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Old 04-11-2018, 10:06 AM   #21
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Did the jack come with a crank to manually raise and lower it?
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Old 04-13-2018, 05:55 AM   #22
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Jack/Radio Problem

Let us know the outcome. If battery leads are hooked up correctly with the lead from the jack motor hooked to the hot bat terminal, then the inline fuse is blown and/or the battery could be dead. No idea on the Radio.
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Old 04-13-2018, 06:24 AM   #23
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It's a good idea to put red tape or red nylon ty-wraps around the wires connected to the positive battery terminal. My last trailer had 4 positive battery wires. 2 were black, 1 was green, only 1 was red. Easy to forget if you take your battery out for the winter!
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Old 04-14-2018, 11:22 AM   #24
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Chiming in, I just installed a battery disconnect switch. After testing I found that the electric jack was inop as well as it's associated led light. I discovered that the BLACK wire (which IS positive) that runs from the jack - Junction box behind battery boxes - Battery had broken. The wire is located inside of some convoluted black tubing mounted to the hitch frame. I had 12v going to the broken end of wire to junction box/battery so I took apart the electric jack cover (easy job) and ran a jumper wire from the battery to the Electric Jack...Viola!. Instead of running new wire, I just pulled the black wire from the jack and rewired directly to the battery as I had a circuit breaker inside already.
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Old 04-14-2018, 12:53 PM   #25
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Something I've never understood is why rv manufacturers use standard "interior" electrical boxes outside for 12 volt connections near the battery. They are not sealed and eventually connections inside are going to corrode. I've had it happen with two different trailers. I guess it's not against code since it's 12 volts, but you wouldn't find anything like that in a car or truck.
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