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Old 06-21-2015, 01:17 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by tugboat95 View Post
I have this issue as well. I've done the WD 40 and grease. Didn't seem to help. Best solution I've found is a large screwdriver. I have a slot in my hitch on the forward side of the locking lever. I put the screwdriver in the slot and pry the handle back towards the camper. When starting, the screwdriver Is in the vertical position. Just need a bit of leverage. Pops off every time with little to no effort. Just the leverage. The screwdriver pushes the lock forward (towards the vehicle) and up. It is next to impossible to do by hand.
Needing to use a screwdriver for release kinda supports the improper clamp adjustment idea.

That said, I'm not familiar enough to know exactly what hitch/latch/clamp design is under discussion.

vic

Added:
I recall one hitch design where the lower clamp fork could bind on the lower flange of the the ball. Some hitch balls have larger/higher (thicker) flanges and riser stock as compared to other hitch balls.
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Old 06-21-2015, 05:29 PM   #22
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It's that's the case where and how you adjust it? I see nothing that will do that. My situation is like it's just stuck and I need the extra leverage to pull the mechanism forward.
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Old 06-21-2015, 06:36 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tugboat95 View Post
It's that's the case where and how you adjust it? I see nothing that will do that. My situation is like it's just stuck and I need the extra leverage to pull the mechanism forward.
Quote:
Originally Posted by VicS1950 View Post
...

That said, I'm not familiar enough to know exactly what hitch/latch/clamp design is under discussion.

vic

...
I'm not certain. Maybe do an internet search using the hitch brand and model number?

I will say that I'd check very carefully for evidence of binding or other mechanical issues before changing adjustments.

Sorry I can't offer more.

vic
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Old 06-21-2015, 08:01 PM   #24
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I started a post back in January on this as I travel alone and the only way I could get it unhitched was to put the car in reverse with someone then raising the tongue. It once took me doing that and two men and a crowbar to unhitch it. I can mostly get it unhitched now.
1. the dealer had set my trailer way too high. It was a beast to pull (sway) and practically impossible to unhitch. It has been lowered substantially by another dealer and that does help.
2. I can only unhitch by myself if the front of my car is "up" and that's not how most campsites are set up; usually the front of your car is a little down. So now I actually put some levelers under my front tires to raise them.
3. After setting the tongue on the ground/support, I get in the car and gently do a little reverse hoping it will un-wedge from the front lip of the coupler.
4. As per some suggestions here, I release my wt distribution bars but leave them in and bang them around violently as I raise the tongue. Sometimes I stand on them and lean over and bang them too and that makes quite a picture I'm sure.

There is definitely something wrong with this coupling system that we all have to go to such extraordinary lengths to unhitch.
(I'm gonna add the WD40 to my axle grease I usually put on the ball that one of you suggested.)
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Old 06-21-2015, 10:29 PM   #25
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Same problem with mine when it was new. I started using grease and after a few trips...it became easier to unhitch.
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Old 06-22-2015, 12:46 AM   #26
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reading this thread has gotten me curious. either the stamping process of some couplers was off, causing the socket to be too small for the ball (making it stick), or there is too much paint inside.

Has any one tried a spray on/brush on paint remover for the inside of the coupler to get rid of ALL the paint up in there?

Or has anyone remove some of the metal on the front part of the ball? Look to see where the chrome on the ball is wearing, then take a dremel/file and remove some of the material.

I have not had the issue in the past to the extent mentioned here, but I did notice some wear spots on my chrome ball. I use a stainless steel ball now. No wear spots and it holds grease better.
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Old 06-22-2015, 07:31 AM   #27
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I always make sure the ball is to the FRONT of the tongue. Usually, I'll put chocks on the ground in front of the TT wheels, engage the truck into 'drive', drift forward (no gas) until it has resistance... slide the lock THEN raise the tongue up.
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Old 06-22-2015, 08:24 AM   #28
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Since no one is answering the ?? about the Jayco hitch system, am I to assume that no one knows? Greece, pry bar, jump and giggle stuff, and the ever popular "%&%&#*(()__%#@#xx@#$*)&#" language is all that we can do. Really, there has to be a problem. Can't believe we all have bad " balls" that need to be ground down so everything points back to Jayco. So with that said it seems that only the Jayco engineers have the answer.
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Old 06-22-2015, 09:21 AM   #29
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Hello all.
I, fortunately, do not have this issue. Our 2015 28BHBE uncouples fine. Had a few issues before I lubed the coupler, but nothing since.
I am sure that Jayco did not manufacture the coupler though.
Our trailer frame was built by Lippert Mfg. I don't see a stamp indicating who made the coupler
I only see a small "rub mark" on the top rear of the ball of the Anderson hitch.
The system works very well with the 3500HD Silverado.

Happy Camping.
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Old 06-22-2015, 10:13 AM   #30
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I had same problem this weekend...
If you look into the latch when it is op and open, you can see the part that contacts the ball and there is about 1/8" CLEArance...as I jack it up to get it off the hitch, this part comes back to contact the ball...

unbelievably frustrating...I had to jack it up pretty high before jumping up and down on the hitch worked...I grease the ball

maybe the grease I use is gooping up inside the coupler?
Is there a recommended ball grease and maybe a coupler degreaser/rust inhibitor??
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