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Old 06-07-2011, 07:28 PM   #11
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The ball coupler is on the top of the A frame on the 28BHS.
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Old 06-07-2011, 07:56 PM   #12
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Lee,

If my memory is correct(?), I recall that you have the earlier version Reese HP Dual Cam. Which style spring bars do you have on your 2010 28BHS?

Bob
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Old 06-08-2011, 03:18 AM   #13
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Bob, I have the square style trunnion bars. Yeah I have the REALLY early version, about 10 yrs old, with the ubolts.
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Old 06-08-2011, 05:37 AM   #14
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Not that it matters, I agree with the Reese hitch. We just bought our 2011 28BHS and am using my previous WD hitch. It is working fine, but it is the 8000 pound unit. Like I said it is working, but if I had my druthers, I would rather go over than just getting by. I also am using friction style sway bars, and it has to be removed for backing up, which I tend to forget about till I'm accross a road blocking 5 cars or so. I also find the friction sway bars really dont do that much...I think I'm going to look at upgrading, but since I talked my wife into this camper, waiting for the "smoke to clear" before I start spending again.
We too love this floor plan, and agree that the slide does not add that much weight, but makes the unit really roomy. Hope you enjoy it, we've had one trip out so far, and 30.5 feet sure is nice coming from 19.5.
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Old 06-08-2011, 07:12 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ACA6151 View Post
Not that it matters, I agree with the Reese hitch. We just bought our 2011 28BHS and am using my previous WD hitch. It is working fine, but it is the 8000 pound unit. Like I said it is working, but if I had my druthers, I would rather go over than just getting by. I also am using friction style sway bars, and it has to be removed for backing up, which I tend to forget about till I'm accross a road blocking 5 cars or so. I also find the friction sway bars really dont do that much...I think I'm going to look at upgrading, but since I talked my wife into this camper, waiting for the "smoke to clear" before I start spending again.
We too love this floor plan, and agree that the slide does not add that much weight, but makes the unit really roomy. Hope you enjoy it, we've had one trip out so far, and 30.5 feet sure is nice coming from 19.5.
All the best to you

I used to have a friction type sway control. Money was tight after I bought my new TT and I really wanted to upgrade my w/d system. I went to Len-Rich mobile RV and they worked me a deal . They took my 1000lbs bars and gave me a set of gently used 1200lbs bars and installed the cams. The price was cheap and they ensured it was set up properly. Right after that we headed to Disney from NY and I had no more sway.
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Old 06-08-2011, 07:57 AM   #16
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Bob, I have the square style trunnion bars. Yeah I have the REALLY early version, about 10 yrs old, with the ubolts.
Yep, that's the original Reese Dual Cam prior to the "HP" versions.

In case anyone wants to know what the original Reese Dual Cam looked like:



Bob
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Old 06-08-2011, 10:35 AM   #17
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Thanks again for all the feedback guys.

So it seems that I should get the 1200/12000 springs and since as Lee said, the 28BHS has the ball coupler welded to the top of the A-frame instead of the bottom, I should get the round spring bars? Sound correct?
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Old 06-08-2011, 11:27 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle View Post
Yep, that's the original Reese Dual Cam prior to the "HP" versions.

In case anyone wants to know what the original Reese Dual Cam looked like:



Bob
That`s it, including the adapters that bolt on the bars which I also have on mine. I purchased a brand new set just like in the picture for a spare, for 58.00 delivered on Ebay about a yr ago. Some guy had 40 or so sets of them for sale, and they went fast. Just one Cam arm would cost that much or more. So now I have spare parts for the system should I need them.
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Old 06-08-2011, 02:47 PM   #19
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snip........So it seems that I should get the 1200/12000 springs and since as Lee said, the 28BHS has the ball coupler welded to the top of the A-frame instead of the bottom, I should get the round spring bars? Sound correct?
Frank,

As long as Jayco didn't change the coupler mounting for 2011 28BHS, I'd go with the round bars.

The issue that comes into play with top mounted couplers (with the HP Dual Cam) is with the height of the A-frame tube (or channel) with any RV manufacturer's TT, HTT, etc.. As the height increases (ie, 5", 6", etc.) the knuckle on the trunnion style bars can hit the leading edge of the A-frame tube (or channel) in a modest TV turn causing the spring bar to bind. There are work-a-rounds (riser ball, ball mount tilt, etc.), but why deal with them if you don't have to.

I have the trunnion bars but my Jayco coupler is welded to the bottom of the A-frame giving me all sorts of clearances around associated componants...,



Frank, please note that there is a specific way to place the chain hanger bracket over the cam, it has to do with the direction of the small U-bolt threads that hold the chain to the hanger bracket. RV dealers seem to get this wrong most of the time:

On the earlier version (like mine) of the HP DC the U-bolt threads should be facing OUTWARD:



On the latest version of the HP DC the U-bolt threads should be facing INWARD:



If the tech says it doesn't matter, tell him if the brackets are reversed it will create an outward "pull" on the snap-up bracket which opens up a whole new set of problems.

Bob
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Old 06-08-2011, 05:43 PM   #20
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If the 1200 brs prove to be too much, you can always buy 1000lb bars for the Reese. I just went from 1000lb bars to 1200lb bars. I'll make someone a good deal on some 1000lb bars. I'll never have a need for them again.
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