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Old 03-09-2016, 03:35 PM   #11
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Would this work?

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Old 03-09-2016, 03:54 PM   #12
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You would have the same issues you are having now. Those bars will hang under your trailer frame and be low similar to your round bars.

This is the type of hitch that will raise the bars up to be beside your frame...

Equal-i-zer® Hitch - The “American Original” with 4-Point Sway Control™ and Weight Distribution
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Old 03-09-2016, 04:01 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Camper_bob View Post
You got your numbers backwards; it will go more like 32" with no trailer, 34" with trailer and no weight distribution. 100% weight distribution return would be 32", 50% would be 33".
My bad!!!! Lol

Trying to post from my phone as quick as possible while working..... Didn't proof read!!! Lol

TY Bob!!!
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Old 03-09-2016, 04:02 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by lukenick1 View Post
Would this work?

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It's hard to tell. From the pictures, it looks like it would be better.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Subaru297 View Post
You would have the same issues you are having now. Those bars will hang under your trailer frame and be low similar to your round bars.

This is the type of hitch that will raise the bars up to be beside your frame...

Equal-i-zer® Hitch - The “American Original” with 4-Point Sway Control™ and Weight Distribution
I think the relevant measure is from the hitch ball to the spring arm socket. In either the Curt that she linked from Amazon or the Equal-i-zer that you linked, that measurement looks to be very close.

Also, in both the Curt and the Equal-i-zer, the spring bars come straight out of the hitch head instead of traveling down first, which will automatically give more clearance in either case.

For me personally, the Equal-i-zer is a superior hitch anyway, so if I were going to replace it, I would go with the best I could get. You might also appeal to the dealer (or whoever installed/sold it to you) and ask them if they could trade you out for a new one. If they're the ones who hosed you on your 12V connection, I would use that as leverage.
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Old 03-09-2016, 04:05 PM   #15
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Also consider the Reese SC system. It is the same style wdh as the Equal-I-Zer, but uses replaceable brake pad meter jam where the bars ride on the brackets. And the Reese hitch head has more fine tuning adjustment for the wd bars than the Equal-I-Zer system. If you change trailers (go bigger) you can buy just the wd bars for the Reese, but may have to buy a whole new system if you have the Equal-I-Zer model.

Regardless, both are very good system and you can't go wrong with either!!!
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Old 03-09-2016, 04:07 PM   #16
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The Curt system uses a trunion bar, which should be angled down so the end of the bar can swing under the trailer frame in tight turns. The Equal-I-Zer or Reese SC would be a better choice for limited ground clearance.
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WDH SET UP. HOW A WDH WORKS. CAT SCALE HOW TO.
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Old 03-09-2016, 04:27 PM   #17
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The Curt system uses a trunion bar, which should be angled down so the end of the bar can swing under the trailer frame in tight turns. The Equal-I-Zer or Reese SC would be a better choice for limited ground clearance.
That's a good point. But I think in this case, since the coupler is underslung, there would be plenty of clearance for any chain-type WDH for the bars to swing under the tongue. With a top-of-frame mounted coupler, this might not be the case.
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Old 03-09-2016, 07:11 PM   #18
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Very nice combo you have. We got a nice clean 2005 Jay Feather LTG 29Y a couple of weeks ago and still working on all the mods. We went from a 2012 Jay Flight 198RD which was a bit small. We had bigger units over the years but thought to smaller, no that didn't work for us.

My first mod would be grind off the low end coupler and replace it with a one on the top. The Jay Feathers can be pulled with SUV's that's why they must have that coupler so low unless there was a sale on them. But that's beside the point. You have a truck and they should have used the bolt on couplers like they did on the Jay Feathers in 2005 era.

First of all with connecting or disconnecting the TT from the TV is chocks behind and on front of the TT wheels both sides. "Never forget this"

On the picture it look like the bars are a bit low they should be parallel with the frame. Maybe the picture is deceiving because of the angle it is taken. So you might have to tilt your ball head a bit forward. And since it is low GVWR you don't have to transfer much to the TV front unless the springs in the back squat to much. To change that situation I would install air shocks or Air Lift 1000 in the springs. Depends on what type of springs Toyota uses.

Did you get your battery all sorted out?
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Old 03-09-2016, 07:56 PM   #19
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That's a good point. But I think in this case, since the coupler is underslung, there would be plenty of clearance for any chain-type WDH for the bars to swing under the tongue. With a top-of-frame mounted coupler, this might not be the case.
Good point as well. Just not sure if changing to the Curt would gain that much ground clearance. Hard to say without seeing the combo in person.

Lukenick,

Crazy thought, could you flip the axles and have them mounted under the springs to gain a little trailer height (ground to frame)???? May not gain enough height though to justify the cost.
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Old 03-09-2016, 11:42 PM   #20
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snip...... You might also appeal to the dealer (or whoever installed/sold it to you) and ask them if they could trade you out for a new one.....snip
I agree...., exchange the "round" bar WDH for a "trunnion" bar WDH if an Equal-i-zer WDH isn't in the budget. IMO another case where the dealer should have known better.

lukenick1.....,

With a "bottom mount" TT ball coupler (like yours) a standard WDH with "trunnion" style springs bar (lieu of round bar) will 99% of the time provide increased spring bar ground clearance when sized, installed, and adjusted correctly.

The round bar style WDH's are desirable with "top mounted" TT ball couplers because they tend to clear the lower-leading edge of the TT frame in given TV turn conditions. Using a trunnion style spring bar with a top mounted TT ball coupler the trunnion "knuckle" may come in contact with the lower-leading edge of the TT frame (especially the taller TT frames) in given TV turn conditions.

As mentioned, the ideal position for an engaged spring bar is parallel to the TT frame (or slight downward angle) which will insure maximum "fore/aft" spring bar movement during TV turns, thus not compromising the chain snap-up bracket and/or causing the tail of the spring bar from coming in contact with the outside surface of the TT frame. That's why many manufactures of standard WDH's specify a 5-chain link "under tension" minimum, this also accommodates the required fore/aft spring bar movement during TV turns.

Bob
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