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Old 10-15-2014, 11:36 AM   #1
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Reno
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New Setup. Advice Appreciated!

Hey guys, almost a first time TT owner here (have a 31% off MRSP quote and expect to purchase shortly). Could everyone take a look at my potential setup and let me know if you have any concerns or recommendations. I also have a list of questions at the end. If you could provide feedback, that would be awesome!

TV:
2007 Toyota Tundra 5.7 Crew Max Limited
Tires - LT285/55R20 Toyo Open Country ATII

TV Specs:
Payload Capacity = 1310
Towing Capacity = 10100
GVWR = 7200
GAWR = 4000 (F), 4150 (R)
GCWR = 16000

TT:
2015 Jayco Jayflight 26BHS Fully Loaded (w/ 15k ac) *To be purchased (soon)

TT Specs:
Unloaded Vehicle Weight = 5,470 *assuming ~6,000 with options
Dry Hitch Weight (lbs) = 675 *assuming ~875 w/ TT options, 750lbs cargo and 13% for hitch distrubtion
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating = 7,750

Misc:
Honda EU2000i x2 w/ fuel extender tank
Equal-i-zer WDH - 90-00-1000 (for realistic weights) or 90-00-1200 (for max weights)?
Brake Controller - Tekonsha P3 or Prodigy P2
Roadmaster Active Suspsension Kit Needed?

Questions:
1. Is it safe to tow the trailer for ~50 miles on the highway before putting on the WDH
2. Which Equal-i-zer WDH to get? Any recommended alternatives?
3. Which brake controller? Recommendations on alternatives?
4. Should I get the Roadmaster kit? Any recommeneded alternative?
5. Ill be right at or slightly above payload and GVWR for TV. Any concerns here?
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Old 10-15-2014, 11:46 AM   #2
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looks all good to me.

I would definitely stay with an Equal-i-zer and the 1000 lb bars should be good.

I have the P3 and think it is one of the best and only slightly more cost than the P2, plus it looks way better

You should be fine towing it home without a wdh but on would be better.

I wouldn't be worried about your payload

Good luck
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Old 10-15-2014, 12:07 PM   #3
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I have a Prodigy P2 & P3. Both are great controllers and work well.

I wouldn't tow that camper 50 miles without the WDH. I think I would take the time and the tools and set it up at the dealership.
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Old 10-15-2014, 12:45 PM   #4
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Personally, I would not tow it without a WDH. But what does your owner's manual recommend for that weight trailer and tongue?
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Old 10-15-2014, 01:09 PM   #5
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My 26BHS has a yellow sticker weight of just over 6400 lbs. if that helps you any.
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Old 10-15-2014, 01:12 PM   #6
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I think you'll be happy with either the P2 or P3 controller. I went with the P2 vs. P3 only because that's what the dealer had in stock.

You won't go wrong with either the Equal-i-zer or Reese Dual-Cam WDH. Again, I went Reese because that's what the dealer sold.

Based on my own experience with a Tundra, I wouldn't tow without a WDH - I was against the bump stops when I hitched up to move about 6'. Granted I have a heavier trailer, but I also have almost 300 lbs more payload capacity.

The Roadmaster isn't necessary, but I did install it and it made a world of difference - DW especially is more comfortable, and we all know how important that is
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Old 10-15-2014, 01:12 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDavid View Post
My 26BHS has a yellow sticker weight of just over 6400 lbs. if that helps you any.
1000 lbs over dry weight?

never seen that big of a spread before. Does your have the fibreglass option?
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Old 10-15-2014, 01:13 PM   #8
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You should be good!

#1)As far as towing a short distance without WD, it depends on how much weight is taken off your front wheels. Any lift on the front will reduce your steering control. If it's not too much you should be OK but keep your speeds low. If nothing else it will be a lesson in why a W/D hitch is so important for most setups. why not have the dealer set it up for you? Part of my deal was free labor on swapping my W/D hitch from my old trailer to my new one and adjusting for the truck I had then.

#3) I have the P2 but I bought it long before the P3 came out. It's almost 10 years old now and works perfectly. If I bought a new one today it would be a P3.

#5) The only concern there is how much stress you are putting on the rear axle. If you are right at the limit on this and everything else is still well within specs, I wouldn't worry about it.
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Old 10-15-2014, 01:20 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nbhybrid View Post
1000 lbs over dry weight?

never seen that big of a spread before. Does your have the fibreglass option?
I wondered about that too, then I looked at the complete list of options. It includes things like a porcelain toilet. Given that type of thing I can see how you'd reach this kind of weight in a hurry.
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Old 10-15-2014, 01:25 PM   #10
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Tahoe,
I say this a lot, so why stop now? I'd also suggest a visit to your nearest CAT Scale. The yellow sticker tells you the Rear GAWR is 4150# but you don't know what the weight on the rear axle currently is. Subtract the weights when you are loaded up like you would travel (fuel, people, luggage...) from the Rear GAWR and you will know how much more weight (cargo) you can add to the rear axle. I was surprised to learn with our first TT that although we were well below the max tow rating for the Expedition I was within 200# of maxing the rear axle. The CAT Scale is your friend.
I towed from the storage lot to the house (2 mi) without setting the WD bars (cause I was lazy) and the draw bar scraped a couple of times before I got home, did that only once. The dealer installed and adjusted the WDH as part of our pickup process.
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