Jay Feather Micro 166FBS Inverter

[TomC_AZ]

That is correct for the stock WF-8735 you can however buy the WF-8735 LIS (or 8740lis) and it will support the lithium batteries.

My trailer has the GoPower Solar on it with the 190w panel so with that it keeps the lithium battery topped off. But plugging in will not fully top it off unless I replace the whole power center.

I have looked into it and they run about $160-200 if you can find one in stock. Mine also has the smaller GE style breakers with the standard units do not support so I would have to find the GE model of this (which they make, I have yet to find one) to keep all my stock breaker etc.. The swap out however seems to be pretty straight forward and not a big deal and something an owner can absolutely easily do.

[DK1]

Seems to be more info here on Jayco rigs than Jayco provides. Strange but apparently true...

If/when my unit comes in, I'll trace the prewire and see what the BIG MYSTERY is about... I don't get the lack of information from Jayco. Either promote the feature (prewire) and provide full information or don't install and don't promote. Shouldn't promote the feature "inverter prewire" but then not provide squat ...

Geo-Pro/E-Pro come standard with 1000W inverter. Can't be such a big thing can it after all?

[Comanche_Moon]

Reposting because everyone seems confused....

On the 166FBS the inverter pre-wire is only a loop of wire plugged into an outlet, connect to the power source.

You will need to basically wire everything yourself because that loop is worthless.

You will need an automatic transfer switch.


It will ONLY POWER THE BEDROOM RECEPTACLE. THE POP UP IN THE HEADBOARD.

The loop or "pre-wire" is under the bed next to the water heater. You can barely fit an inverter in there, let alone all the rest of the components you would need, transfer switch, Ground, etc. It flat out wont fit in that space.

Its only a sales gimmick. You'll spend way more than what it is worth to only power a single receptacle. You could use an extension cord off the inverter if you want...but defeats the purpose now doesn't it? But someone might be cool with that.

Jayco offers no help, they told me first buy an inverter and plug it in and off you go...False... Then was told it would void the warranty... False... Then was told we wont give you a wiring diagram... then was told I need a transfer switch and inverter and do all the soldering and crimping my self... THIS turned out to be true.

See my post here: https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...nfo-90932.html

Went down the inverter rabbit hole.

In Summation:

* Inverter pre-wire is a 14g Romex 120v loop of wire. Max watts 1800.
* Inverter will require a transfer switch
* Doesn't void warranty but won't be covered if aftermarket
* RV One will not install aftermarket. Lazydays will as long as its unopened
* Inverter would power: TV, Fridge, Bedroom only (on the 166FBS its the pop-up in headboard/footboard)
- If you have 12v Fridge and 12v TV it will only power the pop-up receptacle. Cannot say this is cost effective for my needs at this point.

Not sure what your equipment is but the inverter pre-wire really is just a marketing gimmick after going deep into research on the 166FBS.

Powers very little and can only handle 1800w. If it powered the whole RV it would be worth it. But, TV, Fridge, and bedroom...well if you got the 12v TV and Fridge like I do...I'd be spending $1000+ to power a single outlet and usb receptacle.

Good luck.

[DK1]

Thanks for reposting. The only thing I can't get past (in my head) is the receptacle in the bad area. So far as I know that is not a dedicated receptacle. It would work if you were plugged into shore power. If so that means it's connected to the electrical panel. And if connected to the electrical panel, the inverter would wind up powering that....

[jay_jak]

Like many people in this thread I have received very little information about the wiring of my Jayco 166FBS. However, from poking around and reading the above posts I think it may be possible to install an Inverter Charger (with auto switch) if you add in an additional loop of wire from the "inverter prewire" area to the power center.

My thought is to switch off the Converter via breaker and have the inverter output connect to the power center 120v shore power input (with an additional loop of wire). The inverter prewire that is already there can remain and connect to inverter input to charge the batteries when connected to shore power.

This way the Converter/power center box doesn't need to be replaced for use with Lithium batteries and only one wire needs to be run. The converter breaker will be switched off so there is no feedback loop through the batteries, and you can switch the inverter off when not in use so it doesn't drain the batteries powering the 120v system.

I still need to poke around more to find out if this can actually be done, but it seems like it wouldn't be too difficult. If there are any flaws to this thought process, please let me know before I fry my rig.

[gobdeep]

My wife and I are headed down this path. We had a conversation this morning matter of fact. I think what we will do is drop in an inverter connected to the batteries as the source power without touching any factory wiring. This ensures that the GoPower solar and everything else will continue to charge the batteries and run on shore power as needed and as intended from the factory.

Our route is to run additional circuits from the inverter to key locations in our travel trailer: 2 in the bedroom (one near the headboard and one in the roof near the second HVAC), 1 in the living room, and one outside by the "patio" area (under the awning). These circuits will be wired to an outlet of a different color (dark green or something) so we know that these circuits are inverter-powered circuits.

When we are "off grid" and need 120 volts, we can use the other colored outlets for our source power.

Again, just kicking around the idea that we talked about this morning. Good luck in your project!

[EJH]

Originally Posted by gobdeep

My wife and I are headed down this path. We had a conversation this morning matter of fact. I think what we will do is drop in an inverter connected to the batteries as the source power without touching any factory wiring. This ensures that the GoPower solar and everything else will continue to charge the batteries and run on shore power as needed and as intended from the factory.

Our route is to run additional circuits from the inverter to key locations in our travel trailer: 2 in the bedroom (one near the headboard and one in the roof near the second HVAC), 1 in the living room, and one outside by the "patio" area (under the awning). These circuits will be wired to an outlet of a different color (dark green or something) so we know that these circuits are inverter-powered circuits.

When we are "off grid" and need 120 volts, we can use the other colored outlets for our source power.

Again, just kicking around the idea that we talked about this morning. Good luck in your project!

This is what I plan to do.

I will run one or two extra outlets in the trailer, powered from a 700W Renogy inverter I picked up on Black Friday.

I do not need to run the microwave or A/C when boondocking. We want to be able to power laptops, a monitor and charge our 18V tools (drill, vacuum).

If we do find we really want the microwave, I'll replace the inverter with a 2000w model. I can then run another inverter powered outlet next to the existing microwave outlet. Then we plug the microwave into the proper outlet whether on shore or not.

[Jay2504]

There are a couple of ways to go here, depending on what the OP is trying to run. One way is to install a 2000 watt inverter and just plug the whole camper into it (after turning off the converter circuit breaker) and all the outlets will be hot. Another way is to just install a smaller inverter, running either a couple of dedicated outlets for inverter only. I did that with a 750 watt inverter in our previous TT. On this unit, I am running a 400watt MSW, to do a crockpot on the road, or just the television. I ran a 10 gauge wire to a plug so we can power up the crockpot. I also did the 2000 watt setup so I can microwave you a hot dog 🌭 in the Walmart parking lot.

[Comanche_Moon]

Really love the idea of installing the inverter with its own outlets. What a great idea guys!

I am contemplating doing this now. But may hold off for when I get better batteries and an additional solar panel.

[McMullap]

I’ve talked to a few of you on another thread about the inverter. I have the 171BH. I would only power the tower and I don’t think it’s worth it. I plan to buy a Jackery or Goal Zero.

However, I’m a little confused about Lithium batteries. My camper came with a 70am Wet Cell. I was planning to use two 75ah Lithium batteries. They will be easy to fit and I rarely Boondock for long. Do I need a new charge controller? If so, what brand do you recommend? Do I simply remove the one that came on the unit (I received the factory solar option)? I found an amazing deal and the lithium are hard to pass up. But I want to make sure they actually work. Thanks! Andy

[EJH]

Originally Posted by McMullap

I’ve talked to a few of you on another thread about the inverter. I have the 171BH. I would only power the tower and I don’t think it’s worth it. I plan to buy a Jackery or Goal Zero.

However, I’m a little confused about Lithium batteries. My camper came with a 70am Wet Cell. I was planning to use two 75ah Lithium batteries. They will be easy to fit and I rarely Boondock for long. Do I need a new charge controller? If so, what brand do you recommend? Do I simply remove the one that came on the unit (I received the factory solar option)? I found an amazing deal and the lithium are hard to pass up. But I want to make sure they actually work. Thanks! Andy

I'll share my notes on this (YMMV):

Do I need a new charge controller?
No new solar charger controller, just change your GoPower to lithium. You do need a new converter/charger, if you want the trailer (on shore power) to fully charge the LiFePo batteries to 100%. LiFePo batteries require a higher charge voltage (they can also benefit from a different charge profile, but that is not as important). Most likely you have a WFCO Model WF-8735P power center (but check). Unfortunately, this model does not have a coverter/charger that can be replaced without replacing the entire power center. So, if you want to fully charge LiFePo batteries on shore power, you have two options: 1) WFCO has an identical model that is a direct drop in replacement, that does lithium, model WF-8735LiS. See link here. Unfortunately, I cannot find this for sale anywhere. I am guessing it is too new. 2) Replace the power center with a Progressive Dynamics unit that supports lithium. You want model
PD4135K. Unfortunately this model is slightly different in dimensions. It is narrower and will require minor modifications to the trim around the panel, plus a little more work transferring wires from the old WFCO to the PD unit, as the connection layout is different. .

If you have solar (most likely you have the Go Power 30A charge controller), there is a shortcut to replacing your converter/charger. You use the factory converter/charger with the lithium batteries, which will get you 70-90% charged (depending on which battery you go with). Then you let the solar top off the lithium (change the solar controller to lithium of course). I plan to go this route until I can locate the WFCO lithium model. When I find that, I will do a replacement of my power center.

Regarding an inverter, I went the route of adding a dedicated outlet powered by my inverter. See picture attached.

[JayLo]

Originally Posted by McMullap

I’ve talked to a few of you on another thread about the inverter. I have the 171BH. I would only power the tower and I don’t think it’s worth it. I plan to buy a Jackery or Goal Zero.

However, I’m a little confused about Lithium batteries. My camper came with a 70am Wet Cell. I was planning to use two 75ah Lithium batteries. They will be easy to fit and I rarely Boondock for long. Do I need a new charge controller? If so, what brand do you recommend? Do I simply remove the one that came on the unit (I received the factory solar option)? I found an amazing deal and the lithium are hard to pass up. But I want to make sure they actually work. Thanks! Andy

I have the 171bh. Bought a Lion 1300 105AH. They are same size as regular battery and weigh less. Hooked it up and changed setting on charge controller to Lithium Battery. Done.

https://lionenergy.com/products/lion-safari-ut-1300

[JayLo]

Originally Posted by JayLo

I have the 171bh. Bought a Lion 1300 105AH. They are same size as regular battery and weigh less. Hooked it up and changed setting on charge controller to Lithium Battery. Done.

https://lionenergy.com/products/lion-safari-ut-1300

You do not need a new charge controller

[TomC_AZ]

As mentioned you do not need a new charge controller, the OEM PWM GoPower 30amp controller is plenty. If you live and camp in REALLY cloudy areas a MPPT controller would help as they are more efficient and thus more power goes to the battery for charging. But it is still not NEEDED, its more of a want/improvement over the PWM. But you would also be left with a hole in the wall from the PWM.

As for what EJH mentions on the power center, that is correct, the standard charger/power center will NOT charge a lithium higher than 75-80%. WFCO has confirmed that it also will not harm the battery. But with my experience I never saw more than 75% charge from it while plugged into 30amp service.

I was able to find a WFCO 8740-LIS model and will be installing in the next few months. Need the trailer to go in for service before I do anything else to it. This is a slightly higher wattage version of the 8735 and WFCO strongly recommended it over the 8735. They also have come out with a AD model that auto detects the battery type removing the need to flip the little switch when swapping out batteries. Those should be shipping soon if they have not already. I found mine at a boat/rv online dealer and they were great to work with. Here are the links:
https://www.boatandrvaccessories.com...ect-6-circuits

https://www.boatandrvaccessories.com...2251489d&_ss=r

Good luck, personally I would stick with the same brand less chance of Jayco voiding warranty. But thats just me and not even sure that would happen..

[GatorFan123]

What if you isolated the converter, installed a battery charger powered by an RV 12v outlet directly to the batteries, and then installed an inverter which would feed a 30 amp RV receptacle. Then you would simply plug your power cord into ground power, generator, or the inverter receptacle and you should be able to run everything normally.

[TomC_AZ]

You can do that, there are many many many solutions that fit all of the various needs everyone has. Just remember that in any configuration (using stock/upgraded converter or separate 120v charger) you need to make sure that you have a method to disconnect/disable the charger/converter when running off the inverter. This creates a loop and in effect makes the system/battery charge itself unless turned off.

This is honestly the biggest reason a charger/inverter/transfer switch combo is a nice solution as they will automatically do that all for you depending on the power source. But they cost $$$

I went with a solution that will require me to switch the converter breaker every time I run the inverter. No big deal, just need to remember it. But I also saved $1000 which is a nice battery and the inverter does what I need it to when I need it to.

[Forester2]

OK, finally got some good weather to power this baby up. Have the factory 190 watt solar panel with a second dealer installed 190 watt panel. Two Battleborn 100amp lithium battereries. Controller shows voltage and Battery 1. No solar panel icon on screen. Amps show 0. No error codes. Voltage shows no lower than 13.1 (13.3 when batteries installed). Been running 12volt fridge for 3 days now to test. Trying to determine if panels are working or not. My concern is not seeing that panel icon above above B1 on the screen.

[gobdeep]

Originally Posted by Forester2

OK, finally got some good weather to power this baby up. Have the factory 190 watt solar panel with a second dealer installed 190 watt panel. Two Battleborn 100amp lithium battereries. Controller shows voltage and Battery 1. No solar panel icon on screen. Amps show 0. No error codes. Voltage shows no lower than 13.1 (13.3 when batteries installed). Been running 12volt fridge for 3 days now to test. Trying to determine if panels are working or not. My concern is not seeing that panel icon above above B1 on the screen.

Can you send us screenshots?

[EJH]

Originally Posted by Forester2

OK, finally got some good weather to power this baby up. Have the factory 190 watt solar panel with a second dealer installed 190 watt panel. Two Battleborn 100amp lithium battereries. Controller shows voltage and Battery 1. No solar panel icon on screen. Amps show 0. No error codes. Voltage shows no lower than 13.1 (13.3 when batteries installed). Been running 12volt fridge for 3 days now to test. Trying to determine if panels are working or not. My concern is not seeing that panel icon above above B1 on the screen.

Check your roof mounted input box. Your charge controller is not seeing any panels. Many report issues with poor connections.
https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...god-90733.html

A couple other tests:
* measure the voltage at the wires from the panels behind the charge controller. It should be around 22V (assuming your two panels are in parallel).
* measure the voltage at the panels themselves. Each should be about 22V (+/- a couple Volts).

[TomC_AZ]

Which charge controller do you have, the GP-PWM-30-SQ? This was what mine came with. Check the manual, https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/c...-PWM-30-SQ.pdf

If it is showing B1 it means that the battery is disconnected. I would check the disconnect switch and make sure its locked in and on. If that is all good, I would actually disconnect one of the battery connections and wait like 1min. Then reconnect and see if that changes things. Sometimes that controller needs to be "gently bumped" to restart.