Jay Feather Micro 166FBS Inverter - Page 3

Forester2 · 05-12-2022, 11:39 AM

Thanks. Voltage on panel side of controller: ZERO

Forester2 · 05-12-2022, 11:44 AM

When dealer added 2nd panel they connect panels with Y connector then into Id guess to be about a 20' coiled length of wire that looks to be about telephone wire gauge then into roof connection.

Forester2 · 05-12-2022, 01:47 PM

Disconnected junk wire at roof port: Zero voltage. Disconnected at Y connection: 20 volts. Think I found my answer. Thinking of just ordering 5' panel extensions from Renogy. Connectors the same?
Also the inverter discussions for lithium are making me wonder if I should upgrade that too.

EJH · 05-12-2022, 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Forester2

Disconnected junk wire at roof port: Zero voltage. Disconnected at Y connection: 20 volts. Think I found my answer. Thinking of just ordering 5' panel extensions from Renogy. Connectors the same?
Also the inverter discussions for lithium are making me wonder if I should upgrade that too.

Yup, They are all MC4 connectors. Amazon will have them. Renogy, Rich Solar, Windy Nation, HQST, etc all the same.

Forester2 · 05-12-2022, 01:56 PM

Thanks. For 5' is 12 gauge good or 380 watts or the 10 gauge?

TomC_AZ · 05-12-2022, 02:28 PM

If you get the premade cables I believe they are all the same gauge, which normally is 8 AWG. At least that is what I have experienced. What I did was use a two or three way splitter and then extension cables where needed back to it. Have you already checked to see if the cable that is already attached to the panel will or will not make it back to the connection port?

Something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Branch...41-spons&psc=1

or like this will work - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0753X68PS...n_0_title&th=1

Forester2 · 05-12-2022, 02:40 PM

Panels already connected to Y splitter then back to roof port. I tested on the outlet side of this connector and had power.
The one positive outcome is Ive been running the 12volt fridge for 3 days to test battery usage and solar makeup. As it turns out with NO solar, Im still above 13 volts.

TomC_AZ · 05-12-2022, 02:50 PM

Oh I mis read, nothing like working and reading on the side :-)

Yes the 10 AWG is better, always go with bigger on solar when you can.

Also on the batteries they will always read between 12-13v until they are almost dead. I would bet the two batteries that you have would run that fridge for a while as long as its not crazy hot outside. Its already been to 100deg here in AZ so it would run out of power sooner in this kind of weather.

I would recommend getting a battery shunt to be able to read how much power you actually have left as voltage will not show time left or used correctly on lithium batteries, you can only do this with a shunt. There are cheap ones, there are more expensive ones like the Victron. Either will work, simple to wire in.

Forester2 · 05-12-2022, 02:52 PM

I thought the controller I have shows that.

TomC_AZ · 05-12-2022, 03:28 PM

If its the OEM GoPower PWM controller (model GP-PWM-30-SQ) it does not. It will show volts and amps but it will not show the actual state or percent left of battery. If you have the JayCommand system is also only shows voltage but nothing more (unless you hack it a bit and change controller).

Even then the best way to get the true state of the batteries is to use a shunt. You would only need one even though you have two batteries. Stick with a 500a model since you have two batteries already.

Here are a few options (cheap to more expensive)
https://www.amazon.com/QWORK-Battery...8&sr=8-12&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-500A-B...-1-spons&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Victron-Smart...s%2C128&sr=8-3

Forester2 · 05-12-2022, 03:34 PM

Just watched 'All About RVs' video on shunts. Think I get it. Do they all work with lithium? Trying to figure how to wire it. Wonder if I can just go off wires from battery into controller and mount it there next to controller? Should be able to mount shunt bar inside the wall. Theres room when controllers remove or do I have to be up by battery?

TomC_AZ · 05-12-2022, 03:57 PM

So they work with any type of battery.

As for wiring them up it is really simple, but you will need to get a small battery cable. The shunt will wire directly into the neg side of the battery, closest to the battery the better, mine was originally in the battery box it is now the first connection before the buss bar on my setup. Then it will have a small power wire that will run to the positive side. The shunt takes the full load as it is either pushed (from charger) or pulled (from appliance) from the battery and tracks it.

As for the remote panel you will need to figure that one out. It usually is a telephone type cable and it does not matter where you mount that, usually people put them by the other equipment but that also depends on how hard it is to get there. I personally went with the victron one as it uses bluetooth so I just use my phone to look at it. I also have replaced the GoPower charge controller with a victron and the shunt and controller talk to eachother to provide me a bit more info on my phone.

Forester2 · 05-12-2022, 04:07 PM

Problem is with batteries on the tongue, how to run the small monitor wire to the inside. Also, the way the battery post are on the Battleborn batteries and the tight space inside my battery box I made, how to position the shunt bar. Current have 3 wires on my neg terminal: coach battery cable, jumper for parellel contection and cable for suitcase panel.
Think you guys need a visit to scenic WNY with a wiring side trip.��

EJH · 05-12-2022, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Forester2

Problem is with batteries on the tongue, how to run the small monitor wire to the inside. Also, the way the battery post are on the Battleborn batteries and the tight space inside my battery box I made, how to position the shunt bar. Current have 3 wires on my neg terminal: coach battery cable, jumper for parellel contection and cable for suitcase panel.
Think you guys need a visit to scenic WNY with a wiring side trip.��

Get a Bluetooth only shunt and you won't need to run wires inside

These things are small. You can probably mount it on top of the battery, inside the box.

Forester2 · 05-12-2022, 04:24 PM

Theyre OK outside?

TomC_AZ · 05-12-2022, 05:15 PM

Yes, mine originally was outside for 8 months, no issues as long as is under the battery box cover. BTW which model trailer do you have is it a 166? If so to move the batteries into the passthrough is VERY easy. Leaving the battery cables outside but adding new ones inside, I can explain and show pics if you want?

Forester2 · 05-13-2022, 02:55 AM

I do have a 166. Will have to move if I go to more batteries. Ordered AiLi shunt. Looking to route display wire to controller area if possible.

TomC_AZ · 05-13-2022, 06:40 AM

If you are a bit adventurous and willing to dig into the trailer a bit here is the easiest path to that location.
1. unscrew the plastic bottom from the front of the trailer. It is a bit of a pain but pull it down a bit and try to get it around the stabilizer jack on the drivers side of the trailer (might be easier if it is down some)

2. you will see the bundle of wire going up into the trailer there, if you look inside the trailer this is the bundle that comes up just behind the water heater (to see this inside lift of mattress and there is a small plywood panel that you can unscrew)

3. there should be enough room there to push that wire up through, you might need to push something stiff through the top and maybe "fish" it back through, which ever is easiest for you and what tools you have.

4. drill a small hole on the inside panel of this interior space, it will be right next to the outside drivers side wall, and in between the couch armrest and the bed. (hope that makes sense, I can provide pic if needed)

5. route wire through this new hole, run under couch (can easily remove front of couch with two screws on front of the couch, you'll see) into a black tube on other side of couch (bathroom wall)

6 in bathroom open the cabinet, take the backing plate off (couple screws), there is a large hole on side wall there toward the couch. The wire is right there.

7. this is the tricky part and may need some extra tools as you need to fish for this wire. I would take the solar controller off and pull out, it is tight but it comes out. Then using a long straight but flexible pole go down to this hole, tape wire to it and then pull back out the controller side...

You have now ran the wire to that wall and can drill/cut a hole for the display. Just be careful its a thin wall... :-)

The wire in under the couch will never move, if you look at the way the couch is setup it never touches the floor.

By the way the water heater area is also the backside of the battery disconnect. There is a opening from this area into the pass through area. This is how you can easily run 8 AWG wire from the pass through space into the backside of the battery disconnect and tie into the stock wires for the battery positive wire. The negative wire run it back through that same hole where the bundle of wire are and then up to the tongue area and you can add it to the chassis ground that is there. Very simple, no holes in the floor etc..

Hope this helps and gets the ideas flowing for you and others with this trailer.

Forester2 · 05-13-2022, 07:53 AM

Great minds think alike. I was just outside exploring that route. Was wondering how tough that bottom pan was to drop. To make life easier was thinking of putting monitor right there by the bed.
Looked at WFCOs web site and saw the 8735LiS inverter/ panel but couldnt find anyone selling. Might be worth a call or drop in when Im over that way.

TomC_AZ · 05-13-2022, 07:58 AM

Yes actually that wouldnt be a bad location for that as well. There is that "thinner" panel right at the top side of the head board next to the couch. That would be very easy to route to.

I also installed/ran wires for two 12v USB connectors there on the headboard. This way our phones and watches can recharge. That stupid "tower of power" is just not useful for us and those USB ports dont work unless you have 120v connected or inverter runnin.

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