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Old 04-15-2018, 08:50 AM   #21
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Right on, glad you're up and running.

Question - the RV thermostats are 12V so you can run the furnace on battery power. Are the residential thermostats also 12V so they can also be used without AC power?
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Old 04-15-2018, 09:33 AM   #22
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Right on, glad you're up and running.

Question - the RV thermostats are 12V so you can run the furnace on battery power. Are the residential thermostats also 12V so they can also be used without AC power?
Most residential thermostats require 24 VAC for operation.
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Old 04-20-2018, 06:14 AM   #23
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So then how are these residential thermostats working in an RV?
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Old 04-20-2018, 06:31 AM   #24
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There is, and the colors dont match what is in the original thermostat.

It seems as if there is a fuse or reset that needs to happen. All fuses in canin checked and breakers are good.
Why do people jump on residential style tstats to replace the oem?? The Coleman digital is a wire to wire exact match and are designed to operate on the RV units. I installed one and it works great.

Cut your losses and get a Coleman digital.
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Old 04-20-2018, 07:00 AM   #25
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my residential one cost $25 and $1.62 for a DPDT high low switch.. I used the other $75 for beer....
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Old 04-20-2018, 09:26 AM   #26
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Need help quickly. New thermostat.

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my residential one cost $25 and $1.62 for a DPDT high low switch.. I used the other $75 for beer....


My 2017 28BHBE uses the Coleman 83303862 digital thermostat and it was only $57 on Amazon. Still a few more bucks than your setup however...
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Old 04-20-2018, 11:48 AM   #27
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The ones I have seen converted from residential to use in a rv needed a internal battery to operate.
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Old 04-20-2018, 12:04 PM   #28
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I ordered the Coleman digital MFR# 8330-3862 from PPL RV and it was a wire to wire exact match. However, after installing it in our Eagle HT 28.5 RSTS we found it frequently wanted to reset from our heater temperature setting to the default 72 degrees. I called Coleman and they said it probably was losing 12 volt power that caused the resetting. I monitored the voltage when the furnace turned on and only saw a drop to about 11.7 volts. I had read a post that suggested running a new 12 volt positive wire from the power center to replace the existing wire that comes from the furnace. I found a vacant power center circuit installed a 15 amp fuse and ran a 14 gauge wire to the thermostat. The thermostat works fine now and we are happy campers.
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Old 04-20-2018, 02:52 PM   #29
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my residential one cost $25 and $1.62 for a DPDT high low switch.. I used the other $75 for beer....
You probably spent more than what I spent [$50] for my coleman digital the last time you fueled up your TV. It really doesn't cost more to do it right the first time. I continue to be amazed on what people will try just to save a few bucks and then go out and drop big bucks taking their kids to McD's for a happy meal and a toy.
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Old 04-20-2018, 03:35 PM   #30
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I see both sides of this. Personally, I upgraded to the Coleman digital and of my heap of mods, it still is near the top. Super easy, super effective. BUT the OP was looking for a way to run the furnace and the roof-mount fan at the same time, which I totally understand. Unfortunately there isn't a way to do that with the Coleman product.
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