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Old 03-10-2016, 06:28 AM   #21
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Good point as well. Just not sure if changing to the Curt would gain that much ground clearance. Hard to say without seeing the combo in person.

Lukenick,

Crazy thought, could you flip the axles and have them mounted under the springs to gain a little trailer height (ground to frame)???? May not gain enough height though to justify the cost.
Ok just a reminder....I am a newbie woman who doesn't know the lingo. Axles? Springs? which are those?
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Old 03-10-2016, 06:31 AM   #22
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I agree...., exchange the "round" bar WDH for a "trunnion" bar WDH if an Equal-i-zer WDH isn't in the budget. IMO another case where the dealer should have known better.

lukenick1.....,

With a "bottom mount" TT ball coupler (like yours) a standard WDH with "trunnion" style springs bar (lieu of round bar) will 99% of the time provide increased spring bar ground clearance when sized, installed, and adjusted correctly.

The round bar style WDH's are desirable with "top mounted" TT ball couplers because they tend to clear the lower-leading edge of the TT frame in given TV turn conditions. Using a trunnion style spring bar with a top mounted TT ball coupler the trunnion "knuckle" may come in contact with the lower-leading edge of the TT frame (especially the taller TT frames) in given TV turn conditions.

As mentioned, the ideal position for an engaged spring bar is parallel to the TT frame (or slight downward angle) which will insure maximum "fore/aft" spring bar movement during TV turns, thus not compromising the chain snap-up bracket and/or causing the tail of the spring bar from coming in contact with the outside surface of the TT frame. That's why many manufactures of standard WDH's specify a 5-chain link "under tension" minimum, this also accommodates the required fore/aft spring bar movement during TV turns.

Bob
Could this be why I am getting a loud "creaking" noise every time I turn my TV while towing?
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Old 03-10-2016, 07:47 AM   #23
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Axles are what your wheel/tire combo is bolted to. The axle is attached to the leaf springs providing a smoother ride. The leaf spring is bolted to the frame of the trailer.

Technically the wheel is mounted to the hub, which rotates on the axle shaft with bearings.

If you do switch to the Curt (or another of the same style), make sure you have the correct minimum number of chain links "under tension" (between the wd bar and the snap up bracket) per what the manufacture recommends. As Rustic mentioned, helps in making sure the wd bars have adequate movement during tight turns.

Majority of hitches will make noise during turns. It usually is the spring bar end turning (moving) in the hitch head. Could also be your side mounted sway control bar making the noise as well. Or both! Lol
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Old 03-10-2016, 08:50 AM   #24
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What year and model Jay Feather do you have? I wonder if they still use the Dexter Torflex Axles on them?
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Old 03-10-2016, 11:02 AM   #25
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Could this be why I am getting a loud "creaking" noise every time I turn my TV while towing?
Many WDH's make some degree of noise during TV turns due to the inherent friction points and metal-on-metal components. Sometimes a loud "creaking" noise is the result of an improper adjusted WDH, or just in need of a little lubrication at the proper locations. With your style of manual friction sway control arm it's recommended to remove it when backing up.

If your RV dealership didn't provide you with your WDH documentation, I'd ask for it or check the manufacture's web site. The documentation in most cases will identify lubrication points that will help in minimizing the "creaking" noise.

If you can post the brand & model number of your WDH I'm sure a JOF member will help with a 'link' to the appropriate documentation.

Bob
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Old 03-10-2016, 11:07 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by need-a-vacation View Post
Good point as well. Just not sure if changing to the Curt would gain that much ground clearance. Hard to say without seeing the combo in person.

Lukenick,

Crazy thought, could you flip the axles and have them mounted under the springs to gain a little trailer height (ground to frame)???? May not gain enough height though to justify the cost.
I think that would be a last resort for me (not necessarily personally, but in lukenick's position). I'm thinking of my wife trying to get something like that accomplished on her own and it gives me anxiety (and our OP knows more about this stuff than my wife does at this point). If I knew someone at a suspension or auto repair shop who I trusted, that might be different...
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Old 03-10-2016, 11:48 AM   #27
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Thanks everyone....

My camper is a 2010 Jayfeather 22Y. My WDH is a Pro Series Kit #49902 It's got a 750lb spring bar weight and 10,000lb gross weight. Not sure if that is the info your looking for. Thanks for being patient with me I am the camper in the house and my husband knows even less than me. ha ha

I noticed it's all getting rusted in my garage is that supposed to happen that quick? It's fairly new, got it all in August.
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Old 03-10-2016, 11:57 AM   #28
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I think that would be a last resort for me (not necessarily personally, but in lukenick's position).....snip
I think the option of "flipping" an axle(s) is off the table...., the OP just mentioned that her TT is a 2010 model Jay Feather, I believe they used the Dexter Tor-Flex axles then which can't be flipped.

Bob
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Old 03-10-2016, 12:06 PM   #29
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snip..... My WDH is a Pro Series Kit #49902 It's got a 750lb spring bar weight and 10,000lb gross weight......snip
The link below will provide the Installation Instructions of the Pro Series Round Bar WDH inclusive of your model #49902:

http://www.proseriestowing.com/suppo...ion/N49902.pdf

If you don't have these documents, may want to print out a copy. They do identify lubrication points.

Bob
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Old 03-10-2016, 12:17 PM   #30
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I think the option of "flipping" an axle(s) is off the table...., the OP just mentioned that her TT is a 2010 model Jay Feather, I believe they used the Dexter Tor-Flex axles then which can't be flipped.

Bob
Was just a thought, but with the tor-flex axles a no go as you mentioned...
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