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Old 09-14-2016, 05:15 PM   #1
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New to Travel Trailers. Need some feedback...

I own a 2016 F150 XLT with 3.5 EB Crew Cab with the Max Tow package. I also have a tonneau cover on the truck that weighs about 120 pounds. My truck stats are:
GVWR = 7,000
GCWR = 16,900
Max Trailer Weight = 11,500
Max Payload = 2,020
Max GAWR Front = 3,600, Back = 3,800
Base Curb Weight Front = 2,888, Back = 2,037, Total = 4,925
3.55 electronic lock rr axle

I am about to purchase a new 2016 Jayco Jayflight 27RLS. The dryweight is supposed to be 6395, but it is marked 6600 on the trailer with full propane tanks.

My question is whether or not I will have any issues with the truck pulling the trailer. The yellow sticker in my door frame indicates the combined weight of cargo and occupants shoudn't exceed 1722 pounds.

We are supposed to close on the trailer soon. I would love to get feedback from experienced campers.

Thanks.
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Old 09-14-2016, 05:21 PM   #2
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Where did you get the max payload number of 2,020? There is a conflict between that and your yellow sticker.
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Old 09-14-2016, 05:28 PM   #3
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I'm towing a 28BHBE with my F150 with HD Tow. My payload as per my yellow sticker is 2003 pounds. My dry weight is 6540 and I am just about 7700 loaded. I don't have any issues towing using a 12k equalizer wdh setup. Would I like more truck? Sure, but I am OK with my setup for now. When I'm ready to trade my truck, I will be moving up to an F250 or 350 for sure.
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Old 09-14-2016, 05:45 PM   #4
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Welcome and congrats on the possible new rig!!!

As for the 27 RLS being a good match for your truck, we need a little more info:

How much do all the occupants weigh that will be traveling when towing?

Have you added anything else to the truck besides the 120lb tonneau cover?

What do you anticipate carrying in the truck bed when towing, the approximate weight?

A good wdh with integrated sway control can weigh ~100lbs, so figure that in.

The 27 has a "brochure" dry hitch/tongue weight (tw) of 725lbs. If you have 2-20lb propane tanks, it adds ~120lbs to the tw with a battery. If 2-30lb tank and a battery, you add ~160lbs before even loading the trailer with anything else. The front pass through offers a lot of storage, so almost 100% of that weight adds to the tw. So if all the other numbers look good, use caution on what is stored in there.

Add up the family weight, any cargo weight in the bed, the 120lb tonneau cover, 100lbs for the wdh, and say 1000lbs for the tw (estimated), have you exceeded the 1722lbs of payload per the yellow door jamb sticker?

Make sure you get a good wdh with integrated sway control. The Reese Dual Cam, the Reese SC, and the Equal-I-Zer 4 way system are all very good choices. Just make sure if you go with the Dual Cam that the installer knows how to properly install it!!!

Post back with more info.

Good luck!
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Old 09-14-2016, 06:14 PM   #5
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I haven't added anything else to the truck. We will probably have passenger cargo of around 500 pounds. If it's a close call, I don't want to buy the trailer. My concern is going over the 1722 pounds. We probably wouldn't have more than 100 additional pounds packed in the truck.
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Old 09-14-2016, 08:16 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Marcm157 View Post
Where did you get the max payload number of 2,020? There is a conflict between that and your yellow sticker.
I got the 2020 weight from a Ford manual for the 2016 F150. That was the weight for my truck with all of its specs. I suspect the number on the yellow sticker is lower because of the options on the truck. I'm not sure how much the max toe package or other options weigh. I
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Old 09-15-2016, 06:21 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by cbrown320 View Post
I got the 2020 weight from a Ford manual for the 2016 F150. That was the weight for my truck with all of its specs. I suspect the number on the yellow sticker is lower because of the options on the truck. I'm not sure how much the max toe package or other options weigh.
You're correct, any options that add weight will reduce your payload from the max of 2020 for your configuration.

Nice that the newer F150s have more load capacity than the older steel body trucks did. I want to say the sticker on my 2012 with EcoBoost was under 1400 pounds and my truck wasn't loaded with anything (XLT).
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Old 09-15-2016, 06:42 AM   #8
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Dude, the trailer's LOADED weight is far more important than the dry weight. According to Jayco's website, that trailer's GVWR is 8750 pounds. That would include things like propane and all the other stuff we throw into our trailers. Your tongue weight will be 10-15% of that, so call it 13%. That's 1137.5 pounds, which leaves you 584 for payload on the truck, including passengers, cargo, fuel, etc. Sounds like it might be marginal. It might be workable if you don't put much in the trailer - call the tow weight 7000 pounds, now your tongue weight is 910 pounds. You're gonna need a good WDH setup.

Good luck!

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Old 09-15-2016, 06:57 AM   #9
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The hard part is knowing what you will end up packing in the from pass through, and the rest of the trailer..... If you pack like we do, you will exceed the payload of the truck. But if you only have a few bag chairs, awning mat, maybe small grill, plus a small tub for the water hose and 30a extension cord you will probably be ok.

What do you think you will store in the pass through?
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Old 09-15-2016, 07:18 AM   #10
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I'll pretty much echo exactly what Marcm157 said. I tow mine through the rockies. Zero issues really. The only time I get a tad concerned is when I'm on an extended downhill grade that exceeds 10%, I think I'm going to upgrade the brakes all around, next spring... but that isn't really a fault with the towing capacity so much. I don't have the numbers off my yellow sticker handy, but I have a tow rating of 11,000 (It was a couple hundred higher than that but I rounded down) Anyway, I will also be upgrading to a 250 next time... just not sure how long out I'm looking at. I try to tow with mostly empty tanks.. definitely no more than half full. We don't carry a whole lot with us in the pass through area, and most of it is light weight stuff. Just my experience so far..
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Old 09-15-2016, 08:30 AM   #11
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Thanks for the responses so far. I have much to learn and have been reading this and other RV threads to try to learn. At this point, we have delayed buying the trailer.

Does the weight distribution hitch move any of the weight off the truck? I read somewhere that, ideally, the WDH will move about 1/3 of the weight to the axles of the trailer. If so, should I still use all of the tongue weight of the trailer against the payload limit of the truck?

Also, I am pretty sure that the truck could pull the trailer without much of a problem. I am more concerned with the long-term impact of carrying too high a load on the truck.
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Old 09-15-2016, 08:47 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by rkresge View Post
Dude, the trailer's LOADED weight is far more important than the dry weight. According to Jayco's website, that trailer's GVWR is 8750 pounds. That would include things like propane and all the other stuff we throw into our trailers. Your tongue weight will be 10-15% of that, so call it 13%. That's 1137.5 pounds, which leaves you 584 for payload on the truck, including passengers, cargo, fuel, etc. Sounds like it might be marginal. It might be workable if you don't put much in the trailer - call the tow weight 7000 pounds, now your tongue weight is 910 pounds. You're gonna need a good WDH setup.

Good luck!

Roger
X2 on this post. Never ever use the dry weight as a planning number. You will always be closer to the GVWR of the trailer when you are loaded and ready to camp.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cbrown320 View Post

Does the weight distribution hitch move any of the weight off the truck? I read somewhere that, ideally, the WDH will move about 1/3 of the weight to the axles of the trailer. If so, should I still use all of the tongue weight of the trailer against the payload limit of the truck?

Also, I am pretty sure that the truck could pull the trailer without much of a problem. I am more concerned with the long-term impact of carrying too high a load on the truck.
No. The purpose of WD is to take weight off the rear of the truck and shift back to the front wheels to restore steering ability.The full weight of the hitch still needs to be counted. Ford has a spec in your owners manual about how much to bring the front end back down when adjusting the WDH. With GM it has to be brought back to stock fender height. Ford I think is a little more forging in the spec.

The issue isn't power. That drive train will tow the trailer just fine. The issue as you are learning is that the other components are limiting what you can do. A good rule of thumb is to focus your search on trailers that are somewhere between 10% and 20% less than you max towing capacity. Then match the specs of trailers you like.
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Old 09-15-2016, 08:53 AM   #13
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Because a properly setup WDH makes the trailer / TV overall more level, some weight is moved to the rear axles of the trailer that would otherwise be sitting on the tongue. Without the WDH you'll have more sag at the rear of the truck, which usually makes the trailer sag at the tongue, (known as squatting) and as a result, more of the trailers weight ends up on the tongue instead of on it's own rear axles. It's not so much that the WDH moves weight off the truck as it is it's simply preventing excess weight from making it to the tongue of the trailer to begin with... if that makes sense.
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Old 09-15-2016, 09:20 AM   #14
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So what all that boils down to is, yes your truck "Can" pull that trailer.

But, can it safely pull, stop and control that trailer. There you are getting into that "well pretty much, sorta" range.

Are you planning on pulling up and down the mountains? Will you be carrying your own water? Do you like driving with white knuckles? These are all variables you need to decide.

Me personally, I upgraded to a 2500HD because my 1500 was just working too hard yanking the trailer here around the mountains in GA. And there were a couple times I didn't think it would be able to back my trailer up hill into a spot. Remember, it's not just about pulling it down the highway. It's the whole journey!
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Old 09-15-2016, 09:24 AM   #15
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With all of the responses I have received, I am reconsidering what I should buy. Now I am trying to determine how much trailer I could pull with a good WDH that would be safe for my truck over the long haul. The Jayco had a dry weight of 6600 pounds and a max weight of 8750.

I have also looked at a Keystone Passport 2890RL. The dry weight on it is 5500 pounds (7200 loaded). I don't know the tongue weight. With what we would plan to haul, I would expect the loaded trailer weight while towing would be around 6500 pounds max. That would make the tongue weight (at 13%) around 845. Our passengers and other cargo will probably be around 900 pounds (including the storage in the front of the camper). Given our truck has a max for cargo and passengers of 1792, I think we would be OK with that.

Please respond and let me know if I am calculating anything wrong. We look forward to getting a new camper but want to make sure we buy one that fits our truck.

Thanks!
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Old 09-15-2016, 11:51 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by cbrown320 View Post
With all of the responses I have received, I am reconsidering what I should buy. Now I am trying to determine how much trailer I could pull with a good WDH that would be safe for my truck over the long haul. The Jayco had a dry weight of 6600 pounds and a max weight of 8750.

I have also looked at a Keystone Passport 2890RL. The dry weight on it is 5500 pounds (7200 loaded). I don't know the tongue weight. With what we would plan to haul, I would expect the loaded trailer weight while towing would be around 6500 pounds max. That would make the tongue weight (at 13%) around 845. Our passengers and other cargo will probably be around 900 pounds (including the storage in the front of the camper). Given our truck has a max for cargo and passengers of 1792, I think we would be OK with that.

Please respond and let me know if I am calculating anything wrong. We look forward to getting a new camper but want to make sure we buy one that fits our truck.

Thanks!
One last piece of advice from here: Don't do your tow weight planning based on the theoretical towing capacity of the tow vehicle. Instead, do your planning based on the tongue/hitch weight of the trailer and the payload capacity of the tow vehicle.

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Old 09-15-2016, 12:39 PM   #17
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The purpose of WD is to take weight off the rear of the truck and shift back to the front wheels to restore steering ability.The full weight of the hitch still needs to be counted. Ford has a spec in your owners manual about how much to bring the front end back down when adjusting the WDH. With GM it has to be brought back to stock fender height. Ford I think is a little more forging in the spec.
Correct The WD takes no weight off of the truck.
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Old 09-15-2016, 02:30 PM   #18
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Partially true. With a properly setup WDH, some of the tongue weight that would be present without one - is actually transferred to the axles of the trailer, which reduces the tongue weight that the TV has to then support. It doesn't 'remove weight' from the truck, but it does in many situations 'remove' weight from the tongue of the trailer... which in turn puts 'less weight' on the truck itself. Since tongue weight is critical in determining how much you can tow (among other things) without exceeding your cargo capacity, this 'transferring' of weight to the trailers axles is basically the same thing as reducing the load on the truck directly. That's my story and I'm sticking with it
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Old 09-15-2016, 03:29 PM   #19
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If you follow the link in my signature on how a wdh works, that may give a little more info and make it easier to understand.

To sum it up:

TV only: say the fa (front axle) weighs 3000lbs

TV w/ tt hooked up, but without the wd bars latched up: say the fa weighs 2600lbs. So you "lost 400lbs" by hooking the tt up without the wd bars.

TV w/ trailer hooked up and th wd bars latched up: you want the hitch head tilted so that you transfer enough weight back to the fa per you tv owners manual. If it states to restore 100% of the "lost weight", then you want to adjust the wdh head so when the bars are hooked up, the fa weighs 3000lbs again. If it is 50%, then the fa should weigh 2800lbs, 25%- 2700lbs.

When you hook up a trailer and use a wdh, there is some weight that is "transferred" to the tt axles, but the amount is not very much, and it is generally suggested to count the total tw toward the tv payload. The other thing to keep in mind is the tv receiver hitch rating.

I need to weigh our rig again as some things have changed, but here is from the first time I weighed the combo.

Left weights- truck and trailer w/ wd bars hooked up
Middle weights- truck and trailer w/ wd bars unhooked
Right weights- truck only

Top to bottom weights are:
FA
RA
TA
Total weight



You can see that I have restored 100% of the lost weight from the fa. While transferring 540lbs back to the fa, I only transferred 240lbs to the ta. Which with a 1400lb tw, that is not very much weight transferred to the ta.

Hope this helps!!!
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Old 09-15-2016, 07:05 PM   #20
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Thanks for the info. Am I right to assume that, at this point, I should be focused primarily on hitch weight instead of the dry weight of the trailer? There is a sticker under my hitch that indicates the tow trailer capacity is 12,200 and my hitch weight capacity is 1220. However, I know those numbers are meaningless because my primary restriction is the 1722 pound payload limit on the truck. I found a trailer that was 1000 pounds lighter than the Jayco (Open Range 2604RL. When I looked up the hitch weight, it was more than the Jayco. Now I am searching for a rear living unit with a tri-fold sofa with a hitch weight under 650.

Any suggestions?
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