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Old 05-24-2016, 11:12 AM   #11
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I level side-to-side with orange blocks blocks and front-to-back with tongue jack. then use a DeWalt 1/4" impact driver and run jacks down until it just starts to "impact". Then go around and snug them up with the crank the next morning.

Also, I am experimenting with different stabilizer options to get the best result. as of now, I have removed the JT Strongarm bars and started using using the X-Chocks (and regular wheel chocks). So far, the JT's work much better. The X-Chocks help quite a bit but there is still more movement than I like. Looks like I will be re-installing the JT's and testing the combination of the two. My first thought was worrying about the weight but as usual, I over-think it.
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Old 05-24-2016, 02:56 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Bassdogs View Post
What drill are you using? Mine is a 18v Hitachi with more torque than any of the other drills I have owned. It will take the brace to the ground block and get a slight rise in that corner but that's it. Others have reported a similar result. I did some research a couple years ago when I sought input in upgrading to a new cordless. The Hitachi was highly recommended.
It is just an 18 volt lithium ion Makita. It is a very nice drill. The Hitachi's are very nice as well.

I have a feeling your drill would just keep lifting the trailer until the jack was maxed out. It doesnt take much torque/effort, and your drill should have a lot of torque.
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Old 05-24-2016, 02:57 PM   #13
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We bought a inexpensive Black and Decker drill with and adjustable chuck(the kind that slips so you don't strip out screws). After some trail and error I found a good setting that just snugs the jacks up. Now when the trailer gets some movement, I can just hit the loose jacks with the drill and they all have the same tension.
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Old 05-24-2016, 06:16 PM   #14
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We bought a inexpensive Black and Decker drill with and adjustable chuck(the kind that slips so you don't strip out screws). After some trail and error I found a good setting that just snugs the jacks up. Now when the trailer gets some movement, I can just hit the loose jacks with the drill and they all have the same tension.
I am liking that idea!
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Old 05-24-2016, 10:21 PM   #15
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Just a question, has anybody read the instruction sheet for the Jacks to see how much pressure you can do.
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Old 05-24-2016, 11:05 PM   #16
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Not me. Haven't seen one.
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Old 05-25-2016, 07:27 AM   #17
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Just to make a point, when I picked my White Hawk after final warrantee service, the dealer had dropped the TT in the side lot without putting a riser block under the tongue jack. As a result I couldn't raise it high enough to get it on my hitch. He said no problem, put down the front corner jacks, retracted the tongue jack and placed a 5x5 block under it, and then raised it all high enough to connect to the hitch. He used the corner jacks to support the entire weight of the front of the TT although he said not to leave it that way for any longer than necessary. The point here is you are not going to damage your frame by torqueing the supports with a drill or the hand crank.

Get it firm to the ground and then give it a couple half turns. Adjust more as it settles on a soft pad. I challenge anyone to lift the wheels of their TT off the ground using an 18v drill. Will look forward to seeing the video.
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Old 05-25-2016, 07:45 AM   #18
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I suspect you are right. Solid firm tension is not going to damage the trailer and plan to put a bit more on mine as I did on this trip. Made a difference. Likely the "disclaimer" to not level your trailer with them is because people would use them to try and jack it up or offset for some seriously sloped pads and then leave them, or actually try and jack up the wheels rather than use blocks under the wheels. I can see people putting blocks under the jacks and then trying to lift one side up, wheels and all. That seems would cause some serious damage.
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Old 05-25-2016, 08:52 AM   #19
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Different TT's have different load ratings for the stabilizers. The scissor type stab jacks on out TT are rated at 7500 lbs. according to the literature. Not sure why so heavy, as the whole thing is 6200 lbs. if loaded to max! We get it as close as we can with Lynx Levelers, and if it's 1/2 a bubble off, the jacks easily take it to zero level. After they hit the ground, it ends up about one or two turns on each to get it rock solid. I, too, have dropped the fronts down to hold the TT, while changing the tongue jack to a power one. I probably would not do any of that if they were the single arm type "C" type jacks.
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Old 05-25-2016, 12:26 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassdogs View Post
Just to make a point, when I picked my White Hawk after final warrantee service, the dealer had dropped the TT in the side lot without putting a riser block under the tongue jack. As a result I couldn't raise it high enough to get it on my hitch. He said no problem, put down the front corner jacks, retracted the tongue jack and placed a 5x5 block under it, and then raised it all high enough to connect to the hitch. He used the corner jacks to support the entire weight of the front of the TT although he said not to leave it that way for any longer than necessary. The point here is you are not going to damage your frame by torqueing the supports with a drill or the hand crank.

Get it firm to the ground and then give it a couple half turns. Adjust more as it settles on a soft pad. I challenge anyone to lift the wheels of their TT off the ground using an 18v drill. Will look forward to seeing the video.
I dont think the scissor jacks have anywhere near enough height available to lift the tires off the ground... otherwise I would be tempted to show you such a video. Well, maybe they do if the blocking is high enough that they are touching them well fully retracted... hmmmmmm

I am not worried too much about damaging the frame in the first place. But, cranking one side down at a time and lifting just that one corner several inches or more could potentially tweak stuff enough where doors or windows may not operate correctly. But even so, fairly unlikely.
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