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Old 10-20-2015, 09:47 PM   #11
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Not sure what the 14's had, but you can't even get bug screens for the newer Atwood yet. Last I checked anyway. Nothing Camco has matches the appearance of this one. Will be interested to see if it's the same one. 1 year and 6000 miles and water hasn't ever got past that black plastic piece I referred to earlier, seen when you remove the outer chrome piece. Almost like it's designed to catch the water and let it run out. If nobody's posted a picture of the one like I have by the time I get home from offshore, I'll post one.
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Old 10-20-2015, 10:07 PM   #12
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Here's a picture of what I have. Atwood always puts the "A" emblem where it can be read in the installed position. As you can see on this one, it can be installed one of 2 ways. In this picture, the upper louvers (intake), appear like a water catch all. It can / does get in, but after looking behind that piece, you'll see that water can't get anywhere but in a catch area that dumps out.

Here's a link where I found it:
NEW RV Furnace Atwood 35,000 BTU AFM Series AFMD35 12V Propane/LP AFMD35121_A | Other | RV, Trailer & Camper Parts - Zeppy.io
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Furnace.JPG  
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Old 10-21-2015, 02:03 PM   #13
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After i got home yesterday i was able to do a little digging. Here is what i did and pictures to show. Hopefully someone here will be able to help me out.

Here is my thermostat, and the exhaust on the outside of the trailer. I tried to take a picture inside the exhaust pipe where the water is sitting and it didnt turn out well.

Inside the trailer i opened the top compartment (this is the first i have opened either of these compartments) that housed the water heater. Nothing in here was wet or damp.

I opened the lower compartment that the furnace is in. No water visible at first.
Once i got to the back i discovered standing water on the top on the furnace. Which was a slow slow drop from both the hot and cold outdoor shower lines. Tightened them up and that stopped right away.


Then i ran the flush valve for awhile to see about any leaking there and nothing while running, until i turned it off it started to drop from the black box on the flush value lines??????


All in all so far, the exhaust still has water in it, and the when starting the furnace, the fan comes on and runs, and then the furnace ignites runs for a few seconds and then stops. starts a few times and then stops. Is it starving for air and choking? Any ideas?
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Old 10-21-2015, 02:13 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJohnD View Post
Here's a picture of what I have. Atwood always puts the "A" emblem where it can be read in the installed position. As you can see on this one, it can be installed one of 2 ways. In this picture, the upper louvers (intake), appear like a water catch all. It can / does get in, but after looking behind that piece, you'll see that water can't get anywhere but in a catch area that dumps out.

Here's a link where I found it:
NEW RV Furnace Atwood 35,000 BTU AFM Series AFMD35 12V Propane/LP AFMD35121_A | Other | RV, Trailer & Camper Parts - Zeppy.io
This is the correct system. I did not remove the outside exhaust cover yet, as i wanted to check everything else out first before taking that off and then having to re caulk it all. But looks like ill be taking off this cover tonight.
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Old 10-21-2015, 02:46 PM   #15
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No need to recaulk around the chrome piece. You'll see when you pull it out. The black plastic is sealed to the side with butyl, vent cover just screws to that and doesn't need to be sealed. Yours is installed correctly per manufacturer (Atwood). Might have to wiggle the vent piece a little to get it out, as you're pulling part of the exhaust tubing out too. You'll see when it's out, that water can't do much more than sit in there. Not going to hurt anything. If it'll ever run correctly, it'll dry out in short order. Outside of a regulator issue, low propane, I'm not sure why it's cycling why it does. I'm guessing your stove operates fine, and also the AC functions as it's supposed to?


On the black flush, the anti siphon valves are famous for leaking. Sometimes they'll squirt water when you first turn them on, sometimes they'll stick and spray water everywhere. I've gotten hammered on for what I do, but it's proven and works fine. I delete them completely, and install an anti-siphon valve at the inlet, and only use a dedicated water hose for this task. Just cut the lines, take the valve out and reconnect with a pex connector, or whatever is needed in your case. You can get the anti-siphon / back flow valves at HD or lowes. Mine was mounted inside the wall behind the shower. Great place to put one huh. If I wasn't so diligent in taking things apart right off the lot, I'd have major problems. I've had them leak in walls and everything (Every one I've owned), so I get rid of them.
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Old 10-21-2015, 02:56 PM   #16
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I am less concerned about the water being in the pipe. I'm more concerned about how it got there and where else in there it is. Since it's not been in the weather ever, it has to be the waterline leaking.
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Old 10-21-2015, 06:26 PM   #17
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Just curious, is this the first time you've tried to run the furnace since new? Still sounds like air in the lines, but still not for sure. Shouldn't be since I'm sure you've run the stove and fridge on propane. How many times have you tried a complete off, back on cycle?


Might look at replacing that thermostat with a digital to reduce the temp span. Though you might not need one, they sure are more accurate.
https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Mach-...ck-p/63868.htm
I paid $66 shipped to me, I think. It's a wire for wire easy swap.


Also just noticed, they didn't even mount that anti-siphon valve correctly in your rig. That square mushroom top is supposed to be up (Part closest to the camera). No wonder you're getting water dripping from it sometimes. When the water is turned on, the plunger is pushed up towards the vent top closing it off and directing water to the flush nozzle in the tank. When off, the plunger drops (spring loaded I think) and allows the lines to drain towards the tank. Problem is, sometimes the plunger doesn't seat good, thus the leak. They're supposed to be mounted at the same elevation as the top of the toilet or higher. Again though, ditch it, connect that pex to the tubing with the pex fitting, and be done with that problem.
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Old 10-21-2015, 07:41 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamakinme View Post
After i got home yesterday i was able to do a little digging. Here is what i did and pictures to show. Hopefully someone here will be able to help me out.

Here is my thermostat, and the exhaust on the outside of the trailer. I tried to take a picture inside the exhaust pipe where the water is sitting and it didnt turn out well.

Inside the trailer i opened the top compartment (this is the first i have opened either of these compartments) that housed the water heater. Nothing in here was wet or damp.

I opened the lower compartment that the furnace is in. No water visible at first.
Once i got to the back i discovered standing water on the top on the furnace. Which was a slow slow drop from both the hot and cold outdoor shower lines. Tightened them up and that stopped right away.


Then i ran the flush valve for awhile to see about any leaking there and nothing while running, until i turned it off it started to drop from the black box on the flush value lines??????


All in all so far, the exhaust still has water in it, and the when starting the furnace, the fan comes on and runs, and then the furnace ignites runs for a few seconds and then stops. starts a few times and then stops. Is it starving for air and choking? Any ideas?
Can anyone see these pictures? I only see a big minus sign.
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Old 10-21-2015, 07:58 PM   #19
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I can not see them on my phone, but they work from my computer
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Old 10-21-2015, 08:00 PM   #20
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Home, and opened up the exhaust cover, and the entire bottom of the heater is an inch deep in water. I vacuumed it out. And used the furnace fan to blow more forward. I think it is dry. Won't ignite right now when turning it on. I hope it didn't ruin something.
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