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Old 11-13-2014, 10:33 AM   #11
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I've got the same hitch and never used the bar.
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Old 11-13-2014, 04:35 PM   #12
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Buy it, that's a great price on a equalizer. I bought a new one and that price is great...
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Old 11-13-2014, 05:29 PM   #13
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Thanks again. I am planning to go pick it up tomorrow.

I would also like to say that I am really grateful there is such an active Jayco forum. Our last RV was a Monaco DP and having an active group of forum members was not only helpful, but saved us a lot of money in fixes we were able to do ourselves with forum advice. Glad to be here and looking forward to our new trailer .
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Old 11-13-2014, 05:51 PM   #14
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We ordered our new 27RLS today. This will be our first towable RV, so not real sure on the hitch issue. Tow vehicle is a 2010 Ram 2500 and possibly on rare occasion a 2011 Expedition EL with tow package/air bags. Trailer UVW is 6030 and GVWR is 8600. I am looking at used weight distributing hitches. Is it ok to get one heavier than I need? There is one for sale locally that is rated to 12,000 lbs. It is the Equalizer brand and says 4 point sway.
Looks like the older style L brackets in the picture. I am not really sure if that matters to you or not? If it were me, I would probably call Eqaulizer's tech help line and get the history of why they changed them. Maybe someone else on here could help with that question also?
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Old 01-26-2015, 12:59 PM   #15
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Price is a good price for Equalizer. I just ordered one (12000) and cost me $538. Should get here next week (I hope).
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Old 01-26-2015, 02:54 PM   #16
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I don't know for sure, but I would think it would be pretty hard to "beat up" a hitch. I guess if it were significantly overloaded during use for a long time, that could be a concern. But I don't see any rust on it, and from the pictures, it looks to be in good shape.

I would check out all the nuts and bolts to be sure they're not stripped out or anything. But even that wouldn't be a deal breaker; I would just ask him to knock some $$ off the price and go buy new nuts and bolts, no biggie...
"pretty hard to "beat up" a hitch" ... ouch, not true! We bought similar as in the photo new and had installed for us by the vendor. L-brackets were not torqued-down enough so not many miles later they started shifting; the swing-bar slipped off while towing and damaged the L-brackets requiring replacement as they had bent. Also, you really need the lever-bar to both install/remove swing-bars from the L-bracket ... and make sure the small L-piece goes OVER the swing-bar before installing its safety clip or the bar can pop off. Keep in mind, you are purchasing something that can be a safety liability, so make sure that if it is used - it is in perfect condition.
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Old 01-27-2015, 10:07 PM   #17
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I have the 10,000 lb version. One thing I have noticed with mine...When you're moving slow through a campground it creaks and groans loudly. I asked several people who said absolutely do not grease or oil any part of the hitch.
I was just reading online awhile ago that it's ok the "lightly" oil the bar receiver on the ball end. Both people said it stopped the groaning.
BTW $230 is a great price. I bought mine new from an RV dealer......Grab that one quick
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Old 01-27-2015, 10:41 PM   #18
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I have the 10,000 lb version. One thing I have noticed with mine...When you're moving slow through a campground it creaks and groans loudly. I asked several people who said absolutely do not grease or oil any part of the hitch.
I was just reading online awhile ago that it's ok the "lightly" oil the bar receiver on the ball end. Both people said it stopped the groaning.
BTW $230 is a great price. I bought mine new from an RV dealer......Grab that one quick
From Equal-i-zer web site: "The friction surfaces of the head and sockets should be kept clean and well lubricated with a good quality lubricant. They should be lubricated before each trip."

The 'head and sockets' are the friction parts at the ball-end (head end) of the hitch. Equal-i-zer sells a lube for this. I used a wheel bearing grease and it worked OK for me.

I kept the L-brackets and load bars painted. The coat of paint kept the groans to a minimum, the friction high, and looked nice, too.
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Old 01-27-2015, 11:00 PM   #19
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"pretty hard to "beat up" a hitch" ... ouch, not true! We bought similar as in the photo new and had installed for us by the vendor. L-brackets were not torqued-down enough so not many miles later they started shifting; the swing-bar slipped off while towing and damaged the L-brackets requiring replacement as they had bent. Also, you really need the lever-bar to both install/remove swing-bars from the L-bracket ... and make sure the small L-piece goes OVER the swing-bar before installing its safety clip or the bar can pop off. Keep in mind, you are purchasing something that can be a safety liability, so make sure that if it is used - it is in perfect condition.

Sorry, I should have thrown in the caveat of "when used properly". Anything can be broken, but if installed and used correctly, and with a little upkeep, the chunk of iron that is your hitch is pretty resilient. Even if the brackets get bent, they are easily replaced.
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Old 01-28-2015, 12:17 AM   #20
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... you really need the lever-bar to both install/remove swing-bars from the L-bracket ... .
Not necessarily true. The trick is to lower the hitch onto the ball and lock it in then use the tongue jack to raise trailer tongue and the rear end of the TV enough to let you swing the spring bars onto their perches. Install the spring bar keepers and lower the jack. I'm not talking about picking the rear wheels of the TV off the ground! but raising it 4-6 inches beyond the static load position. This works most of the time although there will be those times when the only way to get the spring bars onto their perches is with the lever-bar.
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