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06-27-2015, 05:57 AM
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#61
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 26
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This happens a lot with mine. So what I do is after I got the front power Jack down and wheel chocks set I move the TV slightly to align the ball with the opening of the hitch. Now it comes out easily every time. Once you get it lined up make a mark on the draw bar and on the tongue so you know where the sweet spot is for release. :-)
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06-28-2015, 05:34 PM
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#62
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryJ
Gee have pulled many things in past 30 years and I've never had the issues that I do with our 264BHW. Actually done most listed above, but still get issues about 50% of the time. To me just shouldn't be an issue if hookup is clean which I believe doing best can everytime...
Larry J
2015 SLX 264BHW
2007 Ram 1500 5.7L - 3.92, Equalizer 1000, Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Brake Controller
Priors:
Jayco Eagle 10 ST RD
Keystone Sprinter M-380BWS
Rockwood Freedom 1640TD
Jayco SLX 154BH
Taurus 26' current hunting shack
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Same issues here too. I think I've figured out MY problem, though; in my yard, my trailer parking spot is level, yet the truck is still inclined due to driveway grade.
When lifting the TT off the ball, there is just enough vertical angle that causes the rear of the TT tounge to catch the ball. Once with beating and jiggling, I finally did decouple, and when it popped off, the darn truck rolled forward almost two inches. It was almost as if the TT was holding the truck on grade, while the tranny did not have enough hold.
My solution thus far is to use the ebrake to hold the truck while decoupling.
It seems that these new hitches are somewhat sensitive to a vertical misalignment of truck and trailer.
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06-28-2015, 06:01 PM
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#63
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: FL
Posts: 11,281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctbailey
snip... It was almost as if the TT was holding the truck on grade, while the tranny did not have enough hold.
My solution thus far is to use the ebrake to hold the truck while decoupling. ...snip
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Yup. Using the emergency brake (parking brake) is an excellent idea.
The parking brake engages a 'pawl' inside the transmission, but there is a lot of 'clearance' in the mechanism. Your vehicle can roll several inches after you put lever in 'park' before the pawl engages and holds the vehicle. Most of the time a little bit of roll does not matter; when hitching or unhitching, those inches DO matter.
Using the parking brake first to hold the vehicle in position, and second putting the transmission in 'park,' stops the vehicle from rolling and can eliminate that as part of the problem.
__________________
Sherm & Terry w/rescue Eydie (min Schnauzer) & Charley (std Poodle)
SOLD:2015 Jay Flight 27RLS, GY Endurance (E), Days: 102 '15, 90 '16, 80 '17, 161 '18, 365+ '20
SOLD: 2006 Ford F350 PSD, 4WD, CC, LB, SRW, Camper pkg., 375,000mi
Full timing: Some will think you're crazy, some will be envious, just enjoy the freedom!
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06-29-2015, 02:57 PM
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#64
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Calgary
Posts: 885
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I have not had this issue but if I did and was going to the trouble to replace the coupler I would upgrade at the same time. Adding a coupler is not rocket science and I wouldn't be concerned about the dealer messing it up. If you really are concerned ask Jayco about paying a welding service to do it for you rather than the dealer.
Upgrade options.....
Reese!
Fulton!
Fold away!
Fulton - Fold-Away Couplers
A-Frame Couplers
Lots of options and the couplers aren't that expensive either.
Cheers
__________________
2014 Jayco Swift 281BHS, 300W Solar!
2015 F250 XLT 4x4 Crew Cab, Short box, 6.2 gas
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06-29-2015, 11:52 PM
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#65
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Ninilchik, Alaska
Posts: 95
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Spray the ball and coupler assembly with TRI-FLO, a spray lubricant found usually in bicycle shops. Expensive but the best spray lubricant that I have found.
Works for me.
__________________
2012 JAYCO BUNGALOW Jayflight 40FER
2004.5 Dodge Ram; CTD; 3500 Dually; CC; 4x4; 6 spd. 5600; Smarty Jr.
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07-09-2015, 12:54 PM
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#66
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Vancouver Island
Posts: 20
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Update - Just got back from a week camping and am happy to report that the decoupling issue seems to be much improved. I took Grumpys advice and cleaned the paint overspray from inside the coupler (there was lots), added a good helping of grease and made sure to line the ball up with the MIDDLE of the coupler when removing and that seemed to do the trick.
Thanks for the help.
__________________
2015 26RKS
2015 F350 SD 6.7
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07-09-2015, 12:59 PM
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#67
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Campbell Hall
Posts: 2,835
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Well, some good news around here for a change.
Glad to hear it!
__________________
TT 2015 19RD "TheJayco"
TV 2003 F-350 "Montblanc" - Housebroken chore truck
Sitting in The Cheap Seats.
And proud of it!
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07-09-2015, 01:16 PM
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#68
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Abingdon
Posts: 6,177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike837go
Well, some good news around here for a change.
Glad to hear it!
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My cat died.
__________________
2013 Jayco Eagle 328 RLTS
2021 Keystone Montana 3121RL
2013 F350 6.7L 4x4 CCLB
W/Air Lift air bags (front & rear)
Equal-I-Zer™ WDH & B&W Companion
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07-09-2015, 01:43 PM
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#69
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Roanoke
Posts: 152
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You know the tongue of that trailer sets up differently which may contribute to uncoupling issues. Anyone had issues because of that with being able to release the tension on the wt. distribution bars without raising the two vehicles tremendously?
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07-10-2015, 04:13 PM
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#70
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: San Jacinto, Calif
Posts: 459
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I never had a problem with my 23FB but my 2012 29 RLDS has a different of hitch where the ball goes in. It is kind of flat instead of raised. anyway I was at the dealer telling him about this and he sold me something that cured the problem. It looks like a big 2 prong fork. You slide it under the coupling and raise it up, the trailer raises up and comes off the ball. Cost about $20.00 but worth ever penny.
__________________
If you are born once you will die twice
If you are born twice you will die once
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07-10-2015, 06:11 PM
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#71
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: St. Clairsville
Posts: 225
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That fork thing sounds very dangerous to me. Vaneta, yes, I have had that issue many times. The only safe way to unhitch is to make sure there is no tension, or the least amount possible, before undoing bars and lifting off the ball. When in a "v" where the camper is higher than the tv I have even backed the TV onto boards to reduce tension from the odd angle. Once you have one "pop" on you once, you won't want it to happen again.
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07-19-2015, 07:57 PM
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#72
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Santa Clarita
Posts: 54
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I have the same problem with my 2014 White Hawk 27RBOK. The first time was a bear to decouple. I had never had that problem before Jayco. What I learned is to grease the ball well and I sometimes have to jump on my bumper a little to decouple.
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07-19-2015, 11:24 PM
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#73
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Bremerton
Posts: 342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctbailey
My solution thus far is to use the ebrake to hold the truck while decoupling.
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I assumed that this is a given for any trailer couple or uncouple??
As a kid, I helped my dad back the car to the trailer and prided myself on getting the ball right under the hitch just perfectly every time. Only to have my dad put the car in park, take his foot off the brake, get out of the car and notice that I was off by 2" - all because the car rolled.
I always use the parking brake! My kids and my camera get the ball just right, I set the brake, get out, then drop the hitch onto the ball.
when unhooking, I get the trailer backed in the spot just right, leveled side to side. Set the brake, then set the chocks on all four wheels. the most movement I have ever seen is about 1/2" when I unhooked.
- use the tongue jack to take tension off the wd bars.
- unhook wd bars
- lower tongue jack to take tension off the ball and hitch.
- unlatch ball
- raise tongue jack to release ball from hitch.
- remove safety chains, power cord, brake cable.
Tim
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07-20-2015, 06:48 AM
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#74
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 517
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe in calif
... It looks like a big 2 prong fork. You slide it under the coupling and raise it up, the trailer raises up and comes off the ball. Cost about $20.00 but worth ever penny.
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Leverage in the correct area sounds reasonable. Just be aware of pinch points for your fingers in case something slips.
Does the tool look something like this?
16" Tie Rod Separator
vic
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07-20-2015, 04:14 PM
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#75
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Corona
Posts: 2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BCguy
I thought there was another post on this so I did search but couldn't find it so here is the problem:
The hitch on my 2015 26RKS is an absolute bear to uncouple. It just will NOT release without a great deal of effort to get it perfectly aligned and even then it does not want to let go. I've tried all the tips about backing into the chocks to loosen etc. but it is always a nightmare to release. I've had many trailers hooked up and this is the first one that gives me so much trouble.
Anything particular to the type of coupler that Jayco uses that might help me understand why this is happening? Any suggestions appreciated.
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Are you using a load leveling hitch? I had a problem releasing my hitch off the ball until I removed the leveling bars off my load leveling hitch. It worked for me.
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07-20-2015, 07:06 PM
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#76
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kelowna, BC Canada
Posts: 213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottraycraft
what did you lube COUPLER with?
Ive never done this with past trailers...only the ball, with the same grease I used to lube the easy lube bearings...
maybe some degreaser and a silicone lube in the COUPLER would help?
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I used a silicon spray lube. Just a couple seconds worth as the Andersen Hitch says not to grease the ball. With the Andersen system, the ball moves with the coupler as the sway control is built into the ball/shank/brake in the hitch. We just returned from a 10 day trip and had no issues disconnecting at CG or on return home. (TT is stored in our driveway).
Happy Camping
__________________
'07 Chevrolet Silverado 3500HD XC LB SRW 4X2.
Powerstop Brakes on all corners.
'15 JayFlight 28BHBE Elite Fibreglass
Andersen Hitch.
'07 Northern Lite 10-2RR Camper.
SuperSprings.
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07-28-2015, 08:12 AM
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#77
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 609
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So, I lubed the ball and coupler this past trip with white lithium spray. No more hangups, and more importantly no more noise
__________________
Craig T. Bailey
Hudson, NH
2015 Jayflight 32BHDS
2018 Chevy 3500HD Crew 4x4 Duramax
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03-28-2016, 09:21 AM
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#78
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Jeffersonville
Posts: 65
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I have the same issue! I will try some grease on mine to see if it helps. When towing my Popup I could move the trailer around a bit and get it unhitched. There is no moving this thing by hand!
I thought it may have something to do with it being new and a little tight.
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03-28-2016, 10:23 AM
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#79
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Houston
Posts: 781
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You may have to back up further with the TV then you think. The hitch has quite a hook on the front of it on my TT. Once I figured that out, it was smooth sailing.
__________________
2016 Jayco Eagle 330RSTS = " Madame Maxime"
Maxxis M8008 E rated Tires and 16" Wheel Upgrade
Dual A/C 15K BTU, 14K Equalizer WD hitch with SC
King Bed with Java Interior, (2X) Yamaha EF2000isV2
2012 Ram 4500, 6.7L Cummins Turbo Diesel, MegaCab = " Hagrid"
8'x12' BMCM Stake Bed, Cabin Chassis, 2WD
360 degree Virtual Tour
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03-28-2016, 10:33 AM
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#80
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Grand Forks
Posts: 101
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I've seen a vast improvement unhitching after a season of use. I do use white grease on the ball, and now it disconnects much easier after some wear-in.
__________________
Jolly Mon
-2004 Nissan Titan w/Equal-i-zer hitch
-2014 Jayco White Hawk 24 RBS
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