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04-08-2018, 03:14 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Cary
Posts: 33
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HELP - Electrical problem 2018 Eagle 330RLTS!
First weekend using the new out new trailer! Was using the Fireplace for the first day no problem.. Middle of the second day, the fireplace just stopped working...
After some trouble shooting, found that the outlet dedicated to the fireplace is DEAD!
Also found that the inverter for the Residential Refrigerator was running on battery! (see photo
Everything else seams to be working, Both A/C units, Refrigerator is running. Heat works, awings work.
I had the camp ground come out and verify that the 50A service was working correctly, both legs read 120, and the lights on the cable /plug (both ends) are on showing power!
HELP!
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04-08-2018, 08:53 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: SW
Posts: 513
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Have you checked all the 120 vac breakers? I'd reset all of them just to be sure none of them are open/off.
Since it appears you may have lost 120 vac power to your LED fireplace and the 120 vac "primary" power to the frig about the same time, it's possible both of these are on the same breaker. If this is the case, it might explain why the breaker opened.
Having (the fireplace and frig) both on the same breaker is probably not a good idea because the current for both the LED fireplace and frig could potentially exceed 15 amps when both are on at the same time. This is assuming they're both on a 15 amp breaker, of course. If they're on a 20 amp, then it should be sufficient.
Note: Yes, your frig is still operating, but it appears 120 vac power is being provided by the inverter. The frig typically does not revert to the inverter for power unless the primary 120 vac power source is missing at the frig.
Of course, this is all conjecture on my part. Without further info kinda shootin' in the dark here--lol!
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04-08-2018, 09:03 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Cary
Posts: 33
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I opened and closed every breaker, inside and out.
I did not design the power distribution for the RV, but I would hope Jayco took that into consideration..
Thanks!
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04-08-2018, 09:11 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Palmetto
Posts: 1,057
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Mine is 6 months old and when I was installing the ems I found one very loose neutral and one snug but not tight ground in my main breaker box.
__________________
2017 Jayco 377rlbh (sold)
2021 Grand Design 351MR
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04-08-2018, 09:14 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Tucson
Posts: 127
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You might also check to see if a GFI receptacle is in the circuit with the refrigerator and/or the fireplace unit. These GFI receptacles are sometimes hooked up in a daisy chain manner and when the GFI receptacle trips, then the next receptacle in line is shut-off and is without power. When a GFI receptacle trips out, the circuit breaker, whether a 15A or 20A, for that circuit does not necessarily get tripped.
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04-08-2018, 09:46 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: SW
Posts: 513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makingmagick
I opened and closed every breaker, inside and out.
I did not design the power distribution for the RV, but I would hope Jayco took that into consideration..
Thanks!
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Yes, most of the time manufacturers do a decent job of wiring the power distribution panels. But, unfortunately, you can't go into a problem like this assuming they did. They've been known to make mistakes.
I find it interesting you appear to have lost power to the LED fireplace and the primary 120 vac power to the frig about the same time. This may or may not be related. You could have a defective breaker. You'll need a voltmeter/ohmmeter to verify this.
And, yes, as ranchoinvacas stated, the primary GFCI breaker (located on one of the GFCI outlets) could have tripped. However, it would seem unusual to plug a very high current device like an LED fireplace into an GFCI outlet. Typically GFCI outlets are reserved for kitchen countertop, bathroom, or outside outlets. If the fireplace is, indeed, plugged into a GFCI outlet it would leave very little power for anything else on the GFCI circuit.
Good luck!
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04-08-2018, 10:19 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Tucson
Posts: 127
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To echo the post of CampNow, the Norcold refrigerator in my Jayco is indeed served or powered by a factory installed GFCI receptacle. The most common problem with this type of receptacle is usually a loose connection in the outlet itself. The outlet can be reset by hand and will often function as expected until...it doesn't. Then it can be reset again etc. Eventually the outlet will no longer stay in the reset position due to an inherent internal weakness caused by the heat generated by the original loose connection. This loose connection is often a loose screw where the ground wire connects. However, imported inexpensive GFCI or "GFI" (old school name) receptacles are sometimes found to be "weak" from the factory even when new. This post of mine is based solely on my own experience, having worked in mobile home factories some 40 years ago.
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04-08-2018, 10:29 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: SW
Posts: 513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ranchosinvacas
To echo the post of CampNow, the Norcold refrigerator in my Jayco is indeed served or powered by a factory installed GFCI receptacle. The most common problem with this type of receptacle is usually a loose connection in the outlet itself. The outlet can be reset by hand and will often function as expected until...it doesn't. Then it can be reset again etc. Eventually the outlet will no longer stay in the reset position due to an inherent internal weakness caused by the heat generated by the original loose connection. This loose connection is often a loose screw where the ground wire connects. However, imported inexpensive GFCI or "GFI" (old school name) receptacles are sometimes found to be "weak" from the factory even when new. This post of mine is based solely on my own experience, having worked in mobile home factories some 40 years ago.
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The OP's primary problem is the loss of power to the LED fireplace. These units typically draw 10-15 amps. Wouldn't you agree it would be unusual to use an GFCI outlet for such a permanently installed, high current device? These fireplaces are not typically located in GFCI designated areas like a kitchen countertop, bathroom, or outside outlet. Secondly, it would leave little, if any, current remaining for other devices on the GFCI circuit while the fireplace is operational---a significant design flaw IMO.
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04-08-2018, 11:05 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Tucson
Posts: 127
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Some of the placement of GFCI receptacles in the RV industry are just plain curious. Since I own a 16ft., 145Rb Jayco, which is small, I have a proportionally small under counter refrigerator. The 120 volt AC GFCI receptacle used by my refrigerator is accessible only from the outside of the TT behind the exterior grill cover near floor level.
My understanding of the function of a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter...a GFCI is to Interrupt a Circuit with a Faulty Ground. I am more than willing to be mistaken, but I don't think a GFCI unit is designed to provide protection from over-current draw. The OP indicated that breakers and fuses are functioning correctly, so...excessive current draw would be unlikely. But...I've been wrong before!
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04-08-2018, 11:33 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: SW
Posts: 513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ranchosinvacas
Some of the placement of GFCI receptacles in the RV industry are just plain curious. Since I own a 16ft., 145Rb Jayco, which is small, I have a proportionally small under counter refrigerator. The 120 volt AC GFCI receptacle used by my refrigerator is accessible only from the outside of the TT behind the exterior grill cover near floor level.
My understanding of the function of a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter...a GFCI is to Interrupt a Circuit with a Faulty Ground. I am more than willing to be mistaken, but I don't think a GFCI unit is designed to provide protection from over-current draw. The OP indicated that breakers and fuses are functioning correctly, so...excessive current draw would be unlikely. But...I've been wrong before!
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I believe you're continuing to misunderstand my point. I never questioned the function or purpose of a GFCI, or claimed that a GFCI provided over-current protection.
Maybe it would be helpful to you if I restated my premise in the form of a question:
Why would a permanently installed, 10-15 amp LED fireplace require GFCI protection??
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04-08-2018, 11:59 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Tucson
Posts: 127
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Yes, I see your point. I suspect that the fireplace does not require a GFCI unit, but that it is simply daisy chained in line in a circuit that likely includes a receptacle in some location in the TT that is required to have a GFCI. This would be due to the possibility of of contact exterior or interior moisture. Human contact with electrical power in wet locations are a cause for a direct ground fault, hence the use of GFCI's at potentially wet locations. "Perhaps", the OP should look for a GFCI receptacle that could either need to be re-set or replaced if found to be the problem or...?
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04-09-2018, 04:35 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Decatur
Posts: 2,487
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Not sure how your unit is set up but our 330 RSTS, the fridge runs on converter,and the tv over the fire place runs on converter, the fire place is plugged in behind the TV, and there a gfi back there also, we found the Gfi to have loose wires,there must have been a issue before we picked it up At RV one because the plug was loose and looked like some one had pulled the trim box loose,anyway the fire place power location on ours is behind the tv and over the fireplace.. sorry for the long post ..
__________________
Roy&Joyce
Decatur Al.
Jayco 2022 27RB WhiteHawk
Jayco 330RSTS Gone
Jayco G2 bunkhouse Gone
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04-09-2018, 05:04 AM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Cary
Posts: 33
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Thanks!
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04-09-2018, 05:08 AM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Cary
Posts: 33
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Thanks it is a single outlet plug located being the TV, but no GFI.. Don't think that would result in the inverter not seeing ac power.. But could be in the breaker box..
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04-10-2018, 08:40 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: St.Paul
Posts: 163
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Have you tried seeing how many volts are comming out of outlet? If your meter says 60 start searching for an open neutral. I have seen junction boxes where the factory wires multiple neutrals together and have one slip out.
Here is a picture of one I have found. This junction box was located behind the basement wall. Don't remember the model. Customer had three outlets that were not working.
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04-10-2018, 09:09 AM
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#16
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Cary
Posts: 33
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Thanks! I'll pass this on to the tech. Jayco allowed me to use!
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