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Old 05-23-2016, 07:14 PM   #1
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How much tension on stabilizer jacks?

I've done some searches but got a bit overwhelmed trying to sort out where I might find what I am looking for. Question - how "tight" should I screw down the stabilizer jacks on my trailer? I know it's a subjective response but I was warned not to use them for leveling, which I don't, so perhaps I am being overly cautious in how much tension I put on them. I find that at the end of the day a couple of them may actually be loose and need another turn to get them tight again. I don't want to bend the frame but want to get as much sway as I can out of the trailer. I've started looking at the numerous stabilizer options listed here and may end up getting one. It's not bad re sway but my wife is asking if it can be a bit more stable than it is. Can I torque them down tight to the ground without causing damage? I know the longer they travel to the ground the more sway.
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Old 05-23-2016, 07:36 PM   #2
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I level side to side with wheel blocks and then front to rear with the front tongue jack. Once that is done I set the corner jacks to perfectively center the bubble on the rear of the TT and then do the same on the front. I apply enough tension to tighten the frame adding a crank or two on side showing a fraction of a bubble low. If the bubble is perfect I tighten both sides equally to a tension where the crank is firm. Usually this needs to be further tightened the next morning especially if not set up on pavement. Keep in mind these jacks are stabilizers not actual lifting jacks. The TTweight is still sitting on the axle springs. The balancing maneuver I utilizes simply transfers a little weight from one side to the other and is only used to adjust a small fraction of the bubble. You should be able to get pretty close to a dead center side to side balance with a combination of blocks of varying thickness. As far as how much tension, I start out with what an 18v drill will deliver all the way around and then adjust from there.
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Old 05-23-2016, 08:07 PM   #3
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Like bassdogs, I use the drill to lower the jacks onto wooden blocks and then tighten with the crank about 1 more turn. Then, after running out the slide, my non-slide side jacks have loosened and I tighten them again with the drill and 1 more turn with the crank.

Even if you tightened the stabilizer jacks MUCH TOO TIGHT (I'm not sure what ' torque them down tight to the ground' means to you), you will still have trailer movement.

Trailer movement can be reduced a bit by using blocks under the jacks so the jacks are not extended as far; that helps a bit. I, and others, added x-chocks (mine are Camco brand) between the tires and those helped reduce movement a lot more than expected. There is still movement, but the DW and I are OK with it. In the quest to stop the trailer from moving, some folks add diagonal bracing ('Strong Arm' is one brand) between the jacks and some install two more stabilizer jacks near the center of the trailer frame.

I hope this helps a bit. Trailer movement is normal. It's a personal thing to determine how much movement is OK.
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Old 05-23-2016, 08:37 PM   #4
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I just went outside and gave them each a bit more tension. Much better - not much sway or bounce at all now. I do have screw chocks between the wheels on both sides. Did you say you tighten them as much as your cordless drill can deliver and then a bit more? I don't go near that tight. I use the cordless drill to simply get them to the ground faster then barely tight with the drill. I give them a bit of a turn by hand to finish off. The frame "creaks" just a bit which has been my signal to stop.
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Old 05-23-2016, 08:54 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by suzhou View Post
I just went outside and gave them each a bit more tension. Much better - not much sway or bounce at all now....snip
I'd say you've won!

Regarding my cordless drill: It moves the stabilizers fast, but I don't believe it has much torque. All I really use it for is to get the jacks down to contact the wood much faster than I can do by hand. After that, I use the crank for an additional turn.
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Old 05-23-2016, 09:26 PM   #6
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These responses sound spot on, in my opinion, on how to operate the scissor jacks.

Well... except for the drill part I guess. I dont know what brand drill you guy's are using, but I am pretty sure mine would just keep raising the trailer until the scissor jack was topped out... unless I put the clutch setting on a ridiculously low number. I just use it to get them down to the blocking and once I hear creaking I stop. From there I adjust with the handheld crank handle if needed.
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Old 05-23-2016, 09:27 PM   #7
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If you really want your trailer to be solid spend $80 and do what I did.

http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=28130

Works amazingly well, virtually eliminates any side to side movement.

From my Note 5
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Old 05-23-2016, 09:28 PM   #8
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If you really want your trailer to be solid spend $80 and do what I did.

http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=28130

Works amazingly well, virtually eliminates any side to side movement.

From my Note 5
Well that is an awesome idea! Thanks for sharing!
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Old 05-24-2016, 07:15 AM   #9
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These responses sound spot on, in my opinion, on how to operate the scissor jacks.

Well... except for the drill part I guess. I dont know what brand drill you guy's are using, but I am pretty sure mine would just keep raising the trailer until the scissor jack was topped out... unless I put the clutch setting on a ridiculously low number. I just use it to get them down to the blocking and once I hear creaking I stop. From there I adjust with the handheld crank handle if needed.
What drill are you using? Mine is a 18v Hitachi with more torque than any of the other drills I have owned. It will take the brace to the ground block and get a slight rise in that corner but that's it. Others have reported a similar result. I did some research a couple years ago when I sought input in upgrading to a new cordless. The Hitachi was highly recommended.
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Old 05-24-2016, 09:29 AM   #10
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I might look at that drill. For now I simply have my black and decker 20V cordless and agree, it would crank the thing far too tight unless I put it on one of clutch settings, which I might do since it's an extra I had in my shop. Something smaller that only has enough torque for the job might be worth picking up. Will think on it but if what I have works then I may not want to over think it at this point. With the bit of extra tension last night and both wheel chocks in I seem to be stable enough for now.
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Old 05-24-2016, 10:12 AM   #11
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I level side-to-side with orange blocks blocks and front-to-back with tongue jack. then use a DeWalt 1/4" impact driver and run jacks down until it just starts to "impact". Then go around and snug them up with the crank the next morning.

Also, I am experimenting with different stabilizer options to get the best result. as of now, I have removed the JT Strongarm bars and started using using the X-Chocks (and regular wheel chocks). So far, the JT's work much better. The X-Chocks help quite a bit but there is still more movement than I like. Looks like I will be re-installing the JT's and testing the combination of the two. My first thought was worrying about the weight but as usual, I over-think it.
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Old 05-24-2016, 01:56 PM   #12
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What drill are you using? Mine is a 18v Hitachi with more torque than any of the other drills I have owned. It will take the brace to the ground block and get a slight rise in that corner but that's it. Others have reported a similar result. I did some research a couple years ago when I sought input in upgrading to a new cordless. The Hitachi was highly recommended.
It is just an 18 volt lithium ion Makita. It is a very nice drill. The Hitachi's are very nice as well.

I have a feeling your drill would just keep lifting the trailer until the jack was maxed out. It doesnt take much torque/effort, and your drill should have a lot of torque.
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Old 05-24-2016, 01:57 PM   #13
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We bought a inexpensive Black and Decker drill with and adjustable chuck(the kind that slips so you don't strip out screws). After some trail and error I found a good setting that just snugs the jacks up. Now when the trailer gets some movement, I can just hit the loose jacks with the drill and they all have the same tension.
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Old 05-24-2016, 05:16 PM   #14
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We bought a inexpensive Black and Decker drill with and adjustable chuck(the kind that slips so you don't strip out screws). After some trail and error I found a good setting that just snugs the jacks up. Now when the trailer gets some movement, I can just hit the loose jacks with the drill and they all have the same tension.
I am liking that idea!
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Old 05-24-2016, 09:21 PM   #15
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Just a question, has anybody read the instruction sheet for the Jacks to see how much pressure you can do.
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Old 05-24-2016, 10:05 PM   #16
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Not me. Haven't seen one.
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Old 05-25-2016, 06:27 AM   #17
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Just to make a point, when I picked my White Hawk after final warrantee service, the dealer had dropped the TT in the side lot without putting a riser block under the tongue jack. As a result I couldn't raise it high enough to get it on my hitch. He said no problem, put down the front corner jacks, retracted the tongue jack and placed a 5x5 block under it, and then raised it all high enough to connect to the hitch. He used the corner jacks to support the entire weight of the front of the TT although he said not to leave it that way for any longer than necessary. The point here is you are not going to damage your frame by torqueing the supports with a drill or the hand crank.

Get it firm to the ground and then give it a couple half turns. Adjust more as it settles on a soft pad. I challenge anyone to lift the wheels of their TT off the ground using an 18v drill. Will look forward to seeing the video.
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Old 05-25-2016, 06:45 AM   #18
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I suspect you are right. Solid firm tension is not going to damage the trailer and plan to put a bit more on mine as I did on this trip. Made a difference. Likely the "disclaimer" to not level your trailer with them is because people would use them to try and jack it up or offset for some seriously sloped pads and then leave them, or actually try and jack up the wheels rather than use blocks under the wheels. I can see people putting blocks under the jacks and then trying to lift one side up, wheels and all. That seems would cause some serious damage.
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Old 05-25-2016, 07:52 AM   #19
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Different TT's have different load ratings for the stabilizers. The scissor type stab jacks on out TT are rated at 7500 lbs. according to the literature. Not sure why so heavy, as the whole thing is 6200 lbs. if loaded to max! We get it as close as we can with Lynx Levelers, and if it's 1/2 a bubble off, the jacks easily take it to zero level. After they hit the ground, it ends up about one or two turns on each to get it rock solid. I, too, have dropped the fronts down to hold the TT, while changing the tongue jack to a power one. I probably would not do any of that if they were the single arm type "C" type jacks.
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Old 05-25-2016, 11:26 AM   #20
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Just to make a point, when I picked my White Hawk after final warrantee service, the dealer had dropped the TT in the side lot without putting a riser block under the tongue jack. As a result I couldn't raise it high enough to get it on my hitch. He said no problem, put down the front corner jacks, retracted the tongue jack and placed a 5x5 block under it, and then raised it all high enough to connect to the hitch. He used the corner jacks to support the entire weight of the front of the TT although he said not to leave it that way for any longer than necessary. The point here is you are not going to damage your frame by torqueing the supports with a drill or the hand crank.

Get it firm to the ground and then give it a couple half turns. Adjust more as it settles on a soft pad. I challenge anyone to lift the wheels of their TT off the ground using an 18v drill. Will look forward to seeing the video.
I dont think the scissor jacks have anywhere near enough height available to lift the tires off the ground... otherwise I would be tempted to show you such a video. Well, maybe they do if the blocking is high enough that they are touching them well fully retracted... hmmmmmm

I am not worried too much about damaging the frame in the first place. But, cranking one side down at a time and lifting just that one corner several inches or more could potentially tweak stuff enough where doors or windows may not operate correctly. But even so, fairly unlikely.
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