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Old 03-10-2016, 12:30 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle View Post
The link below will provide the Installation Instructions of the Pro Series Round Bar WDH inclusive of your model #49902:

http://www.proseriestowing.com/suppo...ion/N49902.pdf

If you don't have these documents, may want to print out a copy. They do identify lubrication points.

Bob
Thanks for that link....I was reading about sway control hook up. I have been getting conflicting information. The dealer told me to tighten the bar only a tad. One person at a campground told me to tighten it tight. Not sure what is right?
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Old 03-10-2016, 12:36 PM   #32
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You only tighten as needed, you won't know that till you get out on the road and pull it. If it was mine I would be somewhere between snug and tight and loosen or tighten as needed.
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Old 03-10-2016, 12:37 PM   #33
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What a shame they have the coupler welded on. The 9" drop shank cost probably more than the top mounted coupler. Then the standard 6" shank would work. But it is what it is. Lucky you have 750 lbs. WDH bars. First generation frames only where allowed to 900 lbs. on the 4 1/4 A-Frame Channel. NXG (second) generations Norco BAL, I don't know what you can use. Seems those A-Frames are 5 or 6". There is a 2 or 3" lift kit available for Torflex axles. But wouldn't recommend to go through that expense. They you are set up it will work. But won't take it off-road.
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Old 03-10-2016, 12:45 PM   #34
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What a shame they have the coupler welded on. The 9" drop shank cost probably more than the top mounted coupler. Then the standard 6" shank would work. But it is what it is. Lucky you have 750 lbs. WDH bars. First generation frames only where allowed to 900 lbs. on the 4 1/4 A-Frame Channel. NXG (second) generations Norco BAL, I don't know what you can use. Seems those A-Frames are 5 or 6". There is a 2 or 3" lift kit available for Torflex axles. But wouldn't recommend to go through that expense. They you are set up it will work. But won't take it off-road.
YUP! Cost me $220 just for the drop. Ridiculous.........
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Old 03-10-2016, 12:57 PM   #35
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I was reading that I need to tilt the ball if I have more than 5 chains left on my spring bars.....well looking at my pic I have about 8 chains. So do we tilt the ball towards the truck or towards the camper....Oh I am so confused...LOL
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Old 03-10-2016, 01:06 PM   #36
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I used my Jay Feather without the WDH bars but I have Air Lift 1000 in my rear springs.
At 25 psi I am still riding level. Don't be confused it is all mathematics ........lol.
You have a good truck in front which is much better that the SUV's they pulling the light weights with. You will be safe with or without the WDH. A sway bar is always recommended, but I drove home without and had no noticeable sway when trucks were passing, this is of the low profile of the Jay Feather. In the 70's we hardly new the word sway control because all trailers where low profile.
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Old 03-10-2016, 01:10 PM   #37
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I used my Jay Feather without the WDH bars but I have Air Lift 1000 in my rear springs.
At 25 psi I am still riding level. Don't be confused it is all mathematics ........lol.
You have a good truck in front which is much better that the SUV's they pulling the light weights with. You will be safe with or without the WDH. A sway bar is always recommended, but I drove home without and had no noticeable sway when trucks were passing, this is of the low profile of the Jay Feather. In the 70's we hardly new the word sway control because all trailers where low profile.
Do you think I don't even need to use the WD bars? My camper's GVWR is 5,800. I doubt I put that much weight into it. I never fill the water tank and basically only have blankets and toiletries in it. I use paper products for eating. Will I bounce without them? I should probably add my truck is a 2001.
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Old 03-10-2016, 01:55 PM   #38
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Ours is 6500 lbs. and only weigh 6039 on the scale with 300 lbs. water and run without WDH, but then I have Air Lift 1000 in rear springs.
You just have to try things out when you set up (you do or with the help from someone else).
Truck and Trailer have to run level. If the truck rear end goes down to much you have to compensate with WDH (or Air Lift like I do). For adjusting the WDH many did give you links on how to do that. Print it and read it over and over and you'll understand.
Adjusting the head slightly forward takes wrenches and a torque wrench and muscles.
Who did adjust the WDH for you in the first place?
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Old 03-10-2016, 02:07 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by lukenick1 View Post
Do you think I don't even need to use the WD bars? My camper's GVWR is 5,800. I doubt I put that much weight into it. I never fill the water tank and basically only have blankets and toiletries in it. I use paper products for eating. Will I bounce without them? I should probably add my truck is a 2001.
I wouldn't go without some kind of weight distribution hitch in your case, but you can find out for sure by taking your truck with trailer attached to a scale. You'll also know by the feel of the steering; if the front of the truck feels like it's "floating", then you definitely want some kind of weight distribution. Sway control is "optional", but again, I wouldn't go without it.

The trailer will likely get heavier than you think. We had a saying in my backpacking days, "every ounce counts" (several variations). You'd be surprised how much your "stuff" weighs.
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Old 03-10-2016, 02:28 PM   #40
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I was reading that I need to tilt the ball if I have more than 5 chains left on my spring bars.....well looking at my pic I have about 8 chains. So do we tilt the ball towards the truck or towards the camper....Oh I am so confused...LOL
They state between the u-bolt that attaches the chain to the bar, and the snap up brackets you need at least 5 links (this is the number of links "under tension"). This allows for the wd bar to move as needed during tight turns. But at the same time you want to keep the wd bar as parallel as possible to the trailer frame (or the ground when on level or flat ground). You do not want the wd bars pointing up any significant amount. Ever so slightly is ok, but as close to level/ parallel as possible.
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