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Old 08-05-2015, 09:01 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by tuckerdog1 View Post
Touareg tongue weight is 770 lbs.

Ok. We excluded the Touraeg specifically because the manual only allowed 600 (I'm recalling now maybe it was 616) tongue weight. I know some people were comfy going with 10% of Max allowable tongue weight. But I'm a manual follower. Ha ha.
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Old 08-05-2015, 10:32 PM   #12
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Ok. We excluded the Touraeg specifically because the manual only allowed 600 (I'm recalling now maybe it was 616) tongue weight. I know some people were comfy going with 10% of Max allowable tongue weight. But I'm a manual follower. Ha ha.
In Europe the Touareg tongue weight is 100 lbs. more than what the states use as the rating. The Europe rating is correct it's over 700 lbs. From what I was able to gather the insurance companies for the states lowered it.
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Old 08-05-2015, 10:40 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Tunce the traveler View Post
In Europe the Touareg tongue weight is 100 lbs. more than what the states use as the rating. The Europe rating is correct it's over 700 lbs. From what I was able to gather the insurance companies for the states lowered it.

That could be. I'm in Canada and we don't have the same sue rate as the USA, so why they would lower ours too, I have no idea. I had thought that the Euro tongue weight was also 600ish since they tow with lighter tongues than we do. But I could easily be remembering incorrectly since it was last summer I did the research and was researching a few SUVs at the time.

I was trying to find an SUV that could tow our X213 since what we had, couldn't. Good thing we went for a truck though as our tongue is over 770 anyway and we'd have been out of payload in a SUV of that size.

Sure like the look of the Touareg though.
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Old 08-05-2015, 11:00 PM   #14
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So weight issues aside, it's fairly straightforward. I just finished moving a pair of golf cart batteries to the rear bumper of our 264BH. In our case I couldn't get the tongue weight down to a comfortable range without moving those 2 heavy parts to the rear. I had a shop fabricate a tray out of angle iron to fit the bases of the two boxes, used square d-rings to hold it in place, and strapped the batteries around the bumper. Ran new 2 gauge wires to frame ground and up the existing access holes to the spot under the fridge where the power goes. Added a 50 amp breaker similar to the one the factory mounted on the front frame to the rear frame.

Make sure you tie in the existing wiring to the front, the emergency brake and tongue Jack if you have one rely on that power. I also reinforced the bumper "just in case" with the brackets from mount-n-lock.

https://www.mount-n-lock.com/product...e-safetystruts

Worked out great, just finished a 1500 mile trip with the new setup and its rock solid.
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Old 08-06-2015, 12:09 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by tuckerdog1 View Post
Touareg tongue weight is 770 lbs. I don't think the spare tire + battery will come to 100 lbs. Might be close, but I think it will be less. The generator is a Champion 2800, which specs say weighs 84 lbs. So I'm thinking it could be a pretty good swap weight wise.

Would there be any wiring issues for the battery?

Thanks again,
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Tucker: let the "weight guys" battle that fight out.

As for the electrics... just determine the gauge of the wire running to the battery right now. Buy the next size heavier gauge wire (cable) and use that heavy stuff to run to the tail of the camper. You can leave all your connections where they are, probably under the nose cap of the trailer, and just splice in and extend back to the rear of the camper. That would be the simplest and quickest, and you wouldn't need to be digging around in the coach and drilling additional water-inlet holes. Wrap the cables in some nice 1" split loom, cable tie the whole assembly to the trailer frame rails, and you're good to go. Just figure on something like $0.80 per foot, and you'll need a positive line, a negative line, and probably another hot line to feed the trailer A-Frame jack. (And maybe another smaller wire that the converter uses for voltage testing.)

Whatever weight changes, both the battery and the genny will need additional steel to hold them secure. I'm sure you can figure out how to over build to get the tongue weight back to where you have it now.

This stuff isn't rocket science, but you need to respect it.
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Old 08-06-2015, 11:42 AM   #16
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By any chance, please could you post some pics with the mod? I will need to do this on my future White Hawk.

Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by skylarkva View Post
So weight issues aside, it's fairly straightforward. I just finished moving a pair of golf cart batteries to the rear bumper of our 264BH. In our case I couldn't get the tongue weight down to a comfortable range without moving those 2 heavy parts to the rear. I had a shop fabricate a tray out of angle iron to fit the bases of the two boxes, used square d-rings to hold it in place, and strapped the batteries around the bumper. Ran new 2 gauge wires to frame ground and up the existing access holes to the spot under the fridge where the power goes. Added a 50 amp breaker similar to the one the factory mounted on the front frame to the rear frame.

Make sure you tie in the existing wiring to the front, the emergency brake and tongue Jack if you have one rely on that power. I also reinforced the bumper "just in case" with the brackets from mount-n-lock.

https://www.mount-n-lock.com/product...e-safetystruts

Worked out great, just finished a 1500 mile trip with the new setup and its rock solid.
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Old 08-06-2015, 12:50 PM   #17
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As for the electrics... just determine the gauge of the wire running to the battery right now. Buy the next size heavier gauge wire (cable) and use that heavy stuff to run to the tail of the camper. You can leave all your connections where they are, probably under the nose cap of the trailer, and just splice in and extend back to the rear of the camper. That would be the simplest and quickest, and you wouldn't need to be digging around in the coach and drilling additional water-inlet holes. Wrap the cables in some nice 1" split loom, cable tie the whole assembly to the trailer frame rails, and you're good to go. Just figure on something like $0.80 per foot, and you'll need a positive line, a negative line, and probably another hot line to feed the trailer A-Frame jack. (And maybe another smaller wire that the converter uses for voltage testing.)

Thanks CTBAILEY. This was what I was concerned about. I know next to zip about working with electrical dodads. I have heard about voltage drop, and was afraid that could be an issue here. Seems beefing up the wire guage is an easy fix.

I did just check my owner's manual for the Touareg. It has been in the shop for a week ( adios $3K ). The manual says 770 lbs tongue weight.

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Old 08-06-2015, 07:47 PM   #18
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I did just check my owner's manual for the Touareg. It has been in the shop for a week ( adios $3K ). The manual says 770 lbs tongue weight.

Tuckerdog1
That's awesome! I did some more research today as I thought I was going bonkers and it seems that there has been conflicting info and some people's manuals say 770 and others say 616. Some people had a new hitch sticker sent to them by VW. The one I read last summer said 616. I guess it's lucky for me it didn't say 770 anyway though as then I'd have a new Touraeg in the driveway and would be over the RAWR and over payload. LOL
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Old 08-06-2015, 08:30 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by tuckerdog1 View Post

Thanks CTBAILEY. This was what I was concerned about. I know next to zip about working with electrical dodads. I have heard about voltage drop, and was afraid that could be an issue here. Seems beefing up the wire guage is an easy fix.

If you go this route and extend to the front, keep in mind that you only need to run the positive wire. Your ground goes directly to the frame, you want to bolt it on as close to the battery as practical.
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Old 08-06-2015, 08:31 PM   #20
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By any chance, please could you post some pics with the mod? I will need to do this on my future White Hawk.



Thanks!

Yea, I'll try to remember to get a few pics tomorrow.
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