Hitching up/Weight Distribution?

[lukenick1]

Ok folks....this forum is so helpful to me I appreciate it. My next question is about hitching up and weight distribution. I don't know all the correct "lingo" here so bear with me in my descriptions. The hole in the back of my truck that the drop/ball goes into....well they made me buy a 10" drop to put into that hole. This thing is soooo heavy and seems like overkill. Not only that but getting the weight bars on is such an ordeal. I feel like I have to jack the truck up so high just to get them loose enough to attach and detach. Worry I will damage the truck. Also, the weight dist bars are so low to the ground there are times when they have scraped on a speed bump or other bumps. Can someone give me advice on an easy way to hitch up or whether the set up is wrong? I will attach some pics. I saw a video where a guy attached the weight bars first then dropped the tongue onto the ball. That seems like it would be easier but only if you have the tongue lined up exact over the ball. Help a newbie girl here......thanks

[Proud Grandpa]

When unhitching, leave trailer attached to the ball, then jack the tongue and truck bumper up until the chain loosens. To hitch, attach to ball, raise with jack and hook the chains to the correct link. This works for me

[lukenick1]

I know how to do it, I just feel like my truck has to be jacked up too high to get the chains loose enough. Doesn't seem right.

[Camper_bob]

You have some of the same problem I have. Your coupler is "underslung" on the trailer frame. That is, it's attached to the bottom of the front of the trailer frame instead of the top. Normally, not a big deal, but when you have the kind of round spring bars that come out the bottom of the hitch head, it starts to get kind of close to the ground.

This is one of the reasons I'm switching to an Equal-i-zer weight distribution hitch (I have many others too); the spring bars come straight out of the hitch head toward the trailer instead of coming out the bottom and then curving toward the trailer. I've never scraped bottom before though.

Also, just to be clear, you're connecting the trailer coupler to the ball, locking it in place, and then using the trailer tongue jack to raise the front of the trailer AND the back of the truck to loosen the tension on the spring bars, right? If not, this is how you should do it. It should not damage the truck in any way. In fact I needed to make an adjustment on my truck's rear suspension once, and instead of jacking the truck up to get the suspension droop I needed, I just hooked up the trailer and used it to raise the back of the truck until the tires were ever so slightly off the ground. Didn't hurt anything, just be careful.

The drop shank the installer chose should have been based on measurements of the receiver (on your truck) and the inside center of the coupler (welded to the tongue of your trailer) all in relation to the hitch head and ball height. The short version is that with your trailer sitting level, measure from inside coupler to the ground, then measure the hitch ball height; these two should be within 1/2" (IIRC). If after you are hooked up and your trailer is riding level, you have the right drop, assuming you are attaining the proper weight distribution.

With my old truck, I had to put quite a bit of tension on my bars. I frequently had to raise my truck quite high depending on the angle I was at.

[need-a-vacation]

With the coupler mounted to the bottom of the frame rails, that required the larger drop shank to help level the trailer out. The trailer is level, isn't it? Or slightly nose down?

Do you have a "cheater bar" to latch and unlatch the bars? Slide it on the chain bracket for more leverage?

Concerning the wd bars: Having a "round bar" model, the bars should be fairly level, or parallel with the trailer frame. They can be slightly angled (up or down) as well, by preferred is close to parallel with the frame (which should be close to level). The bars need the room to swing under the frame if needed in tight turns, that is why the need to be level/parrallel.

Raising the trailer and truck up with the jack to latch up the wd bars is fine. You won't hurt anything.

What are your wd bars rated for? Any idea what your loaded tw (tongue weight) is? If not, what is the "brochure" dry tw for your trailer?

Follow the link in my signature. It is possible you may need to readjust the wdh now that you have loaded the trailer up. You can measure the truck front fender to see how close you are. Measure with the tt hooked up, the with the tt hooked up, but without the wd bars. Look in your owners manual to find the recommended wdh adjusment. Will state to return the front axle to 50% of lost weight, or 100%, or XX%. With the wd bars, the measurement should be about what is suggested in the manual.

Example:
Front fender measured 32", no trailer.
Front fender measured 35", with trailer but without the wd bars.
If manual states 50% return, the with the wd bars latched up the front fender should measure about 33.5".

35-32=3" change
3x50%= 1.5

100% return would measure 32" with the wd bars latched up.

If possible, see if there is a CAT Scale near you to weigh the rig, ready to camp with all passengers that usually go. Have the truck and trailer loaded just like for a trip. Read the CAT Scale how to in my signature. You will want to weigh 3 times to be able to figure all weights and check all ratings.

Do you have a pic from the side showing the whole truck/ trailer combo on flat ground?

The wdh shank slides into the truck hitch/ receiver hitch.

Any other questions, just ask!!!

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by need-a-vacation

snip...

Example:
Front fender measured 32", no trailer.
Front fender measured 29", with trailer but without the wd bars.
If manual states 50% return, the with the wd bars latched up the front fender should measure about 30.5".

32-29=3
3x50%= 1.5

100% return would measure 32" with the wd bars latched up.

...snip

You got your numbers backwards; it will go more like 32" with no trailer, 34" with trailer and no weight distribution. 100% weight distribution return would be 32", 50% would be 33".

[lukenick1]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

You have some of the same problem I have. Your coupler is "underslung" on the trailer frame. That is, it's attached to the bottom of the front of the trailer frame instead of the top. Normally, not a big deal, but when you have the kind of round spring bars that come out the bottom of the hitch head, it starts to get kind of close to the ground.

This is one of the reasons I'm switching to an Equal-i-zer weight distribution hitch (I have many others too); the spring bars come straight out of the hitch head toward the trailer instead of coming out the bottom and then curving toward the trailer. I've never scraped bottom before though.

Also, just to be clear, you're connecting the trailer coupler to the ball, locking it in place, and then using the trailer tongue jack to raise the front of the trailer AND the back of the truck to loosen the tension on the spring bars, right? If not, this is how you should do it. It should not damage the truck in any way. In fact I needed to make an adjustment on my truck's rear suspension once, and instead of jacking the truck up to get the suspension droop I needed, I just hooked up the trailer and used it to raise the back of the truck until the tires were ever so slightly off the ground. Didn't hurt anything, just be careful.

The drop shank the installer chose should have been based on measurements of the receiver (on your truck) and the inside center of the coupler (welded to the tongue of your trailer) all in relation to the hitch head and ball height. The short version is that with your trailer sitting level, measure from inside coupler to the ground, then measure the hitch ball height; these two should be within 1/2" (IIRC). If after you are hooked up and your trailer is riding level, you have the right drop, assuming you are attaining the proper weight distribution.

With my old truck, I had to put quite a bit of tension on my bars. I frequently had to raise my truck quite high depending on the angle I was at.

Yes you are right I do have the same issue as yours. Yes I hitch to the ball and lock it then jack truck up. I am so worried it will ruin the shock/struts/suspension whatever you call it at the back of the truck because I need to jack it up so high. Had I known about the equilizer hitch I would have spent the extra money for it. I guess I will have to put up with what I have for now. Thank God for the power lift!

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by lukenick1

Yes you are right I do have the same issue as yours. Yes I hitch to the ball and lock it then jack truck up. I am so worried it will ruin the shock/struts/suspension whatever you call it at the back of the truck because I need to jack it up so high. Had I known about the equilizer hitch I would have spent the extra money for it. I guess I will have to put up with what I have for now. Thank God for the power lift!

You won't hurt the truck. I'd be more worried that parts of your hitch are hitting concrete.

Don't feel too bad, I'm still making due with my hitch, and it's not optimal. Like most of us, I'm on a budget and $600 for a new hitch is nothing to sneeze at. So long as it's safe and it works, that's the most important part. Perhaps I'll achieve "optimal" when I get my bonus!

Did your battery work when you got there?

[lukenick1]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

You won't hurt the truck. I'd be more worried that parts of your hitch are hitting concrete.

Don't feel too bad, I'm still making due with my hitch, and it's not optimal. Like most of us, I'm on a budget and $600 for a new hitch is nothing to sneeze at. So long as it's safe and it works, that's the most important part. Perhaps I'll achieve "optimal" when I get my bonus!

Did your battery work when you got there?

Nope went to 2 different auto parts stores and they both told me battery is no good. I am going to pick up some distilled water and charge it more on the trickle and see what happens. I did not pick up my TT yet this pic was from when I bought it. The dealer set up the hitch system for me.

[lukenick1]

First I have to bring my TV back to get that 7 pin wired for the battery which they failed to do the last time. Ugh!

[lukenick1]

Would this work?

Robot Check

[Subaru297]

You would have the same issues you are having now. Those bars will hang under your trailer frame and be low similar to your round bars.

This is the type of hitch that will raise the bars up to be beside your frame...

Equal-i-zer® Hitch - The “American Original� with 4-Point Sway Control™ and Weight Distribution

[need-a-vacation]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

You got your numbers backwards; it will go more like 32" with no trailer, 34" with trailer and no weight distribution. 100% weight distribution return would be 32", 50% would be 33".

My bad!!!! Lol

Trying to post from my phone as quick as possible while working..... Didn't proof read!!! Lol

TY Bob!!!

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by lukenick1

Would this work?

Robot Check

It's hard to tell. From the pictures, it looks like it would be better.

Originally Posted by Subaru297

You would have the same issues you are having now. Those bars will hang under your trailer frame and be low similar to your round bars.

This is the type of hitch that will raise the bars up to be beside your frame...

Equal-i-zer® Hitch - The “American Original� with 4-Point Sway Control™ and Weight Distribution

I think the relevant measure is from the hitch ball to the spring arm socket. In either the Curt that she linked from Amazon or the Equal-i-zer that you linked, that measurement looks to be very close.

Also, in both the Curt and the Equal-i-zer, the spring bars come straight out of the hitch head instead of traveling down first, which will automatically give more clearance in either case.

For me personally, the Equal-i-zer is a superior hitch anyway, so if I were going to replace it, I would go with the best I could get. You might also appeal to the dealer (or whoever installed/sold it to you) and ask them if they could trade you out for a new one. If they're the ones who hosed you on your 12V connection, I would use that as leverage.

[need-a-vacation]

Also consider the Reese SC system. It is the same style wdh as the Equal-I-Zer, but uses replaceable brake pad meter jam where the bars ride on the brackets. And the Reese hitch head has more fine tuning adjustment for the wd bars than the Equal-I-Zer system. If you change trailers (go bigger) you can buy just the wd bars for the Reese, but may have to buy a whole new system if you have the Equal-I-Zer model.

Regardless, both are very good system and you can't go wrong with either!!!

[need-a-vacation]

The Curt system uses a trunion bar, which should be angled down so the end of the bar can swing under the trailer frame in tight turns. The Equal-I-Zer or Reese SC would be a better choice for limited ground clearance.

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by need-a-vacation

The Curt system uses a trunion bar, which should be angled down so the end of the bar can swing under the trailer frame in tight turns. The Equal-I-Zer or Reese SC would be a better choice for limited ground clearance.

That's a good point. But I think in this case, since the coupler is underslung, there would be plenty of clearance for any chain-type WDH for the bars to swing under the tongue. With a top-of-frame mounted coupler, this might not be the case.

[ALJO]

Very nice combo you have. We got a nice clean 2005 Jay Feather LTG 29Y a couple of weeks ago and still working on all the mods. We went from a 2012 Jay Flight 198RD which was a bit small. We had bigger units over the years but thought to smaller, no that didn't work for us.

My first mod would be grind off the low end coupler and replace it with a one on the top. The Jay Feathers can be pulled with SUV's that's why they must have that coupler so low unless there was a sale on them. But that's beside the point. You have a truck and they should have used the bolt on couplers like they did on the Jay Feathers in 2005 era.

First of all with connecting or disconnecting the TT from the TV is chocks behind and on front of the TT wheels both sides. "Never forget this"

On the picture it look like the bars are a bit low they should be parallel with the frame. Maybe the picture is deceiving because of the angle it is taken. So you might have to tilt your ball head a bit forward. And since it is low GVWR you don't have to transfer much to the TV front unless the springs in the back squat to much. To change that situation I would install air shocks or Air Lift 1000 in the springs. Depends on what type of springs Toyota uses.

Did you get your battery all sorted out?

[need-a-vacation]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

That's a good point. But I think in this case, since the coupler is underslung, there would be plenty of clearance for any chain-type WDH for the bars to swing under the tongue. With a top-of-frame mounted coupler, this might not be the case.

Good point as well. Just not sure if changing to the Curt would gain that much ground clearance. Hard to say without seeing the combo in person.

Lukenick,

Crazy thought, could you flip the axles and have them mounted under the springs to gain a little trailer height (ground to frame)???? May not gain enough height though to justify the cost.

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

snip...... You might also appeal to the dealer (or whoever installed/sold it to you) and ask them if they could trade you out for a new one.....snip

I agree...., exchange the "round" bar WDH for a "trunnion" bar WDH if an Equal-i-zer WDH isn't in the budget. IMO another case where the dealer should have known better.

lukenick1.....,

With a "bottom mount" TT ball coupler (like yours) a standard WDH with "trunnion" style springs bar (lieu of round bar) will 99% of the time provide increased spring bar ground clearance when sized, installed, and adjusted correctly.

The round bar style WDH's are desirable with "top mounted" TT ball couplers because they tend to clear the lower-leading edge of the TT frame in given TV turn conditions. Using a trunnion style spring bar with a top mounted TT ball coupler the trunnion "knuckle" may come in contact with the lower-leading edge of the TT frame (especially the taller TT frames) in given TV turn conditions.

As mentioned, the ideal position for an engaged spring bar is parallel to the TT frame (or slight downward angle) which will insure maximum "fore/aft" spring bar movement during TV turns, thus not compromising the chain snap-up bracket and/or causing the tail of the spring bar from coming in contact with the outside surface of the TT frame. That's why many manufactures of standard WDH's specify a 5-chain link "under tension" minimum, this also accommodates the required fore/aft spring bar movement during TV turns.

Bob