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Old 04-28-2014, 04:09 PM   #11
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In the past I've used stick-on & screw-on bubble levels & even the rolling ball levels, but my preference is a carpenters level (mine is 24") placed inside the door for side to side and front to back leveling. It may just be a matter of what you think works best for you. The large rolling ball in liquid level that mounts on the front of the RV is convenient in that sometimes you can level the trailer by simply moving forward or backwards a little while watching the ball in your rearview mirror and not have to mess with leveling ramps.
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Old 04-28-2014, 05:31 PM   #12
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My routine...(FWIW)

When my TT is placed (after checking the distances to the hook-ups) - I hop out and put a 2' level on the rear bumper (@ every 1/4" out of level in 2' = 1 Lynx Block under the low side wheel(s)). Throw down the Lynx Blocks (if needed) and back on. Chock the ground wheel(s), unhitch, throw the 2' level on the A-frame and level front to back with the tongue jack.

The 2' level fits perfect in my Entertainment Cabinet just inside the door.
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Old 04-28-2014, 11:10 PM   #13
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Always use a 4' level inside the door as I too have had trouble with bubble levels on the corners.
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Old 04-29-2014, 12:00 AM   #14
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If it's an over night stop I use the stick on levels. When we stay for a while I use the 3 footer.
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Old 04-29-2014, 08:28 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle View Post
I use a 3' level on my floor just inside my entry door...., haven't had good luck with those stick-on bubble levels. Use the same level for side-to-side as well.

Bob
x3, but I use a small Stanley torpedo level instead- conveniently stored in one of the kitchen drawers.

However, my true test for whether the coach is level is rather unconventional, but requires no level at all.

For front-to-back leveling, I open my entrance door perpendicular (90 degrees) to the side of the TT. If the door:
  • Swings to the front- Raise the front.
  • Swings to the rear- Lower the front
  • Doesn't swing at all- Either you're level or the door needs lubricated.

For side-to-side leveling, find a cabinet that's mounted on a width wall of your coach (I use the medicine cabinet that's in the bathroom on the rear wall of my TT) and, again, open its door perpendicular (90 degrees) to the side of the TT. If the door:
  • Swings to the left (driver's side) of the coach- Raise the left side.
  • Swings to the right (passenger's side) of the coach- Raise the right side.
  • Doesn't swing at all- Either you're level or the door needs lubricated.
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Old 04-29-2014, 08:33 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by FPM III View Post
x3, but I use a small Stanley torpedo level instead- conveniently stored in one of the kitchen drawers.

However, my true test for whether the coach is level is rather unconventional, but requires no level at all.

For front-to-back leveling, I open my entrance door perpendicular (90 degrees) to the side of the TT. If the door:
  • Swings to the front- Raise the front.
  • Swings to the rear- Lower the front
  • Doesn't swing at all- Either you're level or the door needs lubricated.

For side-to-side leveling, find a cabinet that's mounted on a width wall of your coach (I use the medicine cabinet that's in the bathroom on the rear wall of my TT) and, again, open its door perpendicular (90 degrees) to the side of the TT. If the door:
  • Swings to the left (driver's side) of the coach- Raise the left side.
  • Swings to the right (passenger's side) of the coach- Raise the right side.
  • Doesn't swing at all- Either you're level or the door needs lubricated.
Good method. Except that you can't guarantee the cabinets that the doors were mounted to were installed plumb and level with the floor. You'd like to hope so, but you never know (unless you measure), so the floor really is the best place to determine the rig's true level.
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Old 04-29-2014, 12:11 PM   #17
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I just put a 2-way level on the hitch after leveling the camper side to side and front to rear using a carpenters level on the floor. I didn't use the A frame coupler for level indiction because it was off from the floor. I did compare the A frame rails to the floor and they indicated the same.

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Old 04-29-2014, 02:44 PM   #18
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I wouldn't rely on the disc level on the tongue jack. It may tell you if the jack is level, but will rarely give an accurate reading for the rest of the trailer. And I wouldn't use a level on either the dinette table or the countertops, as they might not be level with the floor. The trailer floor between the tongue jack and the axel(s) is the best spot to place your level, provided your floor does not have swells, blisters, or other ridges that will throw the level off. I carry both a 7" torpedo level and a 2' carpenters level. The 2' carpenters level is more accurate than the torpedo, yet still stores well, and fits better in tight RV floor spaces than a 4'r. For quick leveling while in the driveway for packing/unpacking, I use the torpedo level just because it's easy. For longer stays, I use the 2'er, because I want it a little "truer" - mainly for comfort. Personal comfort is the main reason we want our rigs level, and some people are more sensitive to "out-of-level" than others. Proper leveling is important for proper refrigerator operation, but todays RV refers allow for pretty liberal deviation from true level. (See your owners manual for allowances.) Other leveling concerns are proper door operation, alignment & latch operation, and proper sink and tub/shower drainage. In my old trailer, I found both my kitchen sink and bathtub would drain better if the nose was slightly higher and there was a slight downhill slope toward the door. I don't have enough experience in the new one to know for sure, but I suspect nose slightly high and level side-to-side will work best.

I guess you asked what time it was, and I sort of told you how to build a clock. Just pick up a moderately-priced level and play around with it. After a few outings, you'll see what works best for your camper and your campers.

Happy Camping!
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Old 04-29-2014, 07:59 PM   #19
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the leveler on the power jack is a joke!
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Old 05-08-2014, 01:48 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Camper_bob View Post
Good method. Except that you can't guarantee the cabinets that the doors were mounted to were installed plumb and level with the floor. You'd like to hope so, but you never know (unless you measure), so the floor really is the best place to determine the rig's true level.
I usually do use the floor when leveling and there is a difference in readings between it and the countertop of my galley. Based on that, the best advice I could recommend is to use whatever is known to be level in your coach- whether it be the floor or something else.
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