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Old 02-15-2015, 09:31 AM   #1
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Just hit the road full-time. What is my maximum speed?

2010 Eagle 318RLS Fiberglass. 2015 Chevy 3500 crew 4x4. After much debate, I decided not to go with the weight distribution hitch. Did a direct connect. Made some newbe mistakes, like brought too much weight with me and didn't empty any of the tanks. It seemed that anything over 40 mph it was all over the road. Now all over the road does not mean it was swaying, no. Shouldn't have even use that term. Let's just say it felt unstable. Call it 30 years experience of being a contractor towing things and I could just tell it didn't feel like it was under control. It just didn't feel right.

I drained the holding tanks and the water tank and picked up about an extra 400 pounds. Then I got rid of some 5 gallon containers of water which is another 250. So I dump 650 pounds including taking the propane bottles off of the front and putting them in the rear of the trailer. She's riding much much better now. Still, my speed seems to be about 50 mph. Anything over that and she starts to not feel right. Not sway now, I have no sway at all. I've got it loaded to prevent that. So I don't know how to describe it, but if I have to, I would say the tires need to be so much more stiffer. I would say I'm just carrying too much weight still.

I don't know why, but I just envisioned that I would be able to sail down the road at 70 mph with no issues at all. Now that I'm actually driving this thing on the interstate it is obvious that is not going to apply. So I have a couple of questions and also, my main question is simply this. Is that normal? Should I be able to cruise down the interstate at 70, or was that never really going to happen and I was just stupid?

1) Does it have to be level? Right now the front is pointed down a foot or so, as I didn't want to use a high-rise hitch because the load rating was lower than my straight hitch. It's not awful, but it's obviously not level. Is there any rule that says it has to be level to pull it?

2) Don't understand why they only have load rated C tires on this thing. It seems to me that it is begging for some load E tires. If I take a turn, one of the tires literally looks like it's coming out from under the rim. But it has its maximum air pressure and weight I am carrying is not enough to make it do that. Only on turns ?? Think I am going to upgrade to some stiffer tires, there is no way that can hurt.
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Old 02-15-2015, 09:53 AM   #2
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There is now way I would have this just sitting on a ball.
Unloaded Vehicle Weight 6,335
Hitch Weight (lbs) 820
Gross Vehicle Weight (lbs) 7,950
Cargo Carrying Capacity (lbs) 1,615
You need a WDH and sway!!!! That is why it doesn't feel fight going down the road. Measure the truck up with and with out the trailer hooked up. Good luck to those driving near you.
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Old 02-15-2015, 10:03 AM   #3
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A few observations,


Since you elected to not go with a WD system, you likely have no sway control as well. Sway control could help with your issues. And are you exceeding the limits of your hitch without a WD system? Many hitches have greatly reduced capacities if a WD system is not used. A quality WD system with integrated sway control could help.

Your trailer should be level or only very slightly nose down. I would say a foot is too much.

Moving weight to the rear or having your rear waste tanks full would possibly promote sway or what you are experiencing. A tongue light trailer is more likely to sway or be squirrely. 10-15% TW is desirable.

I tow at 65 MPH with none of the symptoms you are describing, my trailer has always towed well for me. So yes you should be able to tow at interstate speeds with no problem if everything is set up properly. Many ST tires are only rated to 65MPH, so I try not to go over that.

After a blowout this Fall I went up a load range as well on my trailer tires.
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Old 02-15-2015, 10:05 AM   #4
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A WDH will solve most if not all your issues. In addition, your tongue weight probably exceeds your max hitch weight (not using a WDH). Personally I wouldn't ever consider a trailer that size without a WDH. Tow vehicle size has no effect on needing one or not.
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Old 02-15-2015, 10:27 AM   #5
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I avg about 60mph with my 2014 248RBS. I am towing with a 2012 1500 Silverado tow pkg and a equalizer wdh. I have notice wind and road condictions have allot to do with speed, also with the fuel gauge
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Old 02-15-2015, 10:33 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillMc40 View Post
There is now way I would have this just sitting on a ball.
Unloaded Vehicle Weight 6,335
Hitch Weight (lbs) 820
Gross Vehicle Weight (lbs) 7,950
Cargo Carrying Capacity (lbs) 1,615
You need a WDH and sway!!!! That is why it doesn't feel fight going down the road. Measure the truck up with and with out the trailer hooked up. Good luck to those driving near you.
billMc
Getting off subject and don't want to open up the WDH talk again. I'm not a dummy and no, a WDH is NOT causing these issues. I listed my truck information for a purpose. It is a 3500 1 ton pick up, rated at 1500 tongue weight and 15,000 capacity. I am also using a ball and hitch that is rated at 1500 tongue weight and 15,000 pds. Your glorified weight distribution hitch only has a 1200 tongue and 12,000 pound rating...

The back of my truck barely comes down a couple inches after loading this thing up, and that was with a 1400 pound tongue weight. But I lowered the tongue weight down to around 1200. Which is really an absolute perfect way to prevent sway. Adding the weight distribution hitch is not going to deal with the problem I'm talking about, I think stiffer tires will.

WDH are specifically designed for vehicles that can't handle the weight, people using SUVs, 1500s and even 2500's. My 3500 1 ton does not require one.

Not trying to start arguments here I really am not. But best not to leap out and offer advice that is incorrect to others.
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Old 02-15-2015, 10:34 AM   #7
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I drive 57-60 MPH. Or just follow the trucks. In California 55 is the law.
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Old 02-15-2015, 10:45 AM   #8
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Thinkl what you want, most here will tell you, pickup shouldn't change more then 1/4 to 1/2 inch with the trailer sitting on it. You are probally smarter then I am. you do not feel what is really going on inn the front end due to the computers. The assited steering. What ever, I will pray for those who you drive by.
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Old 02-15-2015, 10:57 AM   #9
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Thinkl what you want, most here will tell you, pickup shouldn't change more then 1/4 to 1/2 inch with the trailer sitting on it. You are probally smarter then I am. you do not feel what is really going on inn the front end due to the computers. The assited steering. What ever, I will pray for those who you drive by.
BillMc
1/4 inch drop??? That has to be the most absurd thing I've ever read. Pick ups are designed to take a load, that's what the leaf springs do. The more load, the more they give. Stating a quarter-inch drop after hooking up 9000 pounds just is totally ridiculous and there is nothing wrong with the back of your truck droppin a couple of inches under load, specifically what the truck is designed to do.

I can tell you the type of person now doesn't want to admit they are incorrect so just let it go would you please? Weight distribution hitches distributes the weight. You don't need to distribute the weight when you have a vehicle that can handle the weight. They are not for everybody..
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Old 02-15-2015, 11:01 AM   #10
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The whole point of a WDH is to distribute the weight evenly from the rear to the front.
With a 3500 you have some really high rated springs on the back so there is not much "Squat" when hitching up with a heavy tongue weight, but when you put a lot of weight on the back, it still lightens up the weight on the front of your truck no matter the rating of the truck.
A heaver tongue weight on the trailer will make it tow more stable and putting that heaver hitch weight distributed on the rear axle and front axle will make the truck have a solid feel at higher speeds.
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