Going out on a limb.....

[Cavie]

Originally Posted by Spower

I have no access to the valve, it is enclosed underneath

the valve will be very close to the exposed end of the drain pipe. No more than 3' from the pull handle. You can see where the plastic is attached to the frame. The tank is between the frame rails.

[Screwby]

Well there has to be access to behind that wet bay. Either from behind by crawling into the basement area (that’s how mine is, it’s by the water heater and furnace) somewhere or by unscrewing that panel and gaining access that way. You could always loosen the nut that’s holding the rod to that panel plate and see if you can twist, wiggle, shake that rod and work something loose?

[Spower]

Originally Posted by Screwby

Well there has to be access to behind that wet bay. Either from behind by crawling into the basement area (that’s how mine is, it’s by the water heater and furnace) somewhere or by unscrewing that panel and gaining access that way. You could always loosen the nut that’s holding the rod to that panel plate and see if you can twist, wiggle, shake that rod and work something loose?

Yes I took the side panel off and have access behind the handles, im going to see if i can give that rod a little twist to break it free. Other than that I don't know.

[Screwby]

Rooting for you man
Not anywhere near Indiana are you lol?

[norty1]

Knowing where the valves are will help you get the coroplast down if you ever have to access it. I have removed enough of mine numerous times to get my hands, head and a light in there.

Just a bunch of square head screws that can easily be removed with a #2 Robertson bit and a screw gun. You may not even have to cut it.

[Colorado]

Originally Posted by Spower

the more I think about it the more I think its just the rod, everything is new and its only shower water in the tank. I would think if the issue was with the valve (gate) itself I would still have some play at the handle. So when I get up, been worried about it all night, I will see if i can somehow get that rod to move.
Its the middle handle....

The picture helps.

Do the handles tighten to prevent them from vibrating loose?

Try loosing the retainer nut and see if that helps. Also spray a DRY LUBRICANT behind the nut. The lubricant will follow the rod down and allow it to slide smoother through the sleeve.

With the retainer nut still loose...Use a small block of wood and a claw hammer, If you have a STRAIGHT PRY BAR I would use that instead of a claw hammer because it will lift straight up, now put the block of wood against the side put the claw hammer on the block of wood and hook to the rod underneath the handle. GENTLY pry the handle up, see if the added leverage will get it to move.

IF you get to move, push the rod back in, GENTLY TAPPING IT in if needed. If you get lucky and the rod starts to move freely great, If not use the claw hammer and block of wood to create leverage once again to pull on that rod.


Good luck!

[Spower]

Originally Posted by Screwby

Rooting for you man
Not anywhere near Indiana are you lol?

No I'm not lol!

So I was right! It was the rod. Put some pliers around it twisted a little and it came right out!! What a freakin relief!!

I'm in a beautiful place here and now I can enjoy it, not to mention take a shower too!

Thanks for all your input, ideas!!

[Spower]

Problem solved! See post above this one.

Thanks everybody!!!

Happy trails!

[Screwby]

Nice work! Now enjoy the spot and bask in the glow of victory

[Spower]

Originally Posted by Screwby

Nice work! Now enjoy the spot and bask in the glow of victory

For sure!!

[sturgissteele]

Woohoo!!

[robert9999]

Spray silicon lube on all drain valves, cables, handles & don't use wd40 on any rubber seals. it will dry them out & harden them up making it harder to operate.

[Wsw]

Brand new jayco 334rlok. My right gray water valve is so hard to open the metal panel they are screwed to bulges out when I pull it to open.

Figure something I will have to deal with eventually with some silicone spray. Or try to get some cable grease into it somehow.

[mikehoots]

Originally Posted by Spower

I don't know, but I had one foot up there and was pulling pretty good, nothing. I will try again tomorrow and maybe see if I can get in the underbelly at all. If not I'm screwed.

Isn't your under belly corrigate plastic. If so I had a water leak cut it open with my razor knife, fixed the leak and used 4 inch waterproof gorilla tape to close it back up worked great. I have run it in the rain the tape is holding.

[RAurand]

Originally Posted by Big1

Is it possible that you can shoot some WD-40 around the seal or some kind of lubricate and then try to work it out, you might have to let is set for a few minutes first and try it again?

If it is a rubber seal, I doubt that WD-40 is very good for a rubber seal. I have seen WD-40 eat rubber!

[beachcommander]

try twisting the handle as you pull it, sometimes mine sticks but if i twist it it works

[stvaughn12]

I had the same issue with my 2020 272RBOK. It’s a rear bathroom and the pull handles are at the front of the trailer which means that the cables are almost 30 feet long. I dropped the belly and removed the cables and they were CORRODED. This is a brand new trailer built to order, less than one month old. I tried cleaning and lubricating but they were still difficult to pull so I installed Drainmaster electric valves and couldn’t be happier. I put black and gray switches outside and extra gray switches inside. Now when my tiny little shower tank fills up I don’t have to go outside to dump it. Best mod I ever made.

[JJaxon]

As others mentioned, you'll have to get access through the underbelly to the valve, then remove it to find out why its stuck, or, go to your dealer and let them do it. I did mine 3 weeks ago. I took the screws out down the edge to see where the valve was located. Then cut the coroplast inward 3 feet, then fwd 4ft to allow the underbelly and valve to be exposed. Then I removed my valve, it wouldn't close. The reason was the pipe glue was overdone and filled the groove the valve blade traveled through at the factory install. Mine was gray valve and stuck open, but if your installer used too much glue with the handle closed, it would bond yours stuck closed. A new valve is the easiest fix. Very basic tools and a few hours, then close it up. I cleaned mine and taped it with 4" mobile home underbelly tape, from amazon. Sticks real good.

[alwalk63]

Originally Posted by Cavie

open up the chloroplast under the valve location. Mark out a square 2' x 2'. Cut out 3 sides leaving the front leading side intact to work as a hinge. Access the valve thru this flap. Get the valve working and tape up the flap with gorilla tape.

I would add a few zip ties like stitches.

[alwalk63]

I would also have been thanking the stars it was the grey tank and not the black tank. With my luck I would have got it open with horrendous results.