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Old 12-24-2021, 01:10 PM   #21
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I seen on some post that insulation is in bottom of RV. I have cut my bottom open in two places (big cuts). The only thing in bottom of my unit is a thin layer of silver foil looking like thin bubble wrap. Years ago I had insulation added to my last house. The company blowing it in had a small tube to get into the eves from outside. I wonder if I cut small flaps in the bottom I can get blown in insulation. Anyone try that.
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Old 12-25-2021, 09:33 PM   #22
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Oscillating Multi-tool probably best?
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Old 12-27-2021, 06:26 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Rock View Post
I seen on some post that insulation is in bottom of RV. I have cut my bottom open in two places (big cuts). The only thing in bottom of my unit is a thin layer of silver foil looking like thin bubble wrap. Years ago I had insulation added to my last house. The company blowing it in had a small tube to get into the eves from outside. I wonder if I cut small flaps in the bottom I can get blown in insulation. Anyone try that.
I haven't tried that, but I have the same bubble-type silver insulation in the underbelly and in the roof. Matter of fact, I used the metallic roof insulation as a ground plane for my ICOM-2730 ;-)

I have used the expandy-foam from True Value for sealing up some holes near the drain pipes. Works pretty well.

If you decide to pump the bottom full of foam, keep in mind that is where the loosely laid wires are located and you'll essentially seal it shut. May make troubleshooting down the road a PITA.
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Old 12-27-2021, 06:58 AM   #24
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I haven't tried that, but I have the same bubble-type silver insulation in the underbelly and in the roof. Matter of fact, I used the metallic roof insulation as a ground plane for my ICOM-2730 ;-)

I have used the expandy-foam from True Value for sealing up some holes near the drain pipes. Works pretty well.

If you decide to pump the bottom full of foam, keep in mind that is where the loosely laid wires are located and you'll essentially seal it shut. May make troubleshooting down the road a PITA.
I had no choice but to completely seal the underbelly due to rodent intrusion. Mice were easily getting inside the trailer from all of the holes in the underbelly. It was intolerable. Apart from not wanting to live with filthy rodents, they can do a lot of damage to the wiring, water lines, and heating ducts, not to mention nesting in the furnace fan.

I used expanding foam with a rodent repellant. This worked perfectly, no more rodents. Foam was applied only to the openings along the sides and wherever else there was an opening.

I realize it will make servicing more difficult, but the foam is removable and replaceable. Given the circumstances, this was far more preferable.
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Old 12-27-2021, 07:05 AM   #25
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For those interested in what came of this thread and me needing to cut the underbelly open, I finished up the battery control mod. I needed to run a control cable through the underbelly to finish up this project.

Thread here: https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...unt-92420.html
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Old 12-27-2021, 10:02 AM   #26
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I was thinking of blown in insulation. The company who did my old house blew it in the eves with a small tube about 1 or 1 1/2 inch. I have to check with places that rent the equipment and see what they have. If I could cut small flaps down the center I could blow in the insulation. I also foamed any opening I could find but they still find ways in. Up at my camp I have scent tags under FW and spray them with bobcat pee weekly. So far that has worked.
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Old 03-02-2022, 11:37 AM   #27
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As you have found, it's difficult trying to remove (or drop) a full section of the corrugated plastic underbelly 'intact'.

I use a razor knife and carefully cut 'flap' openings (3 cuts) where I need access......, and use Gorilla tape to reseal the same 'flap' shut.

Bob
I have no end of trouble getting tape to stick to the "flaps" - anyone have other methods they have used - this is a rodent house waiting to happen if I can't get the stuff sealed back up.
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Old 03-02-2022, 11:41 AM   #28
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I have no end of trouble getting tape to stick to the "flaps" - anyone have other methods they have used - this is a rodent house waiting to happen if I can't get the stuff sealed back up.
I used the black Gorilla tape. I don't know how that stuff doesn't seal to itself because it has some serious strength. I haven't had any of the underbelly open up since I started using it. https://www.gorillatough.com/product...-gorilla-tape/
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Old 03-02-2022, 11:48 AM   #29
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I have no end of trouble getting tape to stick to the "flaps" - anyone have other methods they have used - this is a rodent house waiting to happen if I can't get the stuff sealed back up.
I went to my dealer a couple three years ago and he explained that the factory provides them with a tape. He gave me 12 feet of it for a couple of dollars. It's been two years without it letting go. Every other tape I tried let go, except one....It's the window and door flashing tape used when installing new or replacement windows. I have Grace brand that I use in my business, but it's in long rolls that are 8 to 10 inches wide. Way more expensive also. There are other brands of the same stuff at Lowes and H/D.
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Old 03-02-2022, 12:39 PM   #30
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I used zip ties, making a hole on each side of the cut and stich up the flap...then this stuff after cleaning off the area first. https://www.amazon.com/Underbelly-Ma...s%2C101&sr=8-1
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Old 03-02-2022, 06:26 PM   #31
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As mentioned earlier, start with an alcohol bath.

Then I too use gorilla or flex seal. First put it on the flap and it is easier to put some pressure on it. Then press it on the secured part.
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