Gutter Rail Sealant

[tazzman1961]

There is a bead of sealant or putty squeeze out on the top of my gutters (see picture). There are some places it's missing. So, my thought is to remove this old bead of whatever it is and put a clean bead of Dicor no sag lap sealant on all the gutter top. It appears this bead keeps water from going between the gutter rail and the membrane. There is no water intrusion, but I would like to get it fixed as part of my seal maintenance. Anyone see a problem with doing that?

Secondly, i found my gutter is separated at back 1/4 in for about 16 in and then just barely for about another 6ft on awning side just behind the awning. It is pulling away from the bottom, top is secure and just needs new seal bead as i mentioned about.
From my research it just appears I need to pull the plastic trim out of rail (any suggestions on removing trim so I can reuse it), remove loose screws, clean underside of gutter between rail and rv, install new screws, larger if needed (seal screws during installation). I plan to remove the loose screws one at a time starting with small gap area and work my way back to large gap. I was going to use my dicor no sag lap sealant and screw down.
It looks like the previous owner tried to seal the gap rather than deal with the problem. I am guessing the awning pulled the screws loose/out. And I don't plan to seal long bottom like previous owner. I think that is a mistake.
Any thoughts on this method.
Thank you for your tiime
Dean

[muckinfuss]

Personally, I wouldn't place Dicor into that location. Properly installed sealant would be smoothed if it had been used to top a seam so no water would be trapped in the nooks and crannies. Is the other side suffering the same workmanship? FYI, if silicone is the material, more silicone isn't going to help since it won't stick to itself.

On my White Hawk, no such squeeze out or 'topcoating' of sealant. The gutter is held in place with screws at 12-16 inch spacing with a thin line of sealant between the membrane and the gutter that runs the center line of the gutter and no squeeze out. It is not silicone, based on my experience, I'd say it's a urethane sealant like Lexel. If it was my trailer with your problem, I'd gently remove, refurbish, and do it over. The trim that snaps into the gutter to cover the screws softens and will eventually pop from the track. For that I pulled the trim from the track (which you'll have to do if you're loosening the gutter track anyway) without separating the end joints. I then put small dabs (ballpoint pen clicker diameter) of Loctite Marine Sealant at the top groove of the track at 16 inch spacing and snap the trim back into place. It's waterproof and holds everything together because if that trim loosens and bellows away from the track, it usually does so from the top, which in turn fills up with tree junk and 'stuff' creating a small dam, and rusting screws, which is what you don't want. Good Luck.

[tazzman1961]

muckinfuss - The bead on top of gutter is not silicone, it's some kind of caulking as I was able to peel off a loose piece. I am pretty sure the gutters came from dealer when purchased, but you are right whomever did a **** job.
My RV does not move over the road so not worried about the trim popping off and it all looks great. My question is how to you get the trim to pop off the rail without damaging it? The very end on where i need to pull it off has a little sealant on it, i will remove the seal and use something smooth and round to try and lift it out of the rail and peel it back several feet to get the screws replaced. How did you pop it off in the middle of the rail?
Thanks for the help
Dean

[muckinfuss]

I used a plastic trim tool for removing auto trim. They're cheap, different sizes, I used a small putty knife shape, and available at Autozone etc. I wasn't really clear I guess, I don't recommend you remove the trim from either end of the gutter since it wraps under the gutter and has quite a seal over it and a screw going through. Once you have the trim falling away from the gutter, I'd just run a few extra screws into the track where you want to pull it tight to the sidewall. My trailer doesn't go down the highway either, the sun will do its thing softening the trim with enough exposure.

[Rustic Eagle]

Here's a couple JOF threads (w/pics) on the same subject that may also be helpful:

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...ant-96077.html

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...ter-74457.html

Bob

[travelingjw]

I have a Whitehawk and after trying multiple sealants, including all those "recommended." I finally settled on Quad. I warmed the Quad by placing it in the sun, and it applied easily. After 2 years, it has worked great.

[ggilbert]

same thing happened with my camper. had to use larger screws.
trim is reusable.

I believe butyl tape is used behind the guttering. just like under skylights, vents, and windows.

[tazzman1961]

Fixed the gutter without too much problem and turned out great. I may have screwed myself on the seal i used between gutter and roof. I used Dicor 351Csw-1 White non sag Cap Sealant thinking i was using non sag Lap sealant. Do you think I will have a problem since it's not as flexible?
Thanks
Dean

[GarlicDude]

Following

[bheisser]

isn't that Butyl tape behind the trim?