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Old 01-21-2015, 02:04 PM   #11
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I think I found it, the valve between the tank and the pump was valved off (I think). There are two valves, one is vavling off the open ended tube , the other should be to the water tank and it was closed. Here goes another try.
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Old 01-21-2015, 02:08 PM   #12
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in the middle of a snowstorm here, as long as the city water is working, I'll save the FW holding tank test till the weather is a little nicer, or I have to use the tank.
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Old 01-21-2015, 05:45 PM   #13
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I think you found it. That open ended hose is for winterizing the pipes. Turn the tank on and the tube off. There is also a set of bypass valves at the HWH. Be sure its full before use. There is a blow off valve on the HWH that you can use to release any air.
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Old 01-21-2015, 06:01 PM   #14
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Can't help you much but I would make sure that there is no air or vapor locks in you system. turn the hot water off and open the pop off valve slightly and see if there is air in the tank. trapped air can be fooling the water pump pressure. The plastic hose is for winterizing your coach it works very easy.
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Old 01-21-2015, 06:13 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gratefulbruce View Post
I think I found it, the valve between the tank and the pump was valved off (I think). There are two valves, one is vavling off the open ended tube , the other should be to the water tank and it was closed. Here goes another try.
I think you found it too. There should be a valve right before the pump that the empty winterizing tube is connected too. Close that valve [open the line] so water can make it to the pump from the fresh water tank. At the water heater, there are 3 valves, one each on the supply lines and one in the line that connects the two. Open the two supply line valves and close the middle valve. Note; when winterizing, reverse this procedure so you don't fill the water heater with antifreeze. Another note, make absolutely sure the water heater has water in it before turning it on or you can burn it out quickly.
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Old 01-22-2015, 08:50 AM   #16
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Once the pump has filled the hot water heater you still need to purge all the lines of air.. this will result in low flow till it is done.. I bet that by the time you hooked up to the city water the lines were purged which is why it seemed faster. Mind you an RV pump will never be as fast as city water. I hope you have a pressure check valve on the city tap so you don't over pressure your RV pipes.
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Old 01-22-2015, 09:17 AM   #17
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Thanks for the replies, I'm hoping the city water does not freeze up again, but if it does, I'm pretty sure I have the FW holding tank/water pump method working also. As for a regulator on the incoming water, I do not have one yet, but have it on my list to get at the hardware store.
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Old 01-22-2015, 02:02 PM   #18
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Bruce, another way to purge air from your system is to open the nearest faucet [hot side] in relation to the water heater. Open the faucet, turn the pump on and as it fills the heater [this will take a few minutes] it will spit a lot, and run it until you have a steady stream of water coming out of the faucet. Once you have a steady stream coming out, close it and the pump should stop. Go and open the bathroom faucet/shower. It will spit a little and then run steady. This also ensures that the water heater is full. After that, you should be good to go. I also do this when I'm connecting to city water. Camco sells a good pressure regulator rated to 50psi available at wallyworld. BTW, thanks for the "Thank you".
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Old 01-22-2015, 06:38 PM   #19
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Nice use of the forum solving this one everybody!
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