Jay Flight- Multiple Water Leaks When Hot Water Heater On - Page 2

**JFlightRisk** · 08-28-2021, 10:30 PM

If yours has a small drip, you'll see water on the siding, or ground, under the access door. Not a big deal, just turn the water off and open a faucet hot valve to relieve any pressure, then lift the pressure relief valve lever, and let it snap shut. Any dripping should stop.

The air pocket will expand and contract as the water heats and cools, and acts as a pressure "buffer". That's why, sometimes you hear the water pump run for a fraction of a second, when you're using the water in the fresh water tank.

JaycoJeri · 08-29-2021, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TCNashville

Just remember that an RV water system is a "closed" system. As the wh heats the water, it expands and puts pressure in the plumbing system...

So if the wh is on, and one hasn't used hot water (or any water) in hours, could that theoretically put enough pressure on the system to cause plumbing leaks at either the hot or cold lines?

Quote:

Originally Posted by JFlightRisk

...Not a big deal, just turn the water off and open a faucet hot valve to relieve any pressure, then lift the pressure relief valve lever, and let it snap shut... The air pocket will expand and contract as the water heats and cools, and acts as a pressure "buffer"...

Would frequently turning a hot water faucet on/off while the wh is on (along with the air pocket thingy) eliminate pressure in the system vs having to mess with the wh relief valve? It sounds to me like using the wh only for immediate needs and then promptly turning it off avoids all these pressure/leak issues. Sure wish I was given that info during the walk through orientaton at delivery.

Lastly, could the psi at the wh relief valve when cold register any higher there than the psi coming out of the city spigot? How much is psi increased when the water heater is on? And can any faulty part in the system cause the psi to rise enough to cause leaks at any of the plumbing connections?

Thanks to all while I am trying to wrap my head around the concept of the RV plumbing system. Seems to be a whole new world vs. a "SFH" system... at least my house didn't constantly spring leaks like this.

**JFlightRisk** · 08-29-2021, 01:56 PM

The water heater is a self sufficient appliance, and really doesn't require much attention. Turning the hot water faucet on often won't cause any issues with it. We, along with 99.9% of folks use a water pressure regulator at the spigot, and just fill the water heater (if empty), turn it on, and let it do its thing. A pressure regulator protects your plumbing from high park pressure. In reality, we find park pressure to be a little on the low side from time to time.

There's a check valve attached to the back side of every water heater, that keeps pressures where they belong, and the pressure relief valve is only there as a safety feature. Ours has never released in the 9 years we've had it.

Once you've gotten the leaks figured out and fixed, you'll be fine. Most of the time it a loose connection, or a cone washer that got deformed during installation. We had one of those we found when upgrading the bathroom sink faucet to a residential model.

I don't see a need to test the water pressure inside the tank, at the pressure relief valve. It'll be the same as what the park water pressure is, hence the reason we all use a water pressure regulator. Internal heating and cooling of the water inside it doesn't increase pressure significantly.

I hope I've answered your questions to your satisfaction, and if not, let us know and we'll try to clarify any of them until it does easy your concerns.

**norty1** · 08-29-2021, 02:37 PM

As stated the relief valve is a redundant safety feature on any water heater. The only time we operate ours if to test it when the water is cold and at that only once a year. We drain our tank often and when it is drained with a hot water tap open anywhere in the system the proper air cushion in the tank will occur. Just turn the tap off when the air bubbles turn to a solid stream.

JaycoJeri · 08-29-2021, 02:59 PM

Thank you both, JFlightRisk and norty1, for precisely answering all my "what if" questions. Now I can speak more knowledgeably and know what to have the dealership focus on at my warranty appointment this week.

From day one, I installed the plastic pressure regulator that I was advised to use. This past week, I upgraded to a metal one and like it better as I'm getting about 7-10 psi higher out of my faucets and showerhead.

Should the dealership find anything extraordinary at my appointment, I will leave a followup. Otherwise, as suggested, I will conclude that my efforts of tightening everything up have resolved my issues.

Thanks immensely!!!

LuckyDuck · 08-29-2021, 05:35 PM

This may be redundant, but I don’t see how your WH is responsible for your leaks — unless they are all in hot lines/faucets. Since you have a proper regulator at the source, it would have to be a faulty connection or faucet. Or defective pex line, which would be really rare. As JFlight said, cone washers are often culprits. I had a connection at my water pump that was leaking slightly. Had an RV tech replace the coupling with a high-quality one with a “better” cone washer and it sprayed like an SOB. Still working on this. I. Hate. Plumbing. Good luck!

**JFlightRisk** · 08-29-2021, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JaycoJeri

Thank you both, JFlightRisk and norty1, for precisely answering all my "what if" questions. Now I can speak more knowledgeably and know what to have the dealership focus on at my warranty appointment this week.

From day one, I installed the plastic pressure regulator that I was advised to use. This past week, I upgraded to a metal one and like it better as I'm getting about 7-10 psi higher out of my faucets and showerhead.

Should the dealership find anything extraordinary at my appointment, I will leave a followup. Otherwise, as suggested, I will conclude that my efforts of tightening everything up have resolved my issues.

Thanks immensely!!!

You're very welcome, and we're glad we've cleared up your questions. We've all been new at this in the past, so we know the "growing pains". And yes, we'd like to hear how everything turns out.

JaycoJeri · 08-29-2021, 08:32 PM

@LuckyDuck Correct, the consensus of opinion seems to be that the wh is *not* responsible for all the leaks in my TT and that there would be no advantage to doing a water pressure gauge test at the pressure relief valve since a water pressure regulator is attached to the park spigot. I've fixed/installed lots of faucets so I know it's not that as well. Every pex line I've examined seems to be in A-1 shape as is their crimped connection bands. Sooo, I will be asking the service dept. at the dealership to focus on the toilet connection that I do not have access to... thank you Jayco for gluing the panels together - geez. I will also ask them to convert that into a removable panel after they have checked/replaced any cone washers in that area and tightened things up. They will be asked a second time (since they didn't do it the first time) to go through the entire trailer to ensure ALL plumbing nuts, p-traps, supply lines, and faucets are tight (+ check the cone washers).

@JFlightRisk Absolutely, I'll leave a followup late Wed or sometime on Thur.
(Insert crossed fingers here.)

**norty1** · 08-30-2021, 06:28 AM

I sure hope they can access and verify those unknowns. The things you have already done will likely solve many potential headaches down the road and your familiarity with the systems will make troubleshooting easier when needed.
Many owners do not know where the water pump, breaker panel...etc are until they have an serious reason to find them.

JaycoJeri · 08-30-2021, 07:17 PM

I sure hope so too norty1, thanks. Even though I'm an avid DIYer, more headaches is something I'm willing to do without, lol.

**JFlightRisk** · 08-30-2021, 08:16 PM

I try to ease the stress by thinking of a problem as a challenge. Sometimes I have to sleep on them, and solutions start to come to mind. Just me I guess.

Bayoutalker · 09-01-2021, 12:01 PM

One thought on why it is affecting the water to the toilet. Is it possible that they plumbed the line to the toilet into the hot line instead of the cold line? Might be something to check.

Fork in the road · 09-01-2021, 04:48 PM

It might be a good idea not to mention to the dealer that you are living in it full time, as this may void your warranty.

JaycoJeri · 09-02-2021, 02:04 PM

@Bayoutalker Great thought, but no, it’s a cold water line (see pic with panel off).

@Fork in the road Seriously? Not even my brother or good friend who are long-time RVers mentioned that fulltiming could void your warranty. Unfortunately, I received your advice too late anyway. The dealership is fully aware and thus far, it hasn’t been an issue.

Quote:

Originally Posted by LuckyDuck

...Since you have a proper regulator at the source, it would have to be a faulty connection or faucet. Or defective pex line, which would be really rare....

You were right on point LuckyDuck… the toilet leak (which I could not access) was caused by a loose fitting crimp band (which they told me was uncommon). The service tech tightened it & so far, it’s holding. The panel behind the toilet was not glued but stapled. I did not allow them to reattach it; I’ll put Velcro on it in the future.

The water temp tested at 145 degrees. The dealership said, “Within range… they don’t think there is a thermostat issue… and no, I can’t adjust the temp.” I actually saw the relief valve weeping when I was outside unhooking yesterday. The wh was on and yes, I mentioned that to the service mgr… he said that was normal.

The service tech yesterday “seemed” to do quality work so I’ll keep my fingers crossed. He went through the entire trailer and checked everything plumbing including moving the refrig out a little to check the shower/bathtub area to the side of it as much as possible. As I discovered a baseboard in the kitchen that was swollen with lamination lifting from one of the leaks, I have to go back in about a month to get that replaced. So now I’ve got 4 additional weeks to monitor things – yay me, lol.

Thanks to all again, you’ve been terrific!

LuckyDuck · 09-02-2021, 08:40 PM

Glad to hear you found the cause! It sounds like your dealer is being diligent and helpful, too. I hope you have some peace of mind now!

JaycoJeri · 09-02-2021, 11:05 PM

Yes, I am finally getting some peace of mind. After three visits, one would hope so.

mmerkler · 09-09-2021, 04:34 PM

Sounds like the selling dealer’s mechanic didn’t do a good PDI. They should have noticed most of the leaks when they were making the trailer ready for you. And yes. Most of it is from the factory when it was being built but the dealership should have caught it.

JaycoJeri · 09-09-2021, 07:42 PM

Correct. I wasn't taken seriously but basically ridiculed when I asked them at delivery to go through and tighten all the plumbing. My mistake was that I gave them the check beforehand. All of the leaks occurred when the water heater was on so I can only surmise IF they tested PDI, they did it with the wh off.

The dealer I'm going to for the warranty work is different than the delivering dealer and they're not perfect either. It's only because I won't discuss the work orders with anyone but the Service Director that things are eventually being resolved.

Bill 24rsb · 10-08-2021, 04:52 PM

You my have lost the air cushion at the top of the water heater. I had leaks until I put an accumulator tank in.

JaycoJeri · 10-09-2021, 01:37 PM

@Bill 24rsb
Thanks, but I'm not throwing good money after bad.

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