Hitching up/Weight Distribution?

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by lukenick1

I was reading that I need to tilt the ball if I have more than 5 chains left on my spring bars.....well looking at my pic I have about 8 chains. So do we tilt the ball towards the truck or towards the camper....Oh I am so confused...LOL

Be careful not to get the terminology of chain links "hanging free" confused with chain links "under tension", two very different conditions.

Referencing your photos in your original post, you presently have "8 chain links under tension" with 1 chain link hanging free. The instructions for your specific WDH state that: "Readjust degree of tilt on ball mount, if you have more than 5 links of chain hanging free." So based on this statement you meet the manufactures recommendation with your 1 chain link hanging free (but doesn't mean your WDH adjustment is ideal).

The objective of your WDH is to restore the weight back to your TV's front suspension that was previously removed when the TT's tongue weight was initially placed on your hitch ball (your TV's front end rise). In making the required WDH adjustments to accomplish the proper weight transfer, most WDH manufactures instructions reference using your TV's fender heights as a means (ball park) to do this (unhitched compared to hitched). The WDH is designed to restore the TV's original front suspension characteristics, not the TV's rear suspension...., although it will help in reducing some of the rear end squat.

The goal thru WDH adjustments is to insure that proper (restored) weight transfer was accomplished and that your WDH round spring bars are parallel to the TT frame when engaged.

You may have to read the WDH installation instructions a couple of times to grasp how a given adjustment effects the operation of the WDH. Reviewing the installation instructions and standing next to your WDH may be helpful. As I mentioned earlier, this first time dealing with a WDH adjustment it's best to have someone with you that is familiar with WDH's for guidance....., we all went through this learning curve.

As mentioned in an earlier post, it appears your spring bars are angled downward a little to much (needs to be adjusted accordingly), or it's just the angle the photo was taken from giving that illusion.

Bob

[ALJO]

Luckenick1; I would be confused too reading all this stuff. Wonder if camping is getting to be a nightmare to you by now. Don't wait till half April, Go early camping and leave all electronics home your kids will enjoy it. Don't forget hubby, an assistant is always handy to have. You will built memories we all went through. We are still building memories with the 6mnd old girl from my daughter. Camping you have to learn young.......just like swimming.

[Subaru297]

Your truck has a weight carrying capacity on the receiver of your truck (square part that your drop shank goes into). It is likely 500lbs.
If the tongue weight of your trailer is over 500lbs you need a WDH. It is not optional. Sway control is optional the weight distribution part is not.

As Rustic Eagle mentioned above a WDH restores weight to your front axle so your vehicle steers properly. Too much tongue weight means not enough weight on your front axle which can create a dangerous situation. A WD hitches purpose is not to adjust the sag of your vehicle. That is a byproduct.

If you tilt your head forward toward your truck but only use the 5 or 6 links under tension then you should get the same weight transfer and a bit more ground clearance. If you can't get enough weight transfer you will need to tilt the head back a bit. At 8 links your setup is not adjusted perfectly yet.

Cheers

[lukenick1]

Originally Posted by Subaru297

Your truck has a weight carrying capacity on the receiver of your truck (square part that your drop shank goes into). It is likely 500lbs.
If the tongue weight of your trailer is over 500lbs you need a WDH. It is not optional. Sway control is optional the weight distribution part is not.

As Rustic Eagle mentioned above a WDH restores weight to your front axle so your vehicle steers properly. Too much tongue weight means not enough weight on your front axle which can create a dangerous situation. A WD hitches purpose is not to adjust the sag of your vehicle. That is a byproduct.

If you tilt your head forward toward your truck but only use the 5 or 6 links under tension then you should get the same weight transfer and a bit more ground clearance. If you can't get enough weight transfer you will need to tilt the head back a bit. At 8 links your setup is not adjusted perfectly yet.

Cheers

Thanks....yes my tongue weight is 515. I have a hard enough time getting the 2nd link on it I cannot even imagine having to go down one more link. Just the 2nd link alone requires me to jack the back end of my truck up so high to relieve the tension enough for me to hook that link on to the little hook then I use the metal rod to lock it up into place. The back end of the spring rods do come down a little they are definitely not level with the tongue. The dealer set this up "unloaded". Never gave me any instructions on how to change it once loaded. I think I will try to find a handy hubby at the campground once I arrive to help make it right. This is all so overwhelming my pop up was easier....ha ha ha ha.

[lukenick1]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

Be careful not to get the terminology of chain links "hanging free" confused with chain links "under tension", two very different conditions.

Referencing your photos in your original post, you presently have "8 chain links under tension" with 1 chain link hanging free. The instructions for your specific WDH state that: "Readjust degree of tilt on ball mount, if you have more than 5 links of chain hanging free." So based on this statement you meet the manufactures recommendation with your 1 chain link hanging free (but doesn't mean your WDH adjustment is ideal).
.

Bob

You are right, I was confusing the two. Thank you!

[Subaru297]

Originally Posted by lukenick1

Thanks....yes my tongue weight is 515. I have a hard enough time getting the 2nd link on it I cannot even imagine having to go down one more link. Just the 2nd link alone requires me to jack the back end of my truck up so high to relieve the tension enough for me to hook that link on to the little hook then I use the metal rod to lock it up into place. The back end of the spring rods do come down a little they are definitely not level with the tongue. The dealer set this up "unloaded". Never gave me any instructions on how to change it once loaded. I think I will try to find a handy hubby at the campground once I arrive to help make it right. This is all so overwhelming my pop up was easier....ha ha ha ha.

Yes but if you tilt the head you should be able to get the 5th or 6th link on with the same amount of tension as you currently need and this will operate the same as it is now with the ends of the bars and inch or two higher. More clearance.

Or just live with them dragging once in a while. My Blue Ox bar ends have hit the ground a few times as well.

[lukenick1]

Originally Posted by Subaru297

Yes but if you tilt the head you should be able to get the 5th or 6th link on with the same amount of tension as you currently need and this will operate the same as it is now with the ends of the bars and inch or two higher. More clearance.

Or just live with them dragging once in a while. My Blue Ox bar ends have hit the ground a few times as well.

Well that is definitely worth a try then. Now I need to find the right tools and big muscles to tilt it.

[need-a-vacation]

Originally Posted by lukenick1

Thanks....yes my tongue weight is 515. I have a hard enough time getting the 2nd link on it I cannot even imagine having to go down one more link. Just the 2nd link alone requires me to jack the back end of my truck up so high to relieve the tension enough for me to hook that link on to the little hook then I use the metal rod to lock it up into place. The back end of the spring rods do come down a little they are definitely not level with the tongue. The dealer set this up "unloaded". Never gave me any instructions on how to change it once loaded. I think I will try to find a handy hubby at the campground once I arrive to help make it right. This is all so overwhelming my pop up was easier....ha ha ha ha.

But is that 515lb tw the manufactures "brochure" weight? If so, that does not even include the weight of the propane tank(s) or a battery on the tongue.

To change the hitch head tilt you do need some large sockets/ wrenches. I ended up buying a 3/4" drive breaker bar and socket to make it easier to adjust my hitch. Make sure you get everything properly tightened if you do adjust it.

Good luck!!!

[lukenick1]

Originally Posted by ALJO

Very nice combo you have. We got a nice clean 2005 Jay Feather LTG 29Y a couple of weeks ago and still working on all the mods. We went from a 2012 Jay Flight 198RD which was a bit small. We had bigger units over the years but thought to smaller, no that didn't work for us.

My first mod would be grind off the low end coupler and replace it with a one on the top. The Jay Feathers can be pulled with SUV's that's why they must have that coupler so low unless there was a sale on them. But that's beside the point. You have a truck and they should have used the bolt on couplers like they did on the Jay Feathers in 2005 era.

First of all with connecting or disconnecting the TT from the TV is chocks behind and on front of the TT wheels both sides. "Never forget this"

On the picture it look like the bars are a bit low they should be parallel with the frame. Maybe the picture is deceiving because of the angle it is taken. So you might have to tilt your ball head a bit forward. And since it is low GVWR you don't have to transfer much to the TV front unless the springs in the back squat to much. To change that situation I would install air shocks or Air Lift 1000 in the springs. Depends on what type of springs Toyota uses.

Did you get your battery all sorted out?

I showed a pic of my set up to the hitch place that is re wiring my battery charger to the plug. Anyhow...they said I could bolt a coupler to the top of the frame and then just cut the lower one off? Does that sound safe that it would be just bolted on and not welded? Also, he said by having the coupler undermounted it is creating more tension and will wear the coupler out pretty quick. Yikes.....

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by lukenick1

snip........ Anyhow...they said I could bolt a coupler to the top of the frame and then just cut the lower one off? Does that sound safe that it would be just bolted on and not welded? Also, he said by having the coupler undermounted it is creating more tension and will wear the coupler out pretty quick. Yikes.....

IMO the technician is leading you in the wrong direction on the subject of a bolt-on coupler. A bolt-on coupler will not give you anywhere near the integrity that a welded top or bottom mount coupler will. No, a bottom mount coupler doesn't create "more tension" and increase coupler wear.

IMO if your not satisfied with the ground clearance your round bar WDH provides once it's properly adjusted, then consider going with a trunnion bar WDH to gain ground clearance.

Bob

[ALJO]

Rustic Eagle: Don't know where you get your information from but would you should do a bit more researching on the subject.

lukenick1: Yes, you can mount a coupler on top bolted on. The old one the weld has to be grinded off in order to remove the old coupler.
When mounting the coupler on top they install between the frame bushings where the long bolts go through (otherwise the frame get squeezed). Mounting a coupler on top with bolts doesn't change the integrity of the system. Hence on the Jay Feather Ultra Frames they where all bolted on with 4 bolts. On the NXG frame for some reason they weld everything again.
The idea of underslung couplers is more for SUV's pulling TT's. You have a half ton truck and a coupler on top is much easier on the WDH plus you have more ground clearance. Those couplers are only around $60.00 + you need some bolts and bushings (pipe).

[lukenick1]

Originally Posted by ALJO

Rustic Eagle: Don't know where you get your information from but would you should do a bit more researching on the subject.

lukenick1: Yes, you can mount a coupler on top bolted on. The old one the weld has to be grinded off in order to remove the old coupler.
When mounting the coupler on top they install between the frame bushings where the long bolts go through (otherwise the frame get squeezed). Mounting a coupler on top with bolts doesn't change the integrity of the system. Hence on the Jay Feather Ultra Frames they where all bolted on with 4 bolts. On the NXG frame for some reason they weld everything again.
The idea of underslung couplers is more for SUV's pulling TT's. You have a half ton truck and a coupler on top is much easier on the WDH plus you have more ground clearance. Those couplers are only around $60.00 + you need some bolts and bushings (pipe).

I just got off the phone with a trailer repair shop in my area. They have been in business for years but I never knew about it. A neighbor told me to call them. He said for me to bring my set up over there and he would take a look. He mentioned adding springs to raise the trailer but I think someone here mentioned it wouldn't be possible because of the axles? I will take it over there in 2 weeks when I pick it up and see what he thinks. I am so confused.......ha ha ha ha. I wonder if I could switch my spring bars over to trunnion bars without needing to buy a new head?

[SkyBound]

No, you'll need a new head. Don't try to build a frankenstein hitch, just go buy a complete one new or used. I had a quick glance at the pictures and I agree it doesn't look right. That drop shank is too much, those bars are way too low. Before you go and start throwing money around and cutting things off your trailer, I would find someone in your area that actually knows what they're doing, buy a different used hitch for cheap, and set it up properly. You could have your problems solved for a couple hundred bucks.

[ALJO]

Your hitch head that's where the WDH bars fit in. Trunnion bars are not interchangeable with what you have. And you can't change the Dexter Torflex axle setup.
So the cheapest way is your coupler exchange and go back to your old 2" x 6" drop shank. The probably will give you credit for the 2'x9" drop shank.
I am sure to many answers create confusion...........that are forums...lol.
I can send a picture of my Jay Feather so you can see the coupler setup.

[lukenick1]

Originally Posted by ALJO

Your hitch head that's where the WDH bars fit in. Trunnion bars are not interchangeable with what you have. And you can't change the Dexter Torflex axle setup.
So the cheapest way is your coupler exchange and go back to your old 2" x 6" drop shank. The probably will give you credit for the 2'x9" drop shank.
I am sure to many answers create confusion...........that are forums...lol.
I can send a picture of my Jay Feather so you can see the coupler setup.

I can almost guarantee they won't give me credit for the shank, they won't even give me a new battery. Even though it was brand new 7 months ago they said it will be pro rated. New ownership also since I bought, so these guys are not budging. I wasn't even given an option on the WDH they just gave me what they had. Wish I knew better then, but I had no idea about anything. They knew that too! Grrrrrrrrrr

[lukenick1]

Hey guys.....

If I end up going the trunnion style wdh, is this sufficient? Seems like a good price.

Equalizer E2 Weight Distribution Hitch 10000 lbs - $279.80

Seems like an all in one weight distribution with sway.

[need-a-vacation]

The E2 is a good system, but the Equal-I-Zer 4 way system or Reese SC would be even better. Yes, is it a little more money for either of them but worth it imho.

[lukenick1]

What about the Eaz Lift Recurve R3?

[need-a-vacation]

Originally Posted by lukenick1

What about the Eaz Lift Recurve R3?

I forgot about that "series" of models!!!

I have not read any reviews of the R3, but a member (Roscoe I think it is) over in GM-Trucks.com has the R6 (think that's the top model) and was very happy with it last I read. It is in the towing forum if you head over there. I will try to find the thread if I can.

[lukenick1]

Wow!!!!!! Guess what?????? I just spoke with the dealer and told them about my set up and asked if they could reimburse me for some of the money I pad on this hitch, I explained to them how low my bars sit and how I have a heck of a time setting up. I sent them a pic thru email. He called me and told me I need to come back with my truck and trailer and they need to make it right, they said it is wrong and needs to be set up properly. I am excited but have a feeling when I get there they will tell me all is well and send me back home. Keeping my fingers crossed!!!!