newbie holding tank supply question

gratefulbruce · 01-13-2015, 10:34 AM

I just took delivery of a new Eagle 338RETS and am currently living in it. My original plan was to fill the FW holding tank and use the inboard pump and supply tank until the weather warmed enough to hook up my FW hose. I filled the tank 2/3 full, then started the pump to pressurize the system. The pump ran for an inordinate amount of time (my conception) and eventually stopped, I opened a valve on the sink and the flow was very slow and continued slowing. I hooked up the hose to the city water, turned the pump off and there was no problem, I ultimately bought a heat traced hose and hooked up the city water, but am wondering what am I doing wrong with the FW holding system? Are there valves to turn to use one system versus the other? I see a section in my manual about a utility center "if so equipped", I could not find one of these, but this sound like it could be my issue. Grasping at straws, looking for experience/help.

dewey02 · 01-13-2015, 11:25 AM

It is not unusual for the FW pump to run for a long time when you first fill with water and turn it on. If your water heater was not previously filled, the pump has to put about 6 gallons of water into the water heater tank before it completely pressurizes the system and shuts itself off.

I don't know the reason that your kitchen sink was slow. Did you also try the bathroom sink, shower, and outdoor shower? Were all of them slow? Has the trailer been sitting in freezing temperatures before you took ownership, powered it up with heat and water? It could be you have some nearly frozen pipes somewhere along the line. Keep your cabinet doors open wherever you can see water pipes running along their back side. Also, check your flexible hoses before and after the water pump. Most of the plumbing is hard plastic, but usually the hoses leading to and immediately away from the pump are flexible plastic. Any kinks there? Remove the filter (located just adjacent to the pump) and rinse it out, perhaps it has particles in it from when the trailer was first put together.

That's all the advice I have.

Tunce the traveler · 01-13-2015, 11:42 AM

[QUOTE=dewey02;261468]It is not unusual for the FW pump to run for a long time when you first fill with water and turn it on. If your water heater was not previously filled, the pump has to put about 6 gallons of water into the water heater tank before it completely pressurizes the system and shuts itself off.

I don't know the reason that your kitchen sink was slow. Did you also try the bathroom sink, shower, and outdoor shower?

I'm with you, think it was trying to fill the water heater first and that flow is not restricted like the kitchen faucet is.

RoyBraddy · 01-13-2015, 12:12 PM

I am wanting to install four each T-1275 150AH batteries to replace my four each Interstate 85AH batteries on my trailer tongue.

I am going to do it in two split up battery banks. One on the trailer tongue and the other one in the back of my F150 truck bed.

I have two uses for having battery banks in support of my Emergency Two Way radios installed in the truck and the POPUP trailer.

I will be able to combine these two 300AH battery banks with BLUE SEA four position switches when in camping mod...

The T-1275 battery weighs about 82 lbs each. My Interstate 85AHs batteries weigh only 62 lbs each.

I will be installing the two 150AH batteries in one of those 48-inch truck side mount metal enclosure with locking lid which weighs 45 lbs I think... The remaining space in the box will be for outside tools etc..

I will use a different metal box in the back of the truck...

The truck side will use a 2-cond large cable pair connector plug and socket with lid installed next to the 7-way trailer connector to interconnect the two battery banks...
POLLAK 12800/PK12801 combo

Roy Ken

RoyBraddy · 01-13-2015, 04:10 PM

Somehow I posted this on the wrong thread haha,,, Oh well...

Roy Ken

dewey02 · 01-13-2015, 06:39 PM

That's OK Roy. Once gratefulbruce gets his water running, he can work on that battery box mod!

Imnaha.Mansion · 01-14-2015, 05:40 AM

You can buy plugs used for electric trolling motors to connect a remote battery bank. I 'm going to install a couple plugs for my waste pump. Since the stock power leads are way to short.

gratefulbruce · 01-21-2015, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gratefulbruce

I just took delivery of a new Eagle 338RETS and am currently living in it. My original plan was to fill the FW holding tank and use the inboard pump and supply tank until the weather warmed enough to hook up my FW hose. I filled the tank 2/3 full, then started the pump to pressurize the system. The pump ran for an inordinate amount of time (my conception) and eventually stopped, I opened a valve on the sink and the flow was very slow and continued slowing. I hooked up the hose to the city water, turned the pump off and there was no problem, I ultimately bought a heat traced hose and hooked up the city water, but am wondering what am I doing wrong with the FW holding system? Are there valves to turn to use one system versus the other? I see a section in my manual about a utility center "if so equipped", I could not find one of these, but this sound like it could be my issue. Grasping at straws, looking for experience/help.

Okay, so today it seems the $100 hose with a heater has apparently stopped working, so I disconnected it and tried again to run off the FW holding tank and water pump ... it still will not work even though the tank is showing at 2/3 full? Is there valving to be opened/closed? I'm really at an impass and could use some things to check, I'm not even sure where the water pump is, and if I can access it? HELP

Dirkdaddy · 01-21-2015, 12:53 PM

You'll have to open cabinet and look at the pump hoses, are they frozen? water in them? Do you get no water, or just one of hot/cold? open all the faucets and run it, should run and make noises - I just did this after draining for a cold snap here in Tex so I know it took a while to get the system with water in it again.

I'm betting you have pressure somewhere so its not turning the pump on (it only runs on demand when pressure drops). Maybe a frozen line? If you're in TEX as it says, I'd guess its not too terribly cold 24 hours a day.

gratefulbruce · 01-21-2015, 01:59 PM

The pump runs, the system works when connected to city water. When I disconnect the city water connection and turn the water pump on, the pump runs for a bit (building pressure), when it stops running I open the faucets, hot and cold, and it acts like its valved off somewhere, no flow, or a little flow but no pressure, and decreasing flow, the pump does not start again. I wish I had a piping diagram for this beast. I opened up under the cabinet and saw the pump, but it's such a rats nest of tubes/wires it's not easy to reconnoiter. I did see a couple of valves which looked like they were connected a tube probably for drawing antifreeze into the system (open ended tube).

gratefulbruce · 01-21-2015, 02:04 PM

I think I found it, the valve between the tank and the pump was valved off (I think). There are two valves, one is vavling off the open ended tube , the other should be to the water tank and it was closed. Here goes another try.

gratefulbruce · 01-21-2015, 02:08 PM

in the middle of a snowstorm here, as long as the city water is working, I'll save the FW holding tank test till the weather is a little nicer, or I have to use the tank.

JayTripperS · 01-21-2015, 05:45 PM

I think you found it. That open ended hose is for winterizing the pipes. Turn the tank on and the tube off. There is also a set of bypass valves at the HWH. Be sure its full before use. There is a blow off valve on the HWH that you can use to release any air.

ninjahbob · 01-21-2015, 06:01 PM

Can't help you much but I would make sure that there is no air or vapor locks in you system. turn the hot water off and open the pop off valve slightly and see if there is air in the tank. trapped air can be fooling the water pump pressure. The plastic hose is for winterizing your coach it works very easy.

TCNashville · 01-21-2015, 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gratefulbruce

I think I found it, the valve between the tank and the pump was valved off (I think). There are two valves, one is vavling off the open ended tube , the other should be to the water tank and it was closed. Here goes another try.

I think you found it too. There should be a valve right before the pump that the empty winterizing tube is connected too. Close that valve [open the line] so water can make it to the pump from the fresh water tank. At the water heater, there are 3 valves, one each on the supply lines and one in the line that connects the two. Open the two supply line valves and close the middle valve. Note; when winterizing, reverse this procedure so you don't fill the water heater with antifreeze. Another note, make absolutely sure the water heater has water in it before turning it on or you can burn it out quickly.

Seann45 · 01-22-2015, 08:50 AM

Once the pump has filled the hot water heater you still need to purge all the lines of air.. this will result in low flow till it is done.. I bet that by the time you hooked up to the city water the lines were purged which is why it seemed faster. Mind you an RV pump will never be as fast as city water. I hope you have a pressure check valve on the city tap so you don't over pressure your RV pipes.

gratefulbruce · 01-22-2015, 09:17 AM

Thanks for the replies, I'm hoping the city water does not freeze up again, but if it does, I'm pretty sure I have the FW holding tank/water pump method working also. As for a regulator on the incoming water, I do not have one yet, but have it on my list to get at the hardware store.

TCNashville · 01-22-2015, 02:02 PM

Bruce, another way to purge air from your system is to open the nearest faucet [hot side] in relation to the water heater. Open the faucet, turn the pump on and as it fills the heater [this will take a few minutes] it will spit a lot, and run it until you have a steady stream of water coming out of the faucet. Once you have a steady stream coming out, close it and the pump should stop. Go and open the bathroom faucet/shower. It will spit a little and then run steady. This also ensures that the water heater is full. After that, you should be good to go. I also do this when I'm connecting to city water. Camco sells a good pressure regulator rated to 50psi available at wallyworld. BTW, thanks for the "Thank you".

SecretCoveDave · 01-22-2015, 06:38 PM

Nice use of the forum solving this one everybody!

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