Hitching up/Weight Distribution?

[lukenick1]

Originally Posted by need-a-vacation

Good point as well. Just not sure if changing to the Curt would gain that much ground clearance. Hard to say without seeing the combo in person.

Lukenick,

Crazy thought, could you flip the axles and have them mounted under the springs to gain a little trailer height (ground to frame)???? May not gain enough height though to justify the cost.

Ok just a reminder....I am a newbie woman who doesn't know the lingo. Axles? Springs? which are those?

[lukenick1]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

I agree...., exchange the "round" bar WDH for a "trunnion" bar WDH if an Equal-i-zer WDH isn't in the budget. IMO another case where the dealer should have known better.

lukenick1.....,

With a "bottom mount" TT ball coupler (like yours) a standard WDH with "trunnion" style springs bar (lieu of round bar) will 99% of the time provide increased spring bar ground clearance when sized, installed, and adjusted correctly.

The round bar style WDH's are desirable with "top mounted" TT ball couplers because they tend to clear the lower-leading edge of the TT frame in given TV turn conditions. Using a trunnion style spring bar with a top mounted TT ball coupler the trunnion "knuckle" may come in contact with the lower-leading edge of the TT frame (especially the taller TT frames) in given TV turn conditions.

As mentioned, the ideal position for an engaged spring bar is parallel to the TT frame (or slight downward angle) which will insure maximum "fore/aft" spring bar movement during TV turns, thus not compromising the chain snap-up bracket and/or causing the tail of the spring bar from coming in contact with the outside surface of the TT frame. That's why many manufactures of standard WDH's specify a 5-chain link "under tension" minimum, this also accommodates the required fore/aft spring bar movement during TV turns.

Bob

Could this be why I am getting a loud "creaking" noise every time I turn my TV while towing?

[need-a-vacation]

Axles are what your wheel/tire combo is bolted to. The axle is attached to the leaf springs providing a smoother ride. The leaf spring is bolted to the frame of the trailer.

Technically the wheel is mounted to the hub, which rotates on the axle shaft with bearings.

If you do switch to the Curt (or another of the same style), make sure you have the correct minimum number of chain links "under tension" (between the wd bar and the snap up bracket) per what the manufacture recommends. As Rustic mentioned, helps in making sure the wd bars have adequate movement during tight turns.

Majority of hitches will make noise during turns. It usually is the spring bar end turning (moving) in the hitch head. Could also be your side mounted sway control bar making the noise as well. Or both! Lol

[ALJO]

What year and model Jay Feather do you have? I wonder if they still use the Dexter Torflex Axles on them?

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by lukenick1

Could this be why I am getting a loud "creaking" noise every time I turn my TV while towing?

Many WDH's make some degree of noise during TV turns due to the inherent friction points and metal-on-metal components. Sometimes a loud "creaking" noise is the result of an improper adjusted WDH, or just in need of a little lubrication at the proper locations. With your style of manual friction sway control arm it's recommended to remove it when backing up.

If your RV dealership didn't provide you with your WDH documentation, I'd ask for it or check the manufacture's web site. The documentation in most cases will identify lubrication points that will help in minimizing the "creaking" noise.

If you can post the brand & model number of your WDH I'm sure a JOF member will help with a 'link' to the appropriate documentation.

Bob

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by need-a-vacation

Good point as well. Just not sure if changing to the Curt would gain that much ground clearance. Hard to say without seeing the combo in person.

Lukenick,

Crazy thought, could you flip the axles and have them mounted under the springs to gain a little trailer height (ground to frame)???? May not gain enough height though to justify the cost.

I think that would be a last resort for me (not necessarily personally, but in lukenick's position). I'm thinking of my wife trying to get something like that accomplished on her own and it gives me anxiety (and our OP knows more about this stuff than my wife does at this point). If I knew someone at a suspension or auto repair shop who I trusted, that might be different...

[lukenick1]

Thanks everyone....

My camper is a 2010 Jayfeather 22Y. My WDH is a Pro Series Kit #49902 It's got a 750lb spring bar weight and 10,000lb gross weight. Not sure if that is the info your looking for. Thanks for being patient with me I am the camper in the house and my husband knows even less than me. ha ha

I noticed it's all getting rusted in my garage is that supposed to happen that quick? It's fairly new, got it all in August.

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

I think that would be a last resort for me (not necessarily personally, but in lukenick's position).....snip

I think the option of "flipping" an axle(s) is off the table...., the OP just mentioned that her TT is a 2010 model Jay Feather, I believe they used the Dexter Tor-Flex axles then which can't be flipped.

Bob

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by lukenick1

snip..... My WDH is a Pro Series Kit #49902 It's got a 750lb spring bar weight and 10,000lb gross weight......snip

The link below will provide the Installation Instructions of the Pro Series Round Bar WDH inclusive of your model #49902:

http://www.proseriestowing.com/suppo...ion/N49902.pdf

If you don't have these documents, may want to print out a copy. They do identify lubrication points.

Bob

[need-a-vacation]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

I think the option of "flipping" an axle(s) is off the table...., the OP just mentioned that her TT is a 2010 model Jay Feather, I believe they used the Dexter Tor-Flex axles then which can't be flipped.

Bob

Was just a thought, but with the tor-flex axles a no go as you mentioned...

[lukenick1]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

The link below will provide the Installation Instructions of the Pro Series Round Bar WDH inclusive of your model #49902:

http://www.proseriestowing.com/suppo...ion/N49902.pdf

If you don't have these documents, may want to print out a copy. They do identify lubrication points.

Bob

Thanks for that link....I was reading about sway control hook up. I have been getting conflicting information. The dealer told me to tighten the bar only a tad. One person at a campground told me to tighten it tight. Not sure what is right?

[rabalin]

You only tighten as needed, you won't know that till you get out on the road and pull it. If it was mine I would be somewhere between snug and tight and loosen or tighten as needed.

[ALJO]

What a shame they have the coupler welded on. The 9" drop shank cost probably more than the top mounted coupler. Then the standard 6" shank would work. But it is what it is. Lucky you have 750 lbs. WDH bars. First generation frames only where allowed to 900 lbs. on the 4 1/4 A-Frame Channel. NXG (second) generations Norco BAL, I don't know what you can use. Seems those A-Frames are 5 or 6". There is a 2 or 3" lift kit available for Torflex axles. But wouldn't recommend to go through that expense. They you are set up it will work. But won't take it off-road.

[lukenick1]

Originally Posted by ALJO

What a shame they have the coupler welded on. The 9" drop shank cost probably more than the top mounted coupler. Then the standard 6" shank would work. But it is what it is. Lucky you have 750 lbs. WDH bars. First generation frames only where allowed to 900 lbs. on the 4 1/4 A-Frame Channel. NXG (second) generations Norco BAL, I don't know what you can use. Seems those A-Frames are 5 or 6". There is a 2 or 3" lift kit available for Torflex axles. But wouldn't recommend to go through that expense. They you are set up it will work. But won't take it off-road.

YUP! Cost me $220 just for the drop. Ridiculous.........

[lukenick1]

I was reading that I need to tilt the ball if I have more than 5 chains left on my spring bars.....well looking at my pic I have about 8 chains. So do we tilt the ball towards the truck or towards the camper....Oh I am so confused...LOL

[ALJO]

I used my Jay Feather without the WDH bars but I have Air Lift 1000 in my rear springs.
At 25 psi I am still riding level. Don't be confused it is all mathematics ........lol.
You have a good truck in front which is much better that the SUV's they pulling the light weights with. You will be safe with or without the WDH. A sway bar is always recommended, but I drove home without and had no noticeable sway when trucks were passing, this is of the low profile of the Jay Feather. In the 70's we hardly new the word sway control because all trailers where low profile.

[lukenick1]

Originally Posted by ALJO

I used my Jay Feather without the WDH bars but I have Air Lift 1000 in my rear springs.
At 25 psi I am still riding level. Don't be confused it is all mathematics ........lol.
You have a good truck in front which is much better that the SUV's they pulling the light weights with. You will be safe with or without the WDH. A sway bar is always recommended, but I drove home without and had no noticeable sway when trucks were passing, this is of the low profile of the Jay Feather. In the 70's we hardly new the word sway control because all trailers where low profile.

Do you think I don't even need to use the WD bars? My camper's GVWR is 5,800. I doubt I put that much weight into it. I never fill the water tank and basically only have blankets and toiletries in it. I use paper products for eating. Will I bounce without them? I should probably add my truck is a 2001.

[ALJO]

Ours is 6500 lbs. and only weigh 6039 on the scale with 300 lbs. water and run without WDH, but then I have Air Lift 1000 in rear springs.
You just have to try things out when you set up (you do or with the help from someone else).
Truck and Trailer have to run level. If the truck rear end goes down to much you have to compensate with WDH (or Air Lift like I do). For adjusting the WDH many did give you links on how to do that. Print it and read it over and over and you'll understand.
Adjusting the head slightly forward takes wrenches and a torque wrench and muscles.
Who did adjust the WDH for you in the first place?

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by lukenick1

Do you think I don't even need to use the WD bars? My camper's GVWR is 5,800. I doubt I put that much weight into it. I never fill the water tank and basically only have blankets and toiletries in it. I use paper products for eating. Will I bounce without them? I should probably add my truck is a 2001.

I wouldn't go without some kind of weight distribution hitch in your case, but you can find out for sure by taking your truck with trailer attached to a scale. You'll also know by the feel of the steering; if the front of the truck feels like it's "floating", then you definitely want some kind of weight distribution. Sway control is "optional", but again, I wouldn't go without it.

The trailer will likely get heavier than you think. We had a saying in my backpacking days, "every ounce counts" (several variations). You'd be surprised how much your "stuff" weighs.

[need-a-vacation]

Originally Posted by lukenick1

I was reading that I need to tilt the ball if I have more than 5 chains left on my spring bars.....well looking at my pic I have about 8 chains. So do we tilt the ball towards the truck or towards the camper....Oh I am so confused...LOL

They state between the u-bolt that attaches the chain to the bar, and the snap up brackets you need at least 5 links (this is the number of links "under tension"). This allows for the wd bar to move as needed during tight turns. But at the same time you want to keep the wd bar as parallel as possible to the trailer frame (or the ground when on level or flat ground). You do not want the wd bars pointing up any significant amount. Ever so slightly is ok, but as close to level/ parallel as possible.