Help with my FW hook up plan

[Vista]

Since I have never done it before, I would like to run my fresh water / hook up solution by you experienced RVers.

Background: 2019 like new -and new to me- SLX 175 RD Baja (30 gal FW). Short term will be about 50/50 boon docking and hook ups. When possible, I plan to tow it dry for reasons of weight concern. The water will be used for flushing, cleaning and showering, but not cooking. For now, we will be no more than a few days in any one stop.

Equipment: I have an inlet 90 degree elbow, disposable in line filter, a 25’ Camco 5/8 ID Water hose, and a brass pre set 40-50 psi regulator. I have a Camco Filler for when not connected, and will carry an “empty” 5 gallon jug.

Questions:

1. I only want to take a 25’ fresh water hose. I recognize many use 50’. If 25’ will accommodate me 90% of the time, I am ok lugging water the other 10% since our stops will be short right now. Is this reasonable expectation? In your experiences, can you USUALLY get away with 25’ ?

2. Is there tangible benefit to a 5/8 vs. 1/2 ID hose?

3. Is this a good install sequence:
Source > Regulator > Hose > Filter > 90 elbow > Inlet.
Is the elbow required if I use a short hose protector on the filter?

4. The trailer and manual are not with me right now. When connected to city water source, do you manually turn off pumps and remove the FW tank from the equation, or does CW connection feed tanks in some way? Sorry for that novice question …

Thanks for the help.

[Henkster]

Hi, this is just my few on your issues.


question 1 you can take what ever works for you the best. I have 25ft water hose works great for me.

Question 2. I used the most common and works for me. you might get more volume with the 5/8 vs the 1/2, keep in mind that the system
inside is 3/8 lines I guess.

Question 3. its about the weight of the filter when its filled with water. the set up you suggested is good. I have seen both set ups but I use the 90 degree elbow to prevent pulling down on the connection.

Question 4. The water pump is your one way valve it should NOT let water go thru when it is hooked up to the city water. No need to run the water pump when hooked up to city water.
I had it happen that my pump one way valve let water thru and filled up my tank and overflowed my trailer where the FW filler cap is. My 27BH has two overflows, I added valves to them. During towing the water would slosh out and when I get to my destination I only had half a tank of water left.

[EA37TS]

Originally Posted by Vista

Since I have never done it before, I would like to run my fresh water / hook up solution by you experienced RVers.

Background: 2019 like new -and new to me- SLX 175 RD Baja (30 gal FW). Short term will be about 50/50 boon docking and hook ups. When possible, I plan to tow it dry for reasons of weight concern. The water will be used for flushing, cleaning and showering, but not cooking. For now, we will be no more than a few days in any one stop.

Equipment: I have an inlet 90 degree elbow, disposable in line filter, a 25’ Camco 5/8 ID Water hose, and a brass pre set 40-50 psi regulator. I have a Camco Filler for when not connected, and will carry an “empty” 5 gallon jug.

Questions:

1. I only want to take a 25’ fresh water hose. I recognize many use 50’. If 25’ will accommodate me 90% of the time, I am ok lugging water the other 10% since our stops will be short right now. Is this reasonable expectation? In your experiences, can you USUALLY get away with 25’ ?

2. Is there tangible benefit to a 5/8 vs. 1/2 ID hose?

3. Is this a good install sequence:
Source > Regulator > Hose > Filter > 90 elbow > Inlet.
Is the elbow required if I use a short hose protector on the filter?

4. The trailer and manual are not with me right now. When connected to city water source, do you manually turn off pumps and remove the FW tank from the equation, or does CW connection feed tanks in some way? Sorry for that novice question …

Thanks for the help.

I would change the sequence unless the filter is pressure sensitive. I would use

Source, filter, regulator, hose elbow, inlet or

Source, regulator, filter, hose, elbow, inlet.

Reason is to filter out any sediment before it hits the regulator and hose and also the filter will reduce the pressure some so reduce before the regulator rather than regulate and then further reduce through the filter.

In the last 7 years I have needed 50 feet of hose one time and that was when I backed too far into my spot next to the house. I have 2 25 foot zero g houses and one is still brand new in the box never used. I do have a second 25 foot hose that is my utility to black tank flushing hose.

Hope this helps.

[Vista]

Thanks Dave. Just the kind of stuff I was looking for.

I will consider your suggestion on moving the filter. I am not too worried about the regulator getting plugged up with sediment though being in line before the filter. Although brass it was not expensive and can be replaced as needed.

I do have another zero G style hose for utility, but that's not part of this equation.

Also, Thanks Henkster, appreciate the feedback!

[NewBlackDak]

I like: Source, Filter, hose, regulator, elbow, inlet

I want the weight of the filter hanging from the metal stand pipe, and not my plastic trailer plumbing. I also want the hose to be as clean as possible.

I carry 3 hoses with me. First is a heated 25’ 1/2” potable hose. Second is drinking water safe collapsible 25’. I’ve used it about 6 times. Twice was because we thought a pull through spot was stupidly oriented away from the view. The others were all in primitive campgrounds. It allowed us to hook up to the water supply, and gets some water in our tanks. The third is a 15’ red hose used only for waste tank flush.