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Old 06-29-2022, 08:39 AM   #81
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Originally Posted by HunnerWoof View Post
I searched and couldn't find anything on this, so I hope this isn't an existing question that I missed, but does anyone know where the fridge vents to? We're having an issue with ours...all power sources are good, no coolant leaks, when running on gas, the burner lights no problem. But, our fridge will not get cold...in fact, it almost seems to produce heat. My thought was that maybe the vent is plugged and it has some sort of safety shut off if it gets too hot. But...I can't figure out where the vent goes? The only vents on the roof are plumbing that I can tell. And the vent on the side seems to only be for the microwave (and no heat comes out when the fridge is running). We're under warranty, but I'm trying to avoid the 30 mile trip to the dealer if I can.
Your Dometic gas/elect. refrigerator roof vent on your 25RB looks this one:

https://www.campingworld.com/fridge-...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

There is no vent for the microwave.
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Old 06-29-2022, 10:35 AM   #82
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Originally Posted by Camp4two View Post
Your Dometic gas/elect. refrigerator roof vent on your 25RB looks this one:

https://www.campingworld.com/fridge-...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

There is no vent for the microwave.
I don't have a roof vent that resembles that anywhere on my roof. There's nothing in the roof even close to where the fridge is located. The vent on the side of my trailer next to the access panel for the fridge is for the Furrion hood fan above the stove.

I should have specified I have the Dometic fridge.

Was told by dealer they can't look at anything for 8 weeks.
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Old 06-30-2022, 08:21 AM   #83
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Originally Posted by Camp4two View Post
Your Dometic gas/elect. refrigerator roof vent on your 25RB looks this one:

https://www.campingworld.com/fridge-...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

There is no vent for the microwave.
So, I went back up to the roof for a more thorough look. As I was crawling around, I suddenly felt a void under the roof liner where the vent would logically be. There's a cutout, but they just put the liner right over it and never installed a vent.

What's crazy is that I stopped at the dealer this week and climbed the ladders on 5 other Jay Feathers on the lot....none of them had anything above the fridge locations, and none of them had anything that looked like this type of vent. Is it possible, the dealer is supposed to install these upon receipt, or did Jayco really just mess up that many trailers?
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Old 06-30-2022, 01:12 PM   #84
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25RB Dinette Slide Out

Added a slide out under the dinette bench seat for less than $42.00. I did a lot of measuring to make sure I only cut once. Hopefully the method I describe below for construction will work for you if you try to build one. It sure beats removing the seat cushions every time you want something from below. I constructed the slide out using the following material:
1 - 1"x3"x4'
1 - 1"x4"x4'
1 - 1"x4"x8'
1 - 3/8"x2'x4' sheet of plywood
2 - 48" shelf-tracks
1 - pack of wood screws #10 1-1/4" long and 1 pack of #10 3/4" long

Take one of the cross frame members you cut and make sure it fits snugly inside the dinette bench 1"x1" frame on the floor. As you will notice in picture #1, the side frame sits on top of both front and back cross frames. Before attaching a side frame to the cross frame member, attach the shelf-track first to the top of the side frame (pic 1) with the #10 3/4" screws and then secure to the cross frame with #10 1-1/4 screws (pic 3). This method gave me enough clearance over the front lip of the cabinet to pull out the slide (pic #2). I used the existing screw holes in the track and enlarged them a bit so the head of the screw sits lower in the hole. This will allow for the slide to pull out easier. When cutting the width of the slide out of the plywood, do not cut to the exact width from rail to rail. It needs to be a bit shorter to clear the screw heads on the track and to provide an easier pull and push. The 1x3 lumber was cut to length to close up the ends of the frame. The two end pieces sit on top of the cross frame pieces also. The slide frame was secured to the floor using the #10 1-1/4" wood screws countersunk. Insert the slide through the open door (pic #4), throw on a coat of paint, and you should be good to go. I did pinch the sides on the shelf track a bit to provide a more snug fit for the slide.
Attached Thumbnails
Pic 1.jpg   Pic 2.jpg   Pic 3.jpg   Pic 4.jpg   Pic 5.jpg  

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Old 06-30-2022, 03:31 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HunnerWoof View Post
So, I went back up to the roof for a more thorough look. As I was crawling around, I suddenly felt a void under the roof liner where the vent would logically be. There's a cutout, but they just put the liner right over it and never installed a vent.

What's crazy is that I stopped at the dealer this week and climbed the ladders on 5 other Jay Feathers on the lot....none of them had anything above the fridge locations, and none of them had anything that looked like this type of vent. Is it possible, the dealer is supposed to install these upon receipt, or did Jayco really just mess up that many trailers?
Jayco installs either the gas/elect. (e.g. Dometic) or 12V only (e.g. Furrion) refrigerator. The 12V only has no roof vent. The gas/elect. "should" have a roof vent to expel the refrigerator's heat. The 5 other Jay Feather roofs you saw at the dealer may have all been with 12V only refrigerators.

I have the Dometic gas/elect. refrigerator with a roof vent on my 2020 25RB. Suggest you call Jayco and and explain your findings. I suspect Jayco messed up by thinking your Jay Feather had the 12V only refrigerator.
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Old 07-03-2022, 08:20 AM   #86
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Originally Posted by Sixtyman View Post
Added a slide out under the dinette bench seat for less than $42.00. I did a lot of measuring to make sure I only cut once. Hopefully the method I describe below for construction will work for you if you try to build one. It sure beats removing the seat cushions every time you want something from below. I constructed the slide out using the following material:
1 - 1"x3"x4'
1 - 1"x4"x4'
1 - 1"x4"x8'
1 - 3/8"x2'x4' sheet of plywood
2 - 48" shelf-tracks
1 - pack of wood screws #10 1-1/4" long and 1 pack of #10 3/4" long

Take one of the cross frame members you cut and make sure it fits snugly inside the dinette bench 1"x1" frame on the floor. As you will notice in picture #1, the side frame sits on top of both front and back cross frames. Before attaching a side frame to the cross frame member, attach the shelf-track first to the top of the side frame (pic 1) with the #10 3/4" screws and then secure to the cross frame with #10 1-1/4 screws (pic 3). This method gave me enough clearance over the front lip of the cabinet to pull out the slide (pic #2). I used the existing screw holes in the track and enlarged them a bit so the head of the screw sits lower in the hole. This will allow for the slide to pull out easier. When cutting the width of the slide out of the plywood, do not cut to the exact width from rail to rail. It needs to be a bit shorter to clear the screw heads on the track and to provide an easier pull and push. The 1x3 lumber was cut to length to close up the ends of the frame. The two end pieces sit on top of the cross frame pieces also. The slide frame was secured to the floor using the #10 1-1/4" wood screws countersunk. Insert the slide through the open door (pic #4), throw on a coat of paint, and you should be good to go. I did pinch the sides on the shelf track a bit to provide a more snug fit for the slide.
Excellent modification for the dinette bench. Thank you for your detailed description and photos. I’m going to follow your instructions. Exactly what is needed for easy access to stuff.
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Old 07-05-2022, 05:34 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sixtyman View Post
Added a slide out under the dinette bench seat for less than $42.00. I did a lot of measuring to make sure I only cut once. Hopefully the method I describe below for construction will work for you if you try to build one. It sure beats removing the seat cushions every time you want something from below. I constructed the slide out using the following material:
1 - 1"x3"x4'
1 - 1"x4"x4'
1 - 1"x4"x8'
1 - 3/8"x2'x4' sheet of plywood
2 - 48" shelf-tracks
1 - pack of wood screws #10 1-1/4" long and 1 pack of #10 3/4" long

Take one of the cross frame members you cut and make sure it fits snugly inside the dinette bench 1"x1" frame on the floor. As you will notice in picture #1, the side frame sits on top of both front and back cross frames. Before attaching a side frame to the cross frame member, attach the shelf-track first to the top of the side frame (pic 1) with the #10 3/4" screws and then secure to the cross frame with #10 1-1/4 screws (pic 3). This method gave me enough clearance over the front lip of the cabinet to pull out the slide (pic #2). I used the existing screw holes in the track and enlarged them a bit so the head of the screw sits lower in the hole. This will allow for the slide to pull out easier. When cutting the width of the slide out of the plywood, do not cut to the exact width from rail to rail. It needs to be a bit shorter to clear the screw heads on the track and to provide an easier pull and push. The 1x3 lumber was cut to length to close up the ends of the frame. The two end pieces sit on top of the cross frame pieces also. The slide frame was secured to the floor using the #10 1-1/4" wood screws countersunk. Insert the slide through the open door (pic #4), throw on a coat of paint, and you should be good to go. I did pinch the sides on the shelf track a bit to provide a more snug fit for the slide.
That's a really clever mod - I like the idea of a slide out platform but we decided we'd like a drawer instead so I will be making a 30" slide-out drawer from 5/8" plywood for the box & 1/4" plywood drawer bottom, using 28" drawer slides with 100lb capacity. We will keep about a foot or so clear at the other end of the bench next to the wall for occasionally used items that we'll access via pulling the seat board up. I'll post pics and sketch with dimensions when I get it completed.
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Old 07-05-2022, 05:41 PM   #88
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I extended the bed platform 6 inches by using 2x2 for support and 3/8 plywood cut to fit the end of the bed. We made a bolster from memory foam and added it to the head of the bed and then topped it with a full gueen memory mattress topper. It sleeps a lot better but the lower shelf is a problem. My wife found some stick on corner protector strip which helps to ease the pain but she wants the self removed. It's a fairly solid shelf and I think it may be a significant structural component. I wonder if anyone has removed the lower shelf? Also the closets that extend full length tends to make the head of the bed space restrictive. My other JAYCO has open space below the closets which makes a big difference. I'm looking at modifying the bottom of my 25RB closets. I've ordered a second AC for the bedroom. We really like the overall floor plan but the bedroom is key to comfort, especially for extended trips.
I have seen a couple of posts online about removing the bottom shelf. There are screws that you can see from above and/or below (can't remember) but apparently there are also some screws or toe-nails inside the closets on either side that you have to access by removing the hanging rods and pulling back on the closet liner next to the shelf joint. I started to remove this as a weekend project while camping (I can't help but putter around on the camper every time we are at a site for more than 3 days) but that last part made for more than I was willing to undertake without having access to my home shop and tools. My wife showed me a couple of pics of 25RBs with the lower shelf removed and it did not look bad nor did it appear to diminish structural integrity. I think some light colored or gray putty to fill in any remaining holes will be hidden pretty well by the farmhouse color scheme on that headboard wall.



I can assure you that shelf is coming out of our camper PDQ.....
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Old 07-14-2022, 07:19 PM   #89
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Replaced Sponge Drawer

Finished up another small but time consuming modification for our TT. My wife was not extremely happy with the sponge cabinet drawer so I replaced it with a full length drawer. I used the cabinet drawer benefit the sponge cabinet as my pattern. Building the drawer was relatively easy and installing the glide rails was a bit difficult due to the space constraints you have to work within. I was able to reuse the front drawer panel for the new drawer. As you can see from the before and after pictures, it makes for a nice addition in the kitchen area.
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Original Drawer.jpg   New Drawer.jpg  
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Old 07-14-2022, 11:28 PM   #90
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Nice!
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Old 07-18-2022, 07:43 AM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sixtyman View Post
Finished up another small but time consuming modification for our TT. My wife was not extremely happy with the sponge cabinet drawer so I replaced it with a full length drawer. I used the cabinet drawer benefit the sponge cabinet as my pattern. Building the drawer was relatively easy and installing the glide rails was a bit difficult due to the space constraints you have to work within. I was able to reuse the front drawer panel for the new drawer. As you can see from the before and after pictures, it makes for a nice addition in the kitchen area.
Excellent use of that of that space. Thank you for the before/after pics.
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Old 07-18-2022, 11:29 AM   #92
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The bedroom head knocker shelf is no more. There are several threads here and on FB that have photos so I won’t duplicate those. But the key tips I learned and would suggest are:

1. You only have to remove the hanger rod socket from the shelf side - you can leave the one on the exterior wall side alone.

2. You’ll alternate between a long shank square bit and a short shank square bit when removing the screws holding the shelf. Have both ready in advance.

3. Don’t even start the project unless you have one of these to pull back the paneling inside the closet to get the last screws out. You can buy one at Lowes or Home Depot.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dasco-Pr...29-0/303168228

4. Once you get the panels off, you’ll have to bend them a little to pull them out of the closet. You’ll need the space to remove the screws. There may be one screw or two screws on each side. It helps to have a helper hold up the first of the shelf side while you free the remaining side.

5. Be sure to have needle nose pliers to remove old staples and brad nails. Have a heavy stapler handy to re-secure the panels when done.

6. You may want to get a wood scratch hiding pen to make the remaining screw holes less obvious, or mount something over the holes like a nightlight or decoration of some sort.
The whole process will take about 45 minutes.

7. Save the shelf and paneling. If you are going to replace the shallow shelves and doors under your TV in the living area with a fireplace heater, you’ll need the trim wood and paneling to make a nice professional looking installation. That’s my next project.
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Old 08-14-2022, 09:36 AM   #93
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We recently completed in our 2021 25RB, a 3,400 miles round trip from Nevada down the entire Oregon coast. Stayed in four State Park campgrounds along the coast. It was an awesome trip.

OTA TV reception. Only issue was poor TV reception from all campgrounds nearby small cities with the rooftop shark fin antenna. I discovered this issue last year, had my Las Vegas dealer check it (found nothing). Last year I purchased a King OmniGo portable antenna. Great reception from the OmniGo at every campground. I decided not to replace the shark fin. It works okay in large metro areas.

Bumper Bike Rack. We have two hybrid road bikes. We have traveled over 5K miles with our 25RB using a Curt 2 inch receiver bumper hitch, safety support struts under the bumper, Swagman Escapee 2 bike rack and a Team Obsidian XL cover. No issues, never any stress on the bumper. Our former TT (with bikes) went over 7K miles with this same set up with no issues. See photos.

Our 25RB has been great so far, better than any of our three previous non-Jayco TTs.
Attached Thumbnails
1.jpg   2.jpg   3.jpg   4.jpg   5.jpg  

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Old 08-24-2022, 12:11 PM   #94
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While I was underneath my camper looking at the quick disconnect for the Jayport grill, I noticed an extra propane line coiled up and tied to the side. Its capped off but does anyone know the purpose of it?
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Old 08-27-2022, 09:42 AM   #95
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While I was underneath my camper looking at the quick disconnect for the Jayport grill, I noticed an extra propane line coiled up and tied to the side. Its capped off but does anyone know the purpose of it?
I can't understand why there is an extra propane line capped off. Our 2021 25RB has only the quick disconnect for the grill. Might be for propane accessories like a Weber BBQ, propane generator, etc. Maybe the dealer or Jayco Customer Service would know.
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Old 08-27-2022, 01:03 PM   #96
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Nice work on the drawer Sixtyman. Was wondering, to what/how did you anchor the slide rails (assuming) in the back? There is no interior frame to screw into. Or, am I missing the obvious...? Safe travels.
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Old 08-29-2022, 04:02 PM   #97
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In order to add the drawer Cookiejar it does require you mount a board on the back frame that runs from the bottom of the kitchen counter to the floor. Pull out the drawer beneath the sponge door and the one beneath the drawer you just removed. You will see how they secured slide rails to the mounting board with rear brackets. Measure a mounting board already installed from one of the drawers you removed. Make sure the mounting board (A) you're cutting out for your rear bracket attachment is the same width, height, and thickness.

To attach your mounting board to the frame I found out this method worked pretty well for me. Measure the height between the 2 mounting boards on the back frame already installed (thus the reason for removing two drawers to get a measurement). Once you have determined the height between to the 2 existing mounting boards, cut a spacer board (B) to that height and exact length of the mounting board (A) you are going to install. Secure spacer board B on top of the mounting board of the 1st drawer you removed to the frame in the back with 2 screws and make sure the ends of the 2 boards are even. Pre drill the mounting board (A) you made and start 2 screws. Attach the rear slide brackets to the mounting board (A) in the same position like the ones already installed on the other drawers as a reference. Now, attach your slide rails to the rear brackets. Extend the drawer slides so they lay on top of the front drawer support and position your mounting bracket (A) on top of spacer board (B). Make sure the ends of both boards (A&B) are even.

This method worked for me and I hope it works for you. Good Luck!
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Old 08-30-2022, 01:04 PM   #98
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Wow! Thanks for taking the time to fill in all the details. Ingenious! Looks like my winter project has been defined! Safe travels.
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Old 09-02-2022, 05:44 PM   #99
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Go solar?

Any input or advice? If I install 200w solar panels on the roof of my 2022 25rb will it void may warranty
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Old 09-03-2022, 01:28 PM   #100
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Any input or advice? If I install 200w solar panels on the roof of my 2022 25rb will it void may warranty
Jayco Customer Service may be your best answer.

We have a portable Renogy 200w solar suitcase we plug into our solar port on our 2021 25RB. Have to keep moving the suitcase with the sun, but it does an outstanding job keeping our two 6v golf cart batteries fully charged.

Our solar suitcase is to the right of our 25RB in photo.
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