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Old 01-16-2016, 08:56 AM   #1
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How To - install external levels?

This year I dealt with an unleveled trailer due to not knowing how to install the external levels. How do I know when the trailer is level, so that I can install the levels? They have a sticky backing, but I never know that I am in a level position to apply them.

This year I want to be smarter about my initial setup and leveling efforts for added comfort.

I appreciate any feedback and direction.
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Old 01-16-2016, 09:17 AM   #2
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Here's how I've done it....may be other ways but worked for me.

Get a 4 or 6 foot level and use it to check the level of your trailer. I level front to back first then side to side.
Once it's level (I check at several locations), then you can apply your sticky backed level on the rig as level.

Hope that helps
Good luck and happy camping
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Old 01-16-2016, 09:33 AM   #3
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Depends on what you want level. Pretty good chance that if you have it level based on the floor, the counters won't be level. Pick what you want to be level and set it to that. Some do the floor, some do the counters, some do the stove top, some to the freezer floor. Any of them are close enough.

Like said above, adjust until you are level (one direction at a time) then carefully stick the external levels on, making sure they read level while being applied to the level rig. Close is good enough, you aren't building a watch.
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Old 01-16-2016, 10:15 AM   #4
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It's the RV refrigerators which need to be as close to level as possible. However, counter tops, stove top floor; all will get you close enough for the purpose of your refrigerator running properly. I like to set a level on the floor as close to center of the rig as possible. First, I work on leveling side to side. This is in case I need to use leveling blocks or boards under the tires. Then, I work the front to rear. Once all is level, I check it at several points and angles.

After you are satisfied, grab some rubbing alcohol and thoroughly clean the surface area of the RV where you are going to stick the external levels. I have lost an external level which was stuck on with sticky tape because I did not clean the surface of all waxes.

I put the one which shows the side to side level at a point where I can see it in my drivers side mirror on my TV when I am parking it. The other (for front to rear) I place on the side close to the front corner so when I am unhooking it is easy to peak at it. Many people all have different methods and placements which work for them. If they work they are not wrong.
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Old 01-16-2016, 10:16 AM   #5
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When I had a bumper pull trailer, I just stuck the levels on the top of the frame, near the jack.

On my current fifth wheel, the dealer put some of those screw-on levels on the outside walls, near the jack control. I've never even bothered to verify if they are level or not. I never hit exactly dead center of the level anyway (side to side), so it really doesn't matter all that much.
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Old 01-16-2016, 10:16 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnolia Tom View Post
Here's how I've done it....may be other ways but worked for me.

Get a 4 or 6 foot level and use it to check the level of your trailer. I level front to back first then side to side.
Once it's level (I check at several locations), then you can apply your sticky backed level on the rig as level.

Hope that helps
Good luck and happy camping
X2

One thing I noticed about the cheap stick on level is they can move slightly after you install them. Like if someone brushes up against it, or one of my kids touches/moves it. I keep a level in the camper and use the exterior stick on bubbles as a guide.
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Old 01-17-2016, 02:45 PM   #7
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I like the big level with the silver ball in it for side to side level mounted on the driver side front of the trailer. That way I can simply put my Anderson levelers under the tires on the low side, pull forward while looking in the driverside rearview mirror. When the ball gets to the center I stop, chock the wheels and unhitch. I then use the tongue jack to get front to back level using the small level attached to the large side to side level.

For initial installation you have to get the trailer level as others have explained. The level I bought I mounted using screws instead of sticky tape.
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Old 01-17-2016, 06:23 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnolia Tom View Post
Here's how I've done it....may be other ways but worked for me.

Get a 4 or 6 foot level and use it to check the level of your trailer. I level front to back first then side to side.
Once it's level (I check at several locations), then you can apply your sticky backed level on the rig as level.

Hope that helps
Good luck and happy camping
X3

Remember to use rubbing alcohol to clean the surface you're going to stick the level to or you're likely to lose it. My preference is the sticky vs screw on levels as I don't want to put holes in the rig
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Old 01-24-2016, 09:22 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnolia Tom View Post
Here's how I've done it....may be other ways but worked for me.

Get a 4 or 6 foot level and use it to check the level of your trailer. I level front to back first then side to side.
Once it's level (I check at several locations), then you can apply your sticky backed level on the rig as level.

Hope that helps
Good luck and happy camping
Odd ball like normal, I do side to side then front to back. with the 4ft & Keep a small 6" magnetic level on the stove hood and check the counter tops or stove from time to time to insure the outside bubbles are still close.
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Old 01-24-2016, 10:58 PM   #10
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I brought a two foot level with me on a trip. Used blocks to get it close, from side to side. Leveled front to back. Made sure my slide was out. Then I got my tire changing jack out, leveled it really close side to side. Checked front to back again. Then applied my bubble level. While I did the fine leveling, everyone was banned from the htt for a few minutes so it did not bounce.

Hardest part was getting the jack In and out.
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Old 01-25-2016, 06:05 AM   #11
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X3

Remember to use rubbing alcohol to clean the surface you're going to stick the level to or you're likely to lose it. My preference is the sticky vs screw on levels as I don't want to put holes in the rig
X4
Works every time and definitely close enough for government work. I have camped in some really unlevel sites and have never been off enough that refrigerator would not work.
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Old 01-25-2016, 10:40 AM   #12
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The only problem I have with sticky tape is that once you stick it you can't move it. The level I used has slots for the screws so you still have some adjustment to fine tune if needed. My trailer already has about 600 screws thru the trim, wall connections and roof attachments that the manufacturer put in. I figure 2 more won't really cause that much of a problem.
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Old 01-27-2016, 02:43 PM   #13
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I had been thinking about doing this also, but like some said i usually bring a 3/4 ft leveler. Someone tell me if this is wrong, i put trailer on the pad i throw the level on the floor and get side to side close as possible (with slide in) then do front to back, put jack down then recheck, then put slide out, am i doing it wrong?
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Old 01-27-2016, 11:44 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by texanrebel View Post
I had been thinking about doing this also, but like some said i usually bring a 3/4 ft leveler. Someone tell me if this is wrong, i put trailer on the pad i throw the level on the floor and get side to side close as possible (with slide in) then do front to back, put jack down then recheck, then put slide out, am i doing it wrong?
That sounds right.
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Old 02-02-2016, 04:31 PM   #15
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When I towed our pop up I carried a 3' Stanley level with us all the time, funny thing about it I didnt realize it had a magnetic strip until the third excursion. Since then it's been on everytrip and I attach it to the trailer frame for side to side and front to back and have always been dead on. When I do check for side to side I compensate for the slide being extended as well.
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Old 02-03-2016, 07:45 AM   #16
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Side to side then front to back. I use a 2 ft level in the middle of the outside wall and my Anderson wheel chocks. I double checked all different ways to make sure it was leveled out before making this my short cut. As most all stated you aren't building a house just need to have the fridge the most leveled for it to work. I also do not compensate for the slide out Jayco builds the newer units so the weight isn't much of a factor once extended.
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Old 02-03-2016, 11:47 AM   #17
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I use an iPad placed in the center of the RV. There are level apps that will tell you how many degrees you are off by to at least one significant figure. For an 8 foot wide trailer, each degree you are off by is about 0.84 inches. I can get it nearly perfect the first attempt.
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