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Old 11-19-2023, 07:36 PM   #1
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Inverter choice for prepped '22 Jay Feather 22rb

My new trailer has a 200 watt solar panel and 30a charge controller as well as the 'prepped for inverter' Romex loop on the ceiling of the front storage compartment.

I was shopping for an inverter with an auto-switch and something that can handle a load of (if by change they are all used at the same time) the microwave, the coffee maker and my daughters, must have, Dyson fanS.

I think I've found my winner. A quality unit by AIMS, 2000watt, pure sine wave, UL listed with a built in transfer switch. also, it can be used with a corded remote switch (optional.)

I'll buy the inverter first, install it, then next season use it with my 2 deep cycle batteries.

I also have a 210 watt portable panel I can use via my 'Solar on the Side' port, to supplement, especially while I'm still using my crappy, deep cycle lead acid batteries.

Then, when my husband isn't paying attention, I'll pick up a 100ah lithium.

If there is anyone here who has any input or critique of my choice, I'd love to hear it.
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Old 11-19-2023, 07:51 PM   #2
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That single pre wire won't handle the load from what you have listed. It's probably only a 14 guage 15 amp circuit. Is it white or yellow? White 15 amp yellow 20 amp.
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Old 11-19-2023, 08:05 PM   #3
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That single pre wire won't handle the load from what you have listed. It's probably only a 14 guage 15 amp circuit. Is it white or yellow? White 15 amp yellow 20 amp.
ok ...it is white. . ok, so I can go with a smaller unit, still run a coffee pot and fans.
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Old 11-19-2023, 08:07 PM   #4
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That single pre wire won't handle the load from what you have listed. It's probably only a 14 guage 15 amp circuit. Is it white or yellow? White 15 amp yellow 20 amp.
Wait...the bedroom outlets, TV and 12v fridge are all inverted outlets...all 15a. Not quite sure about the microwave.
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Old 11-19-2023, 08:16 PM   #5
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That single pre wire won't handle the load from what you have listed. It's probably only a 14 guage 15 amp circuit. Is it white or yellow? White 15 amp yellow 20 amp.
BUT, if I bought that inverter, I could run everything, just not at same time. BTW, I doubt microwave is on inverted outlet. Most would be TV and 2 fans at any one time.
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Old 11-19-2023, 08:25 PM   #6
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Wait...the bedroom outlets, TV and 12v fridge are all inverted outlets...all 15a. Not quite sure about the microwave.
The reason being many people use CPAP's in the bedroom which are low amp draw as are the TV's. The Micro is usually a 20 amp circuit with it's own breaker. The fridge would be a 120 if it was on the Inverter not 12. 12 volt would go directly to the fuse panel.

Look at your breaker panel and see if the micro is separate.
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Old 11-19-2023, 08:30 PM   #7
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That single pre wire won't handle the load from what you have listed. It's probably only a 14 guage 15 amp circuit. Is it white or yellow? White 15 amp yellow 20 amp.
this unit would be a good option, considering what you've advised about load on that single line...pointless to go any bigger.

It's tough to find what looks to be a decent hard wired unit. Many have only input and no output, but instead the A/C outlets. Tough to find hard wired smaller units.
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Old 11-19-2023, 09:34 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by JKyle View Post
BUT, if I bought that inverter, I could run everything, just not at same time. BTW, I doubt microwave is on inverted outlet. Most would be TV and 2 fans at any one time.
Just FYI as I am not sure if you are aware that the Jayco "prepped for inverter" connection is only for a single circuit. In other words, regardless of your inverter size you cannot power the entire RV from that romex loop . If you want to power the entire RV (all of the outlets, even if you only use one at a time) then you will need to make different plans. ~CA
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Old 11-19-2023, 10:12 PM   #9
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Just FYI as I am not sure if you are aware that the Jayco "prepped for inverter" connection is only for a single circuit. In other words, regardless of your inverter size you cannot power the entire RV from that romex loop . If you want to power the entire RV (all of the outlets, even if you only use one at a time) then you will need to make different plans. ~CA
Yes. Iím aware it was only for several dedicated outlets. What I didnít understand was that single piece of Romex went to just one 15 amp fuse. That said, I know that circuit has the tv outlet, the bedside outlet and one other on it.

Iím learning. With each reply, a new learning block is placed.
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Old 11-20-2023, 06:37 AM   #10
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Just FYI as I am not sure if you are aware that the Jayco "prepped for inverter" connection is only for a single circuit. In other words, regardless of your inverter size you cannot power the entire RV from that romex loop . If you want to power the entire RV (all of the outlets, even if you only use one at a time) then you will need to make different plans. ~CA

My alternate plan was to just buy a nice sized inverter with an A/C outlet, mount it, then create a pass through for my rig's A/C cord somewhere on the underside of the area where I place the inverter. On my unit I have a nice little storage area on the street side just to the left of my unit's electric receptacle. It'd be a nice place to mount a decent sized inverter to then plug my rig into. Going this route, I'd have to find a spot in the camper where I could store my lithium battery(s). Come to think of it, that storage area would also fit two batteries nicely, as well.

I thought about using a cord pass through, like on the outside of units that have the retractable cords or something with a pop off cover, like unit's that have the 'business' bay in the front storage compartment. Usually there's a hole in the floor where they can pass through a hose.

This bay is on the slide. I never plan on having a party on the slide. It's got a U dining table where no more than 3 people would ever be at one time. Would you think weight would be a problem? We are talking 2 batteries. I don't intend to ever need more than 200ah. A single 200ah battery weighs 60lb or 2x 100ah = 60 lb as well.

Come to think of it, I also have another spot that might fit a battery. It's a dead space behind the 12v fridge, covered with an access vent meant for a 3 way fridge. It's finished off w/bare luan. The newer model of my camper (no more 3 way offered) they enlarged the opening, finished it with papered luan, made it taller, and threw a baggage door on it. I still have access though, by removing that air vent. It's also on the slide. You can just see it outside the frame of one of the photos, to the left.
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Old 11-20-2023, 07:04 AM   #11
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The reason being many people use CPAP's in the bedroom which are low amp draw as are the TV's. The Micro is usually a 20 amp circuit with it's own breaker. The fridge would be a 120 if it was on the Inverter not 12. 12 volt would go directly to the fuse panel.

Look at your breaker panel and see if the micro is separate.
Yes. Micro on AC breaker.
Fridge is on 12v side, fuse.
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Old 11-20-2023, 07:06 AM   #12
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Well I have rigged two TTs in similar size with a 2000 Watt Renogy. Now of course any inverter is as good as your battery types and amount. If you battery or batteries is mounted on the hitch, you should be mindful of the amount of added weight if you go with multiple batteries. Lithium has its own restrictions when charging in cooler weather.

But they are getting better. So you will need to consider your mounting location. There are some thats called mini sizes for the 100ah range. One option is going with one single 200ah battery for around 500 bucks.

But getting back to your setup with a 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter, of course you cannot run everything at the same time. And exempt from a color of the wires, I rigged my entire camper to run off the inverter without dealing with the work and limited access to the power panel by wiring a remote range plug in in my cargo locker from the available location on the inverter with number 10 wire.

Now the inverter does have an on and off switch, which you also have a remote to turn the inverter on too. You cannot leave the inverter on all the time. This will drain your batteries down, unless you have super amount of solar and batteries. But when I use the coffee pot and microwave, I just hit the on-off switch and turn the camper on 110 volt.

This way all I do is to run my main camper cable from the camper hook up to the plug in , which lightens up the entire 1110 volt system. Then I can take your choice in what you wish to run off of this setup. I run the cord up thru an additional door with its own slide cover over the slot when not in use to keep the bugs or water out of it. This is mounted on the outside area of the frame, and goes directly up to the mounted female plug similar to the one on the boxes at the campsites.

These are the two parts. The female plug is of course mounted in its on box and screwed to the bulkhead.

https://www.amazon.com/Camper-Traile...4&sr=8-10&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Grounded-Rece...866782024&th=1

I still have the option to run an extension cord from the two available plugs on the inverter if I don't want to go outside and hook up this set up to my coffee pot or microwave.

I only have two group 24 wet cell deep cycle batteries at this point on my current camper. I did have two group 27 AGM batteries on my last one, that still gave me 200ah of power rigged to my solar too. I just raised one up on the hitch and turned it sideways and fastened the box down thru the cross frames holding the batteries .

By the way I mounted my inverter under the overhang of my bed, which gives me complete access from inside the camper. I don't know your setup.
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Old 11-20-2023, 07:47 AM   #13
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Well I have rigged two TTs in similar size with a 2000 Watt Renogy. Now of course any inverter is as good as your battery types and amount. If you battery or batteries is mounted on the hitch, you should be mindful of the amount of added weight if you go with multiple batteries. Lithium has its own restrictions when charging in cooler weather.

But they are getting better. So you will need to consider your mounting location. There are some thats called mini sizes for the 100ah range. One option is going with one single 200ah battery for around 500 bucks.

But getting back to your setup with a 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter, of course you cannot run everything at the same time. And exempt from a color of the wires, I rigged my entire camper to run off the inverter without dealing with the work and limited access to the power panel by wiring a remote range plug in in my cargo locker from the available location on the inverter with number 10 wire. Now the inverter does have an on and off switch, which you also have a remote to turn the inverter on too. You cannot leave the inverter on all the time. This will drain your batteries down, unless you have super amount of solar and batteries. But when I use the coffee pot and microwave, I just hit the on-off switch and turn the camper on 110 volt.

This way all I do is to run my main camper cable from the camper hook up to the plug in , which lightens up the entire 1110 volt system. Then I can take your choice in what you wish to run off of this setup. I run the cord up thru an additional door with its own slide cover over the slot when not in use to keep the bugs or water out of it. This is mounted on the outside area of the frame, and goes directly up to the mounted female plug similar to the one on the boxes at the campsites.

I still have the option to run an extension cord from the two available plugs on the inverter if I don't want to go outside and hook up this set up to my coffee pot or microwave.

I only have two group 24 wet cell deep cycle batteries at this point on my current camper. I did have two group 27 AGM batteries on my last one, that still gave me 200ah of power rigged to my solar too. I just raised one up on the hitch and turned it sideways and fastened the box down thru the cross frames holding the batteries .
Thanks for telling me about your set-up. I used an inverter in my little pop-up camper. Mounted it, hooked it to my 2 LA batteries and knew if I wasn't using it, to turn it off.

What you have is exactly where my thought started. -Install a receptacle, like a home generator, which is connected to the battery banks via inverter.

As I'm sitting here I ask myself 'WHY?" -why am I considering any of this? B/C 100% of the reason I moved up to my TT is to ensure my daughter w/ special needs has the power she needs, no matter if we have electric hook-ups or not...b/c we all know how tough it can be to score a space w/ hookups at certain times of the year.

Now I say I'm asking myself this b/c I own the behemoth ECOFLOW Delta Pro 3600wh electric generator, complete w/ 30 amp receptacle. I can actually run my rooftop AC with this thing for about 5 hours. WHY you ask, would I need any more batteries or inverters since I have a giant portable battery bank with TONS of inverted AC outlets? B/c this monster is 100lb. Once I get it into the back of my truck, that is where it would need to stay. I cannot lift it out of that truck. I'd need to ensure I had enough cord to reach the camper AC receptacle, then I'd be doing great. My truck has a bed cover, so it would be safe from the elements.

I've had my camper a few weeks. I ran the camper plugged into this electric generator and it did really well. That said, where it is allowed, I could also throw the little 2000 watt generator I have into the truck bed and use THAT a couple hours a day, to recharge my electric generator, if the solar isn't topping it off fast enough.

I bought the generator for my restaurant, so if we lose power I can plug in the refrigeration overnight and still have the restaurant door securely locked, as a gas generator would need to be outside. This generator is safe to park right inside the kitchen with no worries. Bring it home during the day to charge or use my gas generator to recharge it during the day hours at the restaurant.

Anyway...so many options. I just love these type projects. I like working out problems, finding solutions and learning, too.
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Old 11-20-2023, 08:00 AM   #14
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We carry a 3500 Predator inverter generator just in case we need ac. We are serious boondockers and harvest host users. Our setup and the combination of both has worked well for us. The other option for enough 110 power is the two 2000 or 2200 watt suit case inverter generator, which weighs less and use the parallel kit for the two.

But one 2200 with the possible soft start will run the ac too, which should be a 13500 in your camper. Some of the newer acs already have the soft start built in, from what I understand.

But if not, just update the ac with the feature and use the one inverter generator. Of course you need to carry extra gas. I use a hard tonnoeu cover on my bed of the truck and it works well with protecting everything.
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Old 11-20-2023, 08:18 AM   #15
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We carry a 3500 Predator inverter generator just in case we need ac. We are serious boondockers and harvest host users. Our setup and the combination of both has worked well for us. The other option for enough 110 power is the two 2000 or 2200 watt suit case inverter generator, which weighs less and use the parallel kit for the two.

But one 2200 with the possible soft start will run the ac too, which should be a 13500 in your camper. Some of the newer acs already have the soft start built in, from what I understand.

But if not, just update the ac with the feature and use the one inverter generator. Of course you need to carry extra gas. I use a hard tonnoeu cover on my bed of the truck and it works well with protecting everything.
I like the Predator 3500 and was considering it as well...but like I mentioned, why buy that when I really do have what I need. As far as electric generator/battery banks, I also have the Delta Max 2000wh generator (used it in my pop-up, before getting the giant PRO unit for the restaurant) and YES! It's much more manageable. My rooftop A/C is 14,500 just a tad over that 13,500. It has a type of capacitor that enables start up via a 20amp outlet, which it did, off my giant ECOFLOW PRO AND my 2000wh...for an hour....but it DOES work. My little Predator (really 1600/2000) gas generator wouldn't work, as it went into overload when I tried it. I was not surprised.

I don't do any cold weather camping, so I'm not concerned with lithium batteries being in the cold, as I'd take them inside for the winter. But for now, I think I'm going to try out what I have, to see if it is completely inconvenient or maybe not, then decide on permanent batteries for the camper.
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Old 11-20-2023, 08:33 AM   #16
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The 3500 does double duty for us too when storms create extended power loss in the area and we use the camper as a self contained mini home. It sounds like you have things close to being figured out. And yes "trial by fire" will give you a good idea for your best setup moving foward. Cheers,
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Old 11-23-2023, 03:22 PM   #17
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I just installed that same Aims 2000 watt inverter and remote switch in a teardrop camper. I tied the inverter into one 15 amp circuit that feeds 4 receptacles in and near the kitchen. The manufacturer recommends using 12awg wire so I used the yellow Romex cable to the inverter from the breaker and from the inverter to the outgoing circuit. I tested the inverter on a 900 watt Mister Coffee percolator and it pulls 74 amps from the batteries during the brewing process then drops off to about 5 amps to keep the coffee warm. That inverter with automatic transfer switch has "pass through" ability when it detects shore power and when shore power is disconnected, it seamlessly switches over to battery power.
FYI, the microwave can pull as much or more power from the batteries as the a/c unit depending on how many watts it is. Also, use the recommended size thickness battery cables and fuse and it should work fine for you. I really like the fact that the installation doesn't require extension cords, its fully automatic.
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Old 11-27-2023, 01:00 PM   #18
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If I might make a suggestion, you would be better off in the long run to Purchase the ECO Flow Pro and plug it into your 30amp exterior plug. They have them at Costo now for $2900 w/ solar https://www.costco.com/ecoflow-delta...100972938.html
I added one in my 26FK with a transfer switch and it runs everything including the AC.
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Old 11-27-2023, 09:49 PM   #19
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If I might make a suggestion, you would be better off in the long run to Purchase the ECO Flow Pro and plug it into your 30amp exterior plug. They have them at Costo now for $2900 w/ solar https://www.costco.com/ecoflow-delta...100972938.html
I added one in my 26FK with a transfer switch and it runs everything including the AC.
You missed the mention in one of my posts about my actually owning the EcoFlow Pro. Itís all I need, yes, but itís 100 pounds. I talked about keeping it in my covered truck bed and plugging camper into it. I also have the 220 watt folding panel. I originally bought it to power refrigeration at my restaurant should we lose power, without having to run cords out the back door.

I decided to camp this coming season, using the EcoFlow, to see how convenient it will be, before adding anything extra to my camper.
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