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Old 07-07-2015, 10:36 AM   #11
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That is a good reason to disconnect or remove the fuse for the battery when not plugged into sure power or in storage.
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Old 07-07-2015, 11:02 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by NavyMustang View Post

I guess that an electromagnetic actuator for the brake system makes perfect sense, but I just completely didn't think of that.
Is it electromagnetic? To me it looks like a piece of plastic that interrupts two metal contacts that complete a circuit when the plastic is pulled out. Unless they make them more sophisticated now
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Old 07-07-2015, 11:19 AM   #13
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Is it electromagnetic? To me it looks like a piece of plastic that interrupts two metal contacts that complete a circuit when the plastic is pulled out. Unless they make them more sophisticated now
The brakes are electromagnetic.....not the switch.
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Old 07-07-2015, 11:28 AM   #14
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The brakes are electromagnetic.....not the switch.
Yes, they been used in trailers since at least the 1950's
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Old 07-07-2015, 11:47 AM   #15
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safety cable.

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Originally Posted by NavyMustang View Post
WAIT, WHAT???

Seriously? If the brake actuator is pulled it draws constant power from the 12-volt battery to apply the emergency brakes?

My pin has been pulled since the day I brought it home. I'll have to test this out tonight and report back tomorrow if it solves the problem.
I hope you didn't try to drive it with the pin pulled.

In the future when you hook up to tow, make sure you hook this cable to your truck in a way that is independent of the hitch and safety chains.

I have seen this cable just looped around the hitch ball, or threaded in with one of the chains, or just hooked to one of the chain links.

This switch is your last safety to keep a runaway trailer from injuring others.

The only accident I ever witnessed was 40 years ago. A car and a too-heavy trailer spun 180deg, and rolled 1-1/2 times. The car's bumper, hitch, and rear axle separated and stayed with the trailer. Thankfully, everyone walked away. I have never forgotten and now find a spot on the truck to hook the cable that won't be under stress should the trailer separate.

Tim
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Old 07-07-2015, 11:55 AM   #16
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I hope you didn't try to drive it with the pin pulled.

In the future when you hook up to tow, make sure you hook this cable to your truck in a way that is independent of the hitch and safety chains.

I have seen this cable just looped around the hitch ball, or threaded in with one of the chains, or just hooked to one of the chain links.

This switch is your last safety to keep a runaway trailer from injuring others.

The only accident I ever witnessed was 40 years ago. A car and a too-heavy trailer spun 180deg, and rolled 1-1/2 times. The car's bumper, hitch, and rear axle separated and stayed with the trailer. Thankfully, everyone walked away. I have never forgotten and now find a spot on the truck to hook the cable that won't be under stress should the trailer separate.

Tim
That has bugged me too.

I currently pull the pin and loop the lanyard back on itself through the hole for one of the safety chains. Knowing full well that if the hitch separates from the truck, the lanyard will not be pulled.


What part of the tow vehicle do you suggest to tie to? What do you use to extend the lanyard that came with the switch?

Thanks,
Mike
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Old 07-07-2015, 12:08 PM   #17
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Mike, The original cable style lanyard on ours was way too long, so we got a coiled one from the dealer, put a medium size carabiner on the TV side, and clip it to the hitch right next to the safety chain. The brand is Fastway, and they come in 4' or 6' lengths. that's stretched. I got the 4', and guessed right for a change.
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Old 07-07-2015, 12:20 PM   #18
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I hope you didn't try to drive it with the pin pulled...
Oh heavens no! I know what it is for, just simply didn't realize that a constant 12 volts was applied when the pin was pulled!
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Old 07-07-2015, 12:36 PM   #19
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Your battery may be toast now as well. Or severely down on capacity. They don't like getting totally drained. It will still work for you if you have plug in sites everywhere you go though.
A good charger with equalization stage may get you a fair bit of capacity back though. Not the trailer converter!

Glad you figured out your issue.
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Old 07-07-2015, 12:59 PM   #20
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When I hook up the safety cable, I run over the top of my equalizer bar to ensure that it can not drag or get caught on something.
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