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04-22-2018, 10:00 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Houston
Posts: 22
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Jayco 264 BHW Wifi Camp Pro Wiring
Hello All,
We are embarking for a summer long tour with our used 2016 SLX 264 BHW TT and working on a few mods. I purchased the Wifi Camp Pro and looking to mount it to the Winegard antennae. Before I start ripping apart panels to see the best way to route the cable into the RV I wanted to see if anyone has done this and found a good way to bring the cable in from the roof. Ideally I would want to mount the device close to where the stereo is so I can tap into the power outlet there.
Any thoughts?
Wifi Camp Pro
https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-WiFi-Cam...=wifi+camp+pro
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04-23-2018, 09:48 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Brunswick
Posts: 491
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I don't know the layout of the roof on your camper, but a lot of folks like to run cables down the refrigerator vent stack. There's plenty of room and there isn't enough heat to damage the cable. If the winegard isn't too far from the refrigerator vent, that might be the way to go. In all of our RVs, there was a cabinet next to, below or above the fridge allowing easy access to any cables run down the vent stack.
-Michael
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04-24-2018, 06:10 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Houston
Posts: 22
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Ignorant question, but you mean actually inside the vent stack, not alongside it correct? Trying to find some YouTube videos of someone doling this but haven't found any as of yet.
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04-24-2018, 06:44 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Brunswick
Posts: 491
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Yes, just put the cable down the opening for the vent. Then you'll have access to it behind the refrigerator.
-Michael
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05-01-2018, 07:45 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Houston
Posts: 22
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Cool. Will try this, but still haven't found some good videos. I take it I have to remove the fridge to access the rear? How difficult is this?
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05-07-2018, 04:02 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 25
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I actually just took pictures inside my vent stack yesterday on the 23BHM. If you open the access panel on the outside of your trailer and look up this is what you see. There is a screen inside the vent cover but I’m not sure what size the mesh is. You may be able to squeeze a small cable through one of the squares, but I also saw either pictures or a video of somebody taking the top off of the vent cover and cutting the mesh.
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05-07-2018, 05:49 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Houston
Posts: 22
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Thanks. I actually tinkered around a bit this past weekend and took the vent cover off. I should be able to cut a small hole in the wire mesh and route the cable through there. Instead of going all the way down, it looks like the wall behind the microwave is there and I can drill a hole to pass the cable there. The microwave was easy peesey to remove. Just 4 screws.
The only issue I have is that the closest power to tap into is the electric for the microwave. Not sure if I want to splice into that. The other options is on the opposite side where the radio is. I removed the panel and have access to all the wires and the hole where the cables come in. Looks to be directly below the radio antennae. I'll have to remove the dicor around the antennae to see if I can pass the cable there and into the cabinet. I can easily splice into the DC cable from there. Pics below.
Also, can someone explain the coax cable and DC power to the TV. Is the DC outlet really just for the TV? whats with the dual coax and the grey coax. (apologies in advance for the ignorant questions).
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05-07-2018, 09:32 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 25
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IIRC, you would use that coax to loop in a cable box.
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05-08-2018, 04:30 AM
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#9
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: James Island, SC
Posts: 22,753
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I would have no problem changing out the outlet that feeds the MW for a duplex to power your booster. Most microwaves in our stick home are not plugged into a dedicated breaker but every one I have had in a rv was feed by one.
What you are wanting to power is hardly any load to share with a microwave IMO. I have done that on several rigs to power a under-counter light.
I added a small 120v muffin fan to help vent my microwave and it's powered from the same outlet as the MW.
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05-08-2018, 05:00 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Tower City
Posts: 255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oscarp77
Thanks. I actually tinkered around a bit this past weekend and took the vent cover off. I should be able to cut a small hole in the wire mesh and route the cable through there. Instead of going all the way down, it looks like the wall behind the microwave is there and I can drill a hole to pass the cable there. The microwave was easy peesey to remove. Just 4 screws.
The only issue I have is that the closest power to tap into is the electric for the microwave. Not sure if I want to splice into that. The other options is on the opposite side where the radio is. I removed the panel and have access to all the wires and the hole where the cables come in. Looks to be directly below the radio antennae. I'll have to remove the dicor around the antennae to see if I can pass the cable there and into the cabinet. I can easily splice into the DC cable from there. Pics below.
Also, can someone explain the coax cable and DC power to the TV. Is the DC outlet really just for the TV? whats with the dual coax and the grey coax. (apologies in advance for the ignorant questions).
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The DC outlet is to power a 12 volt TV, plus on mine it has the button to turn on/off the antenna amp.
I always thought the gray coax was to push the signal to other TV locations.
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05-10-2018, 08:51 PM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Houston
Posts: 22
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My fear is not overloading, but I'm worried that when the microwave turns on it causes the power to drop on the circuit which may cause an issue with the repeater. Opposite of a power surge I guess. I'm not an engineer so would love to hear from everyone.
Either way, I'm tapping into the nearby light fixture.
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