Hitch won't release from ball

[scottraycraft]

been using spray silicone to lubricate ball and hitch latch for the past 2 seasons and have had NO problems

I did at first, was using the same grease I used to ez lube bearings...this added a LOT of goop in my hitch...cleaned that out with degreaser and switched to silicone with no issues since

[OCBray]

Finally. This past weekend we were able to get back down and go camping. Before we hitched up I was able to inspect the tongue. I found a quarter inch long bur under the front edge of the tongue pocket and some paint that looks like it was sprayed over some debris. It almost looked like it was textured paint. Anyway, I used a pencil grinding bit on a dremmel tool followed by a barrel sanding disc in the drill. That must have been what was causing the ball to stick in the front of the tongue. We had to bounce around to a couple of sites due to reservations. So we had plenty of opportunity to verify the fix.

I also was able to fix the tongue jack. It would not work on the battery but worked fine when attached to the TV. The inline 30 amp slow blow fuse was fine. Using a meter I tracked the loss of power all the way back to the battery. The RED wire with the inline fuse connects to a BLACK wire at a crimp connection. That wire goes into a 4x4 box mounted to the front of the camper (without a waterproof cover) In that box the BLACK wire is crimped to a GREEN wire that exits the box and goes to a spade type fuse connector. The other side of that fuse holder has a GREEN wire that goes back in the box and is crimped to another RED wire that goes to the battery. The spade 30 amp fuse was blown. Replaced and fixed.

AYFKM I have worked in manufacturing as an electrician for over 20 years. I have never seen so many wire color changes for the same dam wire. Not to mention the double 30 amp fuses in the same wire chain.

Previously I had emailed Jayco for a set of drawings for the camper. They replied, they can not send them as long as it is under warranty. Now I really wast to see the drawing. I cant believe anyone would make a drawing that calls all that out.

The trip was great and now everything is working fine. Thanks for everyone's input. Now I have to work on my hangover before work tomorrow.... Cheers!

[mmwhit]

Lots of great techniques here. I have had a couple of times when I’ve had difficulty getting the hitch ball to release. I found a very helpful tool that really works. My dealer had it in their parts section. I bought the Jimmy Lever and tried it out when the trailer hitch and ball would not separate. It worked! Here is a link:

THE JIMMY LEVER - TRAILER HITCH TOOL

[skids]

Funny video. Only the back side of each tire chocked.

[Marinoni]

Hello, I went through the problem uncoupling our Jayco pop-up from our SUV, pry bars, reversing, jumping up and down and finally just swearing.
The solution, the clasp/lock for the ball capture, you have to push it backwards first and then lift, the whole coupling comes clear, quite a good design once you get it. I had previously been thinking the clasp just went straight up like other hitches, hope this helps.

[oldmanAZ]

Hello and welcome to the forum.

[putz]

I know this might sound stupid but take a micrometer and measure the size of the ball. Everything seems to be made in China now and they just don't get the size right because the usually convert from metric. Same goes for the hitch socket, made in China.
So while unhitched try taking an unattached ball and inserting it in the hitch. It should go in and out easy. If this works insert the ball, close the hitch lock, release it and see if the ball still come out without a problem.
You put all that weight on the ball when you hitch up, it will go on.

[Chet & Marie]

Every time just before I hook up I spray the ball and receiver with WD40. Makes a huge difference in unhooking my TT.

[WeRJuliian]

I recently found that it helps to have the Lady From Little Rock go and sit on the rear bumper of the TT :-)

[Chet & Marie]

8mh

Originally Posted by WeRJuliian

I recently found that it helps to have the Lady From Little Rock go and sit on the rear bumper of the TT :-)

We Are Julian you better hope and pray to The Gods that The Sweet little Lady from Little Rock does not read your post because you are dead meat if she does.

[Scott_Trailer_Newbe]

Take both of the weight distribution arms loose from the trailer, but keep one on the truck hitch. Heavily Rock the arm up and down while raising the trailer, problem solved. Only use this method if all others have failed.

[putz]

Follow up: Just talked to my friend who has a 2 month old Forest River toyhauler.
Same problem getting the hitch to release. So its not Jayco. Its at the dealer waiting it
line to get this problem solved. Unknown what frame he has? Will post with the solution????

[mikegray]

I just had the same problem with the ball latch on my new to me 2014 Flight. I was just pushing it up and forward. I put some WD40 White Lithium grease on the latch and ball. I accidentally pushed the latch back and it came right off.
Mike

[Scott_Trailer_Newbe]

There is no perfect method. Each time you camp the trailer and truck sit differently. The hitch itself can be a contributing factor, as my previous 24RKS was more of a pain than my 28RL. The main thing to pay attention to, did your truck move forward or backward once you put it in park and released the break? If if didn’t move, lucky you, but usually it goes one way or the other. You need to get the ball centered [floating] then lock the parking break down. From there, the usual procedure and leave one WDH bar attached so you can rock the hitch as you raise the trailer off the ball.

[tjpolsin]

I have found this thread both interesting and puzzling at the same time.
Only one or two times in my towing life has my hitch failed to release from my truck. And these times were solely due to my failure to follow my tried/true process
- pull/back the trailer to where you want to park it.
- with my foot firmly on the brake pedal, put the tow/vehicle in park (manual transmission in neutral), set the parking brake, release the brake pedal. tow vehicle shouldn't move even an inch.
- set your trailer blocks (both sides of the trailer and both sides of the tires.)

Unless I have parked on an incline, my trailer has always released from my truck.

additionally, I always use a bit of lithium grease on the trailer ball, and silicon spray on the ball latch mechanism.

[Jacotim]

My best suggestion is to make sure the hitch ball is greased before each hook up and leave the TV in park w/out the e-brake on and TT wheels ckocked. Sometimes it will take a little more lift on the tongue but it'll break loose. Not that uncommon for a hitch ball connection.

[Scott_Trailer_Newbe]

I probably posted this before within this thread. Can’t speak for other brands, but if you try to un-hitch a Jayco tow behind with any pressure forward or back it will only come out if you heavily push up and down on one of your weight distribution bars disconnected from the trailer, but still connected to the truck hitch. Go up until you see it hang, then stop and with good force push down and up on the disconnected bar to make the hitch on the truck wobble. Now go up some more, usually one time is enough but sometime it takes two efforts.

[parallax]

+1. My 161. I have to back it up or pull it forward to get the latch. To latch on the ball

[Jacotim]

Originally Posted by parallax

+1. My 161. I have to back it up or pull it forward to get the latch. To latch on the ball

Try this next time you hook up. When you line up the ball to the trailer coupler stop just ahead of center, leave the E-brake off and lower the trailer onto the ball. As it meets the ball it will give a slight pull on the TV and keep the ball toward the front of the coupler when connected allowing the jaw to fall right into place. Be sure to always grease the ball first.