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Old 10-06-2020, 11:41 PM   #1
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Kitchen faucet leaking in White Hawk 2018 TT

My 2018 White Hawk TT kitchen faucet just started leaking in the past two days as we are camping. At the suggestion of our service rep via phone we have tried switching from city water to use of fresh water tank. That did not work. I have drained the fresh tank and returned to city water. Since there is no shut off for the kitchen sink visible under the sink we have resorted to detaching the city water hose when not using water, but that is no way to camp hooking up the water every time you want to use the bathroom or sink.

My service rep suggested I find a Jayco dealer and have them replace the faucet. The only dealer within an hour of where I am now says warranty work is a 3 week wait. Tomorrow I head to Chattanooga area for a week.

Does anyone know a way to shut off the water to kitchen sink without turning off water to bathroom on this model without a shutoff under sink?

Does anyone know a Jayco dealer in Chattanooga area that would take me in quickly for a fast repair?

My countertops are literally peeling off from the water damage. I need help. Thanks
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Old 10-07-2020, 05:10 AM   #2
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I would ask Jayco for a mobile tech contact. Have him repair and also add 1/4 turn shutoff valves on both supply hoses.

It may be just a loose cartridge nut or something simple.
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Old 10-07-2020, 05:47 AM   #3
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Thank you

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I would ask Jayco for a mobile tech contact. Have him repair and also add 1/4 turn shutoff valves on both supply hoses.

It may be just a loose cartridge nut or something simple.

ThNk you very much norty1. I did t know Jayco had mobile techs. I will call Jayco customer service this morning and make the request
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Old 10-07-2020, 07:20 AM   #4
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ThNk you very much norty1. I did t know Jayco had mobile techs. I will call Jayco customer service this morning and make the request
They do not have mobile techs but they will authorize you to contact one in many circumstances. make sure to get authorization before making the repairs or it will be on your dime. BTW, I would pay for it out of pocket to get back to camping.
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Old 10-07-2020, 07:36 AM   #5
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DUNLAP Family RV in Ringold GA (Exit 348 I-75) just South of Chattanooga is a JAYCO dealer.
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Old 10-07-2020, 10:36 PM   #6
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Would a residential faucet work on your sink? I installed them on both of our sinks as quick and easy mod. If you can do it oh, it would save a lot of time and hassle trying to deal with Jayco and a repair.
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Old 10-08-2020, 06:14 AM   #7
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Would a residential faucet work on your sink? I installed them on both of our sinks as quick and easy mod. If you can do it oh, it would save a lot of time and hassle trying to deal with Jayco and a repair.
X2. Ours started leaking when we were in New Mexico. Went to Home Depot and bought a Delta faucet. It's not a hard job,but if your not comfortable doing it yourself have Jayco do it. You will end up with a much better faucet.
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Old 10-15-2020, 08:57 PM   #8
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Turn your water off. Drain water out. Go get two 1/2 inch shark bite quarter turn valve at lowes or hd. 2 flexible faucet lines. Get a PVC pex cutter. About 10 bucks.

Water off, drain lines, cut pex lines. Might as well do both. Shove shark bite valves down on the pex lines hard. Put flexible faucet lines on. Tighten and turn off one leaking. Better yet just get a good faucet and put in on while your at it.

First thing I did in my 2 month old coach is take out cheap plastic sink faucet. Put shut off valves on. Then install a good one. Now, I need water off, just turn a valve. Damn shame builders don't put them on, but if they did, they would be the cheap plastic ones. I also cut those off of my low point drains and put shark bite valves on those. That was week one.

Took me literally 10 minutes to take out old faucet. Cut lines. Put shark bites on. Drop new faucet in and install new lines. No more worries.
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Old 10-15-2020, 09:04 PM   #9
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Quick and easy upgrade

We had a bathroom faucet that did not leak but made a bad noise when the hot water handle was turned. Picked up a residential faucet from Lowe’s and swapped them out in less than 30 minutes. The same will hold true for the kitchen faucet.

I know it goes against the grain when it should be a warranty issue, but a quick hangs that you should be able to easily do might salvage your trip.

Best of luck.
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Old 10-16-2020, 01:23 PM   #10
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i hate my kitchen faucet I'm
thing of doing this. what is a good cheap replacement for Jayco kitchen faucet. is the hole spacing the same on a residential faucet as this plastic junk?
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Old 10-16-2020, 01:33 PM   #11
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Good cheap?
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Old 10-16-2020, 01:40 PM   #12
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Good cheap?
value sub $80
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Old 10-16-2020, 02:53 PM   #13
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Hole Spacing for Faucets

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i hate my kitchen faucet I'm
thing of doing this. what is a good cheap replacement for Jayco kitchen faucet. is the hole spacing the same on a residential faucet as this plastic junk?
I have change out to so far on my TT and my dad’s Class A. One in the bath on mine, the kitchen in my dad’s. Hole spacing was the same on both as residential faucets. Both were easy replacements. Picked up good quality faucets at Lowe’s, but I’m sure you can get good faucets at multiple places.
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Old 10-28-2020, 01:20 PM   #14
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found a couple of faucets on ebay and some push to connect SharkBite style supply line cutoffs. now i am debating on installing both before i winterize. or waiting until spring.
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Old 10-28-2020, 05:00 PM   #15
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It's easy. If I can do it anybody can.
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Old 10-29-2020, 10:20 AM   #16
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I rehab houses for flip or rental and use sharkbite or the brand at menard's, whichever is closer to me at the time, plus pex for all of my plumbing upgrades. I still solder copper when necessary, but the sharkbites are just too easy to use! When you get behind the wall of a 70 year old house, those old valves start to leak the minute you close them and they never stop, the sharks have a ball for a quarter turn shut off and don't self destruct like the older types. The only thing I'd be afraid of by putting them on my drains is that someone with a pocket knife might think they should have them and not me. Something to consider about those faucets is to buy a brand that has inexpensive repair parts just about anywhere you go....for me it's Delta. Renters can destroy anything and the Delta faucets fix fast without tools.
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Old 10-29-2020, 11:32 AM   #17
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I rehab houses for flip or rental and use sharkbite or the brand at menard's, whichever is closer to me at the time, plus pex for all of my plumbing upgrades. I still solder copper when necessary, but the sharkbites are just too easy to use! When you get behind the wall of a 70 year old house, those old valves start to leak the minute you close them and they never stop, the sharks have a ball for a quarter turn shut off and don't self destruct like the older types. The only thing I'd be afraid of by putting them on my drains is that someone with a pocket knife might think they should have them and not me. Something to consider about those faucets is to buy a brand that has inexpensive repair parts just about anywhere you go....for me it's Delta. Renters can destroy anything and the Delta faucets fix fast without tools.
i got a delta and a
Peerless Bayside Brushed Nickel 2-handle 4-in Bathroom Sink Faucet w/ drain New
P9964OLF-BN for $20.94 shipped
and i got a Delta Foundations 2 Handle Kitchen Faucet Brilliance Stainless 21987LF-SS for $52.99 shipped

and i got some knock off SharkBite cutoff valves

4 PIECES 1/2" PUSH FIT X 3/8" OD SHARKBITE STYLE 1/4-TURN STRAIGHT STOP VALVE! $15.89 shipped. those things are like $11 each at Lowes or HD. for the name brand. I hope these are as good.


and i have some braided supply lines left over from when they built my house. they are pretty long I'm thing about buying some 12" ones. the ones i have are 20 something in.

do you put any sealant under the faucets or caulk around them after installing to protect the counter top saw dust board from water dameage?
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Old 10-29-2020, 12:06 PM   #18
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I use plumber's putty for drains. I use teflon sealant on threads, NOT TAPE. Teflon tape is to make threads draw tighter, not seal. What I've been using for years is Class C Solutions Group pipe sealant with ptfe part number 22829.
I use a standard pipe dope on all gas line fittings and black pipe. It's code and most inspectors will reject if not used.
For sealant under fixtures, around sinks/tubs, shower doors etc.; I use Lexel or Dap UltraClear. Lexel is available in a small tube, rather than a cartridge, for small jobs. They are both urethane, not silicone or latex, are 100% waterproof, can be applied to themselves after cure and bond to the cured material, can be painted, are available in white as well as clear and so on. They cost more, but do more. I rarely use silicone any more since it yellows, shrinks, and cannot be applied over itself. No way to paint silicone if needed. Latex caulk is mostly used anymore for color match to grout when tiling.
If I determine a fixture needs a sealant, I usually apply to the fixture sparingly so as to not ooze all over the place and require cleanup. However, the one exception is sealing tub walls to tubs, toilets to floor and so on. These require a nicely laid bead at the seam so dirt and debris doesn't get into the seam. I tape both sides with a slight 1/16th reveal, lay a bead and smooth with a finger. Here's the trick for smoothing a bead of each type of sealant...if latex caulk, wet the finger with dish detergent and water mix, if silicone, wet the finger with denatured alcohol, if urethane wet the finger with mineral spirits. If it's a long bead, I will spray the 'wet' onto the bead as a very lightly applied mist and draw the finger in one motion. Pull the tape right away.

As far as the knock offs, spray a bit of wd40 on the tube before inserting and that should protect any o ring from scraping when inserted.
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Old 10-29-2020, 03:43 PM   #19
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I hate to say it, and I love saving money, but when it comes to water and plumbing issues, I buy the top of the line. You ever come back to to a flooded trailer because your cheap plastic faucet cracked. I will not do that again. Water running out from everywhere. I want metal faucet attachment points. You will pay more but you should not have worry about cross threading them, and they last.

The cheap ones may last and be just as good. No idea, but I feel better anyway with the name brand valves.
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Old 10-29-2020, 04:06 PM   #20
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I hate to say it, and I love saving money, but when it comes to water and plumbing issues, I buy the top of the line. You ever come back to to a flooded trailer because your cheap plastic faucet cracked. I will not do that again. Water running out from everywhere. I want metal faucet attachment points. You will pay more but you should not have worry about cross threading them, and they last.

The cheap ones may last and be just as good. No idea, but I feel better anyway with the name brand valves.
The ones I got where metal. Well at least the one that has came in is all metal. Delta lifetime warranty. And they do stand behind their products. I have had them replace 2 at mom and dads that where distroyed by city water. Bought in 1992 pre lifetime warranty. And they sold me at a deep deep discount 2 new ones. Like $20 or $30 for a kitchen sink fixture that sold for over $100 at Lowe’s.

Price Pfister replaced one at the lake and at my wife’s grandparents house I think I had to pay the $12 shipping. That was years ago.

And Kohler replaced one with hardly any questions at my in-laws. So the big names may be $$ but at least they stand behind their faucets.
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