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Old 05-26-2015, 11:21 PM   #21
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Do you have an outside shower head with the same type of shower head with on/off button?

Signing off for now good luck I'll check in the morning to see if you figured it out. Other members may have some advice
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Old 05-27-2015, 11:51 AM   #22
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Red - any progress?
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Old 05-27-2015, 11:54 AM   #23
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Hey Jim. I do have the rear shower which of course I forgot all about and did not do any prep for winterizing on it which concerns me. I'm not too concerned though as I don't have any leaks and I have the tank full and I have tried hooking it up to city water too and no leaks..... I cant look at it until tonight so stay tuned!!!
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Old 05-27-2015, 12:02 PM   #24
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Ok- good deal I'm just dieing to know the cause
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Old 05-27-2015, 12:03 PM   #25
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You and me both buddy!
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Old 05-27-2015, 12:12 PM   #26
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.... and I'll bet there are many like me that would like to know, too ...
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Old 05-27-2015, 12:16 PM   #27
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Something is allowing hot water to flow back through the cold water lines. There are only two thing I can think of:

Tank bypass
Shower Head (s) closed with faucets open.

I think the thread got confused when the pump was running trying to fill the hot water tank. Once filled and air bled from tank I think that was resolved.
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Old 05-27-2015, 12:18 PM   #28
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Red66GT, I'm going to suggest that you turn off the pump, turn off the water heater, disconnect the city water and go over your water system completely and shut off every single faucet and valve.


That will start you at zero. The system will not function.


Then, open the two valves that connect the water heater to the cold water (in) and hot water (out) lines. That will put the water heater in SUMMER mode.


At the water pump open the valve between the pump intake and the water tank.


That will set you up with a fully functional water system (if there are no leaks).


Now connect city water and wait for the RV's system to pressurize.


Crack open the HOT water faucet that is FURTHEST from the water heater. You will get lots of air. After the bulk of the air is bled out, open it a little more and run it until no more air presents itself (expect a minute or so of running). Close the hot faucet and crack open the COLD side. Again let the air out easy and then bleed off the rest. Close the cold faucet. Repeat hot then cold at all faucets (and the toilet) twice or three times until every last bit of air has been bled out.


Then disconnect the city water line and use it to fill your water tank with sanitizing solution.


Turn on the pump. Open the cold faucet nearest the pump to bleed off the air from the intake and output of the pump.


Run every faucet (both hot and cold) until you smell chorine. Let it sit overnight.


----


Dump the remaining sanitizing solution. Refill with fresh water.


Run each faucet for a minute to clear the sanitizer. Note how the pump starts within a second of opening a faucet and stops within 2 or 3. If you have a leak the pump will cycle while no water has been used. If you have air, the pump will wait several seconds to start and then even longer to recompress the air.




----------


Again, it is very important that:
1) Restart at zero. You can always get back there and try again.
2) Review several different RV water system diagrams. Try to understand what each valve does and how it relates to the adjacent valves. The hot water bypass can be very confusing!


Good Luck
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Old 05-27-2015, 04:20 PM   #29
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Mike. Brilliant. My biggest problem is that with everything in the universe available on the internet, I cannot find a schematic of the plumbing in my specific trailer.


However, I now have another problem. Stopped by at lunchtime to check the rear shower and it is working the same way as the rest of the trailer.

So I decided to check each and every valve to make sure they are opened or closed. First one I try is the valve at the top of the water heater and.......the knob came off in my hand! These valves are such cheap pieces of ****. And of course I do not know if this valve is now in the open or closed position.

In the pics you can see the valve handle, and the arrow shows the fitting that the valve handle twisted out of (it's on the top so you cant see where it came out of the valve). This photo is looking up from under my main sink.

And, I figured that the top hose going to the water heater would be the cold inlet and the bottom would be the hot outlet. All of the pics of water heaters I see on the internet show the top as the hot outlet?! This doesn't make sense to me.......

So, now my next step is to replace the valve.
Do I need to bend those metal clamps off around the hoses?
Then replace with regular hose clamps?
Or do you use wrenches to remove the brass valve and leave those hose clamps intact?

Also, who sources these? My trailer is only a 2012 and I cant even find a picture that even closely resembles one of these valves!!!

Thanks guys. Getting pretty frustrated at this point.
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Old 05-27-2015, 04:30 PM   #30
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"....If it weren't for bad luck, Id have not luck at all..."

Those clamps are generally once and done unless you have a special tool. That's ok - a normal automotive hose clamp works just fine.

A valve is a valve, so long as it is the right inner or outer diameter - home depot or Lowes is your friend. Take the assembly with you, including hose to get the right size
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