Hitch & springs squeak

[rdream]

We have a new White Hawk with 400 miles.Does the squeeking evere stop hitch swaybars & spring??

[Crabman]

Nope. Metal on metal under tension will rub and make metallic groans and squeaks. Perfectly normal but can be a bit annoying.

[Quahog]

I've greased mine up and it helps. Anywhere there are moving parts (i.e., sway bar, ball, spring bars, etc.), put a little grease.

[David472]

Just don't grease the sway bar friction surfaces

[Quahog]

David,

I didn't even think about that but you're right. A lubed up friction bar probably wouldn't work very well.

[Rustic Eagle]

As mentioned, a little lube in the right places will help.

A standard WDH adjusted correctly so that at least five chain links are under tension at the snap-up bracket will also help during TV turns. Less than five links restricts proper spring bar travel during TV turns putting additional strain on the components that could contribute to squeeks

Utilizing the same spring bar in the same ball mount socket (driver side/passenger side) will help in some cases.

Bob

[cheetahflip]

On my style of WDH system Reese and etrailer.com(where purchased)recommended only using petroleum jelly on trunnion spring bars where they ride on cams and a few drops of gear oil on spring bar sockets. Mine is as quiet as can be, doesn't make a sound. I'm on chain link 6 and I also labeled my spring bars P side D side so they always go in the same place each hookup

[rdream]

Thanks

[bayleightucker]

during our walk thru the tech showed us how to hook up the wdh. he hooked it up at the fourth link level which is what we have been using, are you saying we should be using at least 5 links? thanks, happy camping.

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by bayleightucker

snip...... are you saying we should be using at least 5 links? thanks, happy camping.

Yes, if you have a standard WDH. Unfortunately some RV dealerships don't take the time to correctly setup/adjust a WDH, and they also fail to tell customers that once the TV/TT combination is "loaded" the WDH may need some additional adjustment.

The following statement is taken from a Reese WDH installation instruction document:

"Raise trailer tongue and rear of car with jack. Lower yoke of snap up bracket until it is parallel with the ground, and slip the closest link over the hook (If there are less than 5 links between hook and u-bolt, adjust ball mount angle rearward, and repeat procedure). With the snap up bracket handle over the yoke, raise until yoke has passed “over-center”. Slide the safety pin through the small hole to lock the yoke in place. Repeat for other side."

Bob

[bayleightucker]

thanks eagle

[McMonk]

Ah, I could be wrong, but I'd be careful going with the 5-links thing on the chain. Not all chains are the same length (even with Jayco) and the wd hitch is designed to be balanced with the TV. I would be more inclined to have the TV and trailer on a flat surface, fully loaded for travel, and through trial & error work it out so the trailer and the TV are equally level based on the links left hanging. For us, sometimes that's 3 links (basic camping junk), sometimes 4 (full water & junk), and when light 2...I've also been know to pull over and adjust depending on the "action" of the vehicles when driving. After awhile, you learn what "feels" comfortable. My humble 2cents...

We grease the ball & WD bar occasionally. No noise from the back-end suspension so can't comment.

[grantsoo]

Originally Posted by McMonk

Ah, I could be wrong, but I'd be careful going with the 5-links thing on the chain. Not all chains are the same length (even with Jayco) and the wd hitch is designed to be balanced with the TV. I would be more inclined to have the TV and trailer on a flat surface, fully loaded for travel, and through trial & error work it out so the trailer and the TV are equally level based on the links left hanging. For us, sometimes that's 3 links (basic camping junk), sometimes 4 (full water & junk), and when light 2...I've also been know to pull over and adjust depending on the "action" of the vehicles when driving. After awhile, you learn what "feels" comfortable. My humble 2cents...

We grease the ball & WD bar occasionally. No noise from the back-end suspension so can't comment.

When you say "feels comfortable" what do you mean? I've gone the route of a level surface and measuring everything to make sure it's level, even measuring the height of the TV. But I still am not comfortable with the sway in even the slightest wind.
I normally travel 3 links, have gone up to 4 when loaded more, and should have gone down to 2 on my last trip home when I noticed the front end sitting down a bit.
Thanks
Grant

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by McMonk

Ah, I could be wrong, but I'd be careful going with the 5-links thing on the chain. Not all chains are the same length.....snip

McMonk,

Your correct on the possibility of varying chain lengths, that's why one will find that when I refer to standard WDH chain links I always reference "chain links under tension" as WDH manufactures do, thus the actual chain length doesn't become an issue.

With most TT frames less than 5-links under tension increases the potential of the spring bar tail being pulled upward into the TT frame during a TV turn (do to reduced range of motion), and in some cases the snap-up bracket "saddle" may move along the TT frame. These conditions are most notable on the taller TT frame heights.

Your dead-on about working with a "loaded" TV/TT combination and on a level surface..., both very important in returning the proper weight distribution back to the TV's front suspension.

Originally Posted by grantsoo

snip......But I still am not comfortable with the sway in even the slightest wind.......snip

Grant,

Your Jay Flight 26RLS (similar floorplan as my '05' 278FBS ) is a 30ft. long TT..., so assuming that your WDH is sized and adjusted correctly you may find that a single standard friction control sway bar won't be adequate should a sway event arise. Most WDH manufactures recommend that if the TT is longer than 25ft "two" friction control sway bars should be used.

IMO, you may want to consider incorporating a Reese HP Dual Cam sway control product (model #26002) to your existing WDH. The Dual Cam doesn't have to be removed when backing up and will provide enhanced TV sway control should a sway event arise.

Reese HP Dual Cam: http://www.reeseprod.com/content/pro...655&part=26002

Check that your TV & TT tire air pressures are correct.., and many folks have found that running "LT" tires on their TV in lieu of "P" also enhances TV handling with the longer TT's.

Reference JOF 'grantsoo' thread: http://www.jaycoowners.com/showthread.php?t=6866

Just food for thought.

Bob

[Moving Target]

Originally Posted by McMonk

Ah, I could be wrong, but I'd be careful going with the 5-links thing on the chain. Not all chains are the same length (even with Jayco) and the wd hitch is designed to be balanced with the TV. I would be more inclined to have the TV and trailer on a flat surface, fully loaded for travel, and through trial & error work it out so the trailer and the TV are equally level based on the links left hanging. For us, sometimes that's 3 links (basic camping junk), sometimes 4 (full water & junk), and when light 2...I've also been know to pull over and adjust depending on the "action" of the vehicles when driving. After awhile, you learn what "feels" comfortable. My humble 2cents...

We grease the ball & WD bar occasionally. No noise from the back-end suspension so can't comment.

I was wondering about chain length also. I have mine on link 2!!
Kathie

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by Moving Target

I was wondering about chain length also. I have mine on link 2!!
Kathie

Kathie,

Two links Under "tension", or just hanging loose? Referencing "under tension" is more commonly stated.

Bob

[grantsoo]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

McMonk,

Your correct on the possibility of varying chain lengths, that's why one will find that when I refer to standard WDH chain links I always reference "chain links under tension" as WDH manufactures do, thus the actual chain length doesn't become an issue.

With most TT frames less than 5-links under tension increases the potential of the spring bar tail being pulled upward into the TT frame during a TV turn (do to reduced range of motion), and in some cases the snap-up bracket "saddle" may move along the TT frame. These conditions are most notable on the taller TT frame heights.

Your dead-on about working with a "loaded" TV/TT combination and on a level surface..., both very important in returning the proper weight distribution back to the TV's front suspension.


Grant,

Your Jay Flight 26RLS (similar floorplan as my '05' 278FBS ) is a 30ft. long TT..., so assuming that your WDH is sized and adjusted correctly you may find that a single standard friction control sway bar won't be adequate should a sway event arise. Most WDH manufactures recommend that if the TT is longer than 25ft "two" friction control sway bars should be used.

IMO, you may want to consider incorporating a Reese HP Dual Cam sway control product (model #26002) to your existing WDH. The Dual Cam doesn't have to be removed when backing up and will provide enhanced TV sway control should a sway event arise.

Reese HP Dual Cam: http://www.reeseprod.com/content/pro...655&part=26002

Check that your TV & TT tire air pressures are correct.., and many folks have found that running "LT" tires on their TV in lieu of "P" also enhances TV handling with the longer TT's.

Reference JOF 'grantsoo' thread: http://www.jaycoowners.com/showthread.php?t=6866

Just food for thought.

Bob

Thanks Bob.
I'll check this out.

Grant