Sure saves a lot of gas.
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Old 05-12-2018, 09:53 AM   #11
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For an old guy like me, the 2000W class (at about 50 pounds) is the max that I want to handle. The 3000w category is just too heavy to move around.

So a Max-Air and a high quality 2000W (Honda or Yamaha) is the way I would go.
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Old 05-12-2018, 09:56 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by jeffmcpa View Post
Thanks everyone
Been looking at this

Champion-DUAL-FUEL-2800wt-Running--3100wt-Peak-Digital-Inverter-Generator

Based on comments I think it will do the job, and carried at Costco - have their great return policy if there are problems

thanks again
Some have reported problems starting their RV a/c units with the Champion 3100 Dual-Fuel model when running on propane. Power output is reduced when running on propane (vs. gas). If you want to reduce the chance of any RV a/c starting problems while running on propane, I'd suggest looking at the higher-powered 3400/3500 watt Dual-Fuel versions.
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