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Old 05-07-2021, 07:18 PM   #1
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Hot water issues

I have a slow drip at the arrow in image 1. I replaced the valve already because when I winterized the camper the old valve was leaking but it was a 2 piece valve and was leaking in the joint of the brass. After I change it out. I found that the pex to brass plastic adapter had bad threads so I then replaced that piece. I have tried with teflon tape without teflon tape. It's as tight as I can get it and still it slowly leaks. I purchased the camper with this brass valve already in it. Not sure why. Any ideas on how to get this to seal up?
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Old 05-07-2021, 07:23 PM   #2
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No image (at least on my Tapatalk app).
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Old 05-07-2021, 07:29 PM   #3
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Apparently got removed on my phone. Hopefully they attach this time
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Old 05-08-2021, 06:08 AM   #4
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The hose clamps you are using are not meant to be used for Pex. You can't get enough compression to seal properly. I'm not sure if that is where your leak is coming from but I would change them to the band clamps for Pex.
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Old 05-08-2021, 06:46 AM   #5
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I thought of that but leaving them is the only way to remove that valve. They have always been there. The leak is actually in the threads to that valve. I can actually remove the hose clamp on the right and still have no leak from it.
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Old 05-08-2021, 07:34 AM   #6
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I’ve experienced a similar leak in the past, what has been successful for me was to use the pipe thread sealant sparingly and also wrap with the tape.
Give that a try and see if that helps. Now this is a soft set so it might give you a few drops of water till it finds the imperfection in the brass but it should do the trick.
True, hose clamps aren’t recommended but if yours are drip free along with your pressure regulator you “ might” be fine.
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Old 05-08-2021, 08:45 AM   #7
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Tunce,

I will try some pipe thread sealant. I might even have some in the camper. I think the clamps are "ok" because the nipple on the adapter is super tight.

It's mostly annoying because the camper is seasonally parked and when we arrive and I turn the water on it's fine then hot water tank heats and I get enough drops to notice that its damp under the valve. By end of first night the drips have "stopped" and are slow or sealed enough that its "dry" under the valve. Then repeat next weekend.


Each attempt at fix means drain hot water tank, wait a bit so it won't run out when I remove the valve side then wait tto see if we have any drip.
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Old 05-08-2021, 09:00 AM   #8
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Use a combination of pipe dope and Teflon tape. My pipe fitter coworkers, say to use the dope first, than the tape. I do it the other way around and have not had any issues.

I too would recommend replacing the radiator clamps. Even if you slip them on, and not clamp them until you get your thread issue repaired.
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Old 05-12-2021, 02:39 AM   #9
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I thought of that but leaving them is the only way to remove that valve. They have always been there. The leak is actually in the threads to that valve. I can actually remove the hose clamp on the right and still have no leak from it.
If you can't get the leak to stop with various sealants, consider doing it the "right" way. It'd cost about $35 and a little bit of your time in exchange for not having to fuss with it any more:

If you're not taking that valve out regularly, then there's no reason to need quick removal with hose clamps. That line is under pressure and I certainly wouldn't trust hose clamps to hold the rigid plastic of PEX pipes onto fittings. If it's ever necessary to remove the valve, you can cut the PEX clamp with dykes.
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Old 05-12-2021, 04:04 AM   #10
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I agree with marcm157 , these screws clamps that you use are not good for the pex pipe, I have similar issues with a connection to the elbow connect to our water pump, we have a continuous drip of water until an rv tech, remove it and replace it by some water pressure clamp, for pex .
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Old 05-12-2021, 08:06 AM   #11
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Replace it with a SharkBite valve. Possibly replace the elbow to the right with one too.
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Old 05-12-2021, 06:25 PM   #12
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Replace it with a SharkBite valve. Possibly replace the elbow to the right with one too.
Thatís the best plan.
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Old 05-12-2021, 07:33 PM   #13
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replace it with a sharkbite valve. Possibly replace the elbow to the right with one too.
x2 - $15.00 & change at Amazon
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Old 05-19-2021, 12:20 PM   #14
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What in trailer park heaven is that! Barbed fittings DO NOT belong in Pex tubing! This WILL fail over time! Why not just get the proper pex valve and a couple of pex cinch clamps and do it RIGHT? If you are going to work on your own plumbing, a Pex Tool in your box is a must have....
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Old 05-20-2021, 09:46 AM   #15
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Replace it with a SharkBite valve. Possibly replace the elbow to the right with one too.
Concur, I had a similar problem when i replaced the one way valve on my hot water heater. I tried teflon tape and plumbers putty. Only thing that stopped the leak was putting in a new pex connector. Like many have already said, I'd replace the hose clamps with pex pinch clamps as well. They're easy enough to remove.
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Old 05-21-2021, 05:36 PM   #16
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NPT (National Pipe Thread) is TAPERED,and SEAL is on the threads. WHERE MANY PLUMBING FITTINGS including plastics/ nylon are NOT tapered AND are designed on using a RUBBER GASKET, e.g. hose connections? MOST Plastic/ nylon, (designed for rubber seal) if used/ tightened too much CRACK... and Many times, those cracks are not evident UNTIL system is under water pressure. If those nylon fittings are hose barb x NON-tapered, try finding NPT x PEX? (maybe in BRASS?) An example of NON tapered is 1/2" FAUCET connections (underneath) that use rubber tapered washers, or molded tapered PEX tubing.
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