Leveling trailer

[DCook]

first tandem axle TT. Have not had it out yet. When leveling side to side, do you have to put blocks under both wheels?

[Old Blue]

I always do but there are some that only do 1 wheel its kind of what ever works for you I use wood or those Linx blocks what ever is handy at the time

[Plowtoy]

I always do. I have seen people put blocks on both sides of the camper, but never knew why. You only have to get the low side up to level. If you have a slide, you may want to compansate for the extra weight once its out. If I have to add weight to that side, I always go a little over level on that side to allow it to sink a little once its out.

[KiltDog]

I read somewhere that if you only block under 1 wheel it gives you half the lift of blocking under both. Having said that, I've only ever blocked under both wheels. I keep 2 4' 2x6's in the front compartment and that usually does it

[oldmanAZ]

Originally Posted by DCook

first tandem axle TT. Have not had it out yet. When leveling side to side, do you have to put blocks under both wheels?

If you put, say, 1" blocks under both wheels (on the same side) it will raise that side by 1". If you put one 1" block under one wheel, you will raise that side by about 1/2".

[Scoutr2]

Originally Posted by oldmanAZ

If you put, say, 1" blocks under both wheels (on the same side) it will raise that side by 1". If you put one 1" block under one wheel, you will raise that side by about 1/2".

X2. If you are going to be in the same spot for several days, you can get the level very close by only blocking one wheel, if needed. That way, the bacon grease doesn't all run to one side of the pan and your sink will drain completely, etc. This is especially nice when you have full hookups - the black tank will drain completely.

I don't usually worry about it for just a 1-2 night stay, though.

Mike

[mike837go]

Linx levers under both wheels.


As has been mentioned, under 1 wheel gets 1/2 the lift.

[Camper_bob]

I've always used the Lynx levelers, one under each wheel has been all I've ever needed. I usually am only there for 3 nights max, so a little bit out of level has never really bothered me enough to only do one wheel. But I would do it if I needed to be that close or if I were staying for a long time.

Compensating for the slide is good advice. My slide is enough to pull the trailer out of level enough to be annoying if I don't do it right. But since I level the trailer first, then put down the stabs, then run the slide out, it's usually not an issue for me.

[scottraycraft]

sleeping in a trailer that is not level can cause back and neck pain...
not to mention its bad for the fridge...

I always block the tires on the low side...

[oldmanAZ]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

snip...
Compensating for the slide is good advice. My slide is enough to pull the trailer out of level enough to be annoying if I don't do it right. But since I level the trailer first, then put down the stabs, then run the slide out, it's usually not an issue for me.

I level the trailer, put down the stabilizers, and then run out the slide. I haven't been compensating for the slide. The slide side has always (so far) ended up dropping that side of the trailer a tad lower when slide is out, but not enough to bother DW or me.

I do like it that way because if it should rain, the water will run to the outside of the slide and not against the seal on the inside. (Only in theory so far... no rain when camping ... YET!)

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by scottraycraft

sleeping in a trailer that is not level can cause back and neck pain...
not to mention its bad for the fridge...

I always block the tires on the low side...

Truth. I'm always WELL within specs for the fridge, and my own sleeping comfort. You also don't want to sleep with your head "downhill", you'll get a nasty headache. So I usually run the nose just a little high, still in the bubble, but just off to one side a little. If I have it just right, I can get the AC condensation to run off the streetside rear of the roof which is nice sometimes. If I'm perfectly level and stabilized, then run the slide out, it tends run off the streetside front, which ain't half bad either.

[314BHDS]

I do slides out then level,i find it easier than just trying to guess 1 block or 2 blocks to compensate for the slides.Both my slides are on the same side,and on a few occasions that side was high and I had to put lynx block on other side.It doesn't hurt the trailer to pull forward 6" onto the leveling blocks.

[robkelly]

I've always blocked under both weeks, and with opposing slides, don't have to worry about one pulling me off balance.

Not sure what TT the OP has, nor if it makes a difference, but with wide-stance axles you may have to use blocks under both wheels.

[Scoutr2]

Originally Posted by 314BHDS

I do slides out then level,i find it easier than just trying to guess 1 block or 2 blocks to compensate for the slides.Both my slides are on the same side,and on a few occasions that side was high and I had to put lynx block on other side.It doesn't hurt the trailer to pull forward 6" onto the leveling blocks.

This is totally your call, but I would not recommend this procedure. In order to put blocks or leveling links beneath the tires, you must move the trailer forward and backward to pull up on top of them. Moving the trailer with the slides out is not recommended by Jayco, due to stresses it could induce on the slide mechanism(s).

That aside, my left side (not door side) slide is over the wheels, so I'd have to crawl beneath it to put levelers down.

And I sometimes have to move the trailer forward and rearward 2-3 times in order to get it leveled right. My procedure is as follows (after using my circuit protector to determine if the electrical hookup is good):

1. Level trailer side-to-side with leveling blocks
2. Put the BAL locking chocks between the wheels (or use wheel chocks)
3. Disconnect trailer from truck
4. Use the tongue jack to level front-to-rear
5. Put the stabilizer jacks down, firmly, to prevent further leaning
6. Move the slideouts into position

If the stabilizers are put down, firmly, they should prevent leaning when the slideout is extended. That was my experience with my Outback. But my Jayco has two slideouts - one on each side.

Just my experienced opinion.

[rmsorcy]

I'm a new owner of my first TT and have been reading about leveling, side to side. So far I've been out twice and have had level sites. I've seen leveling blocks in a couple of retail stores and wonder if that would be a good investment for me. Also, how do you go about using them?

Thanks, in advance, for your input.

[KiltDog]

Originally Posted by rmsorcy

I'm a new owner of my first TT and have been reading about leveling, side to side. So far I've been out twice and have had level sites. I've seen leveling blocks in a couple of retail stores and wonder if that would be a good investment for me. Also, how do you go about using them?

Thanks, in advance, for your input.

Personally, I'd head to the shop and grab some scrap 2x. If not, the big box stores usually have scrap lumber in a bin for a few bucks. I'd spend the least amount of money possible.

[NDJollyMon]

Originally Posted by Scoutr2

That was my experience with my Outback. But my Jayco has two slideouts - one on each side.

Just my experienced opinion.

Scoutr....were you an OUTBACKER by chance? (outbackers.com)

[oldmanAZ]

Originally Posted by rmsorcy

I'm a new owner of my first TT and have been reading about leveling, side to side. So far I've been out twice and have had level sites. I've seen leveling blocks in a couple of retail stores and wonder if that would be a good investment for me. Also, how do you go about using them?

Thanks, in advance, for your input.

The first step would be to have a level handy when you go camping. Sites may look level, but may not be.

You'll get different opinions regarding wooden level blocks vs plastic ones you've seen. Each has its pros and cons. I use 2x8 wood lumber because I'm frugal (ie cheap).

In general, you put blocks in front or behind the tires on the trailer's low side. Then you pull the trailer up onto the blocks and check for side-to-side level again. If the same side is still low, you pull off the blocks, add another level of blocks, and pull back onto the blocks, and check level again.

When you are satisfied that the trailer is level enough from side-to-side, chock the tires, and disconnect. Then you can level the trailer from front to rear and extend the stabilizers.

That's it in a nutshell. If you'd like more specific info, just ask.

[Scoutr2]

Originally Posted by NDJollyMon

Scoutr....were you an OUTBACKER by chance? (outbackers.com)

Yes, I was. Well, still have an account there. And I leave Saturday to visit Wolfwood to see Judi and Kathy!

[ecoboosteagle]

http://youtu.be/b4JQV15VzBc

I use these, works very well. you can buy them on Amazon. little pricey but worth it.

if the link is broken just search for Anderson Auto Leveler