Newbie needs help with refrigerator question

[gilgrc]

Okay here we go! I’m new TT owner and we’re doing our first trip.

When we arrived at our destination and after setting up TT, I turned on NorCold refrigerator (propane usage) after while the temperature went down to 35 degrees and -12 degrees (freezer) on empty refrigerator. Once I stocked up the refrigerator I noticed the temperature was not as cold as when empty. I checked the temperature and it was 53 degrees and 8 degrees (freezer). Some of the food and milk went bad, so I decided to go electric usage at that point.

The temperature was going down very, very slow! After few hours the temperature was at 36 degrees on the upper level of the fridge and 48 degrees on lower level and -6 degrees (freezer).

I thought I’m okay; however, now I’m noticing that the temperature is going up again. I just checked and the temperature is 48 degrees upper level, 58 degrees lower level and 5 degrees (freezer).

What’s going on? Is this normal? I went back to propane usage and is doing the same. Temperature goes down and then it goes up.

I’m having the same problem with propane and electric usage

Please advise! Your feedback will be greatly appreciated

Thanks

[nighthawk87]

Some seem to have luck with a small computer fan


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[gilgrc]

Something is not right. Just checked temperature and is even higher. Food will go bad again. This is frustrating!!

61 degrees
23 degrees freezer

[Robbbyr]

Perhaps a silly question, but is your unit level? Has it ever been operated (parked) for any length of time when significantly out of level? Prolonged out of level operation can cause serious cooling unit damage. Not a big concern when driving with the unit turned on since the motion keeps things moving around internally. But parked it needs to be within level specifications.

[gilgrc]

Yes is leveled

[THE MEEKER]

First, an RV refrigerator is not like your home's refrigerator. It is an absorption refrigerator. (Google it.). Normally, it will take about 8 hours for your RV fridge to cool down from starting. Before you turn on an RV refrigerator, ensure the rig is level within a few degrees both side to side and front to back. RV refrigerators depend on gravity to work properly, and can be severely damaged if operated off level. Always pre-cool the refrigerator overnight before putting food in it. You want to make sure you're not trying to cool the food and the cool refrigerator at the same time. Keep the refrigerator door closed as much as possible. It has been said that each minute the door is open; it takes an hour to regain the cold temperature.

[RogerR]

Mine does not cool very well unless I have a fan going to push the cooling off the fins and mix it in the air.

I have a 2 D cell fan but intend to upgrade to a 12 volt computer fan when I can get to it next spring.

Do some searches on refrigerator problems.

Mine cools much better on propane. The fridge is a heat engine and propane is hotter.

Check your outside intake and coils - any blockages, wasps, etc.?

[Robbbyr]

I have a large Norcold and this has helped even out my temps greatly: https://smartrvproducts.com/ . It also helps it cool down initially faster. Plus I have cooling fans out in the cooling unit to help there when it is hot outside.

What is your outside temperature now?

[gilgrc]

Originally Posted by Robbbyr

I have a large Norcold and this has helped even out my temps greatly: https://smartrvproducts.com/ . It also helps it cool down initially faster. Plus I have cooling fans out in the cooling unit to help there when it is hot outside.

What is your outside temperature now?

Morning is around 65 degrees, afternoons 80 degrees and evening is about 65 degrees

[CharlesOK]

Your first problem is waiting to get to the campground to turn on the reefer. Day before, turn on with propane while level. I often freeze water and add it to the fridge to help get it cold. I re-cool everything I add to the fridge on departure day. Load it quickly and leave it on while we travel. No warm beer, only cold stuff. leave it closed as much as possible. every time you open the door, all the cold air spills out on the floor. I freeze water bottles and stick them in the door pockets. In your pictures, there is almost nothing in there. You need cold mass in there to help the whole process. You will learn not to peek in there. Know what you want, open quickly, grab it out and get the door shut as quickly as possible. you will learn.

[hoppers4]

Besides what's mentioned above, the fridge goes into auto defrost every 49 hours. That means the fridge shuts off for about 2 hours in order to melt any frost on the fins in the rear of the fridge. I turn my fridge off every morning just to prevent this auto defrost. Like Robbbyr said, I also use a SmartRVProducts cooling fan in the back of the fridge.

These fridges are nothing like a home, compressor operated fridge. They just don't cool near as good. You might consider getting a wireless thermometer to monitor the fridge and freezer so you don't have to keep opening the door to check the temp. This is the one I use. https://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-00986.../dp/B004QJVU78

[Robbbyr]

Originally Posted by gilgrc

Morning is around 65 degrees, afternoons 80 degrees and evening is about 65 degrees

Certainly within a "reasonable" temperature range; too cold outside and they don't work well and the same when you have extremely hot ambient temps. So temperature extremes are not any probable cause here.

Just trying to check off the potentials!

[Rustic Eagle]

Keep in mind the RV frig cools the freezer compartment first, the main compartment follows.

I've found keeping the freezer as full as possible with frozen contents the main compartment cools more efficiently. Depending on frozen food requirements, I use bags of ice in the freezer to fill open spaces.

Bob

[Siamese]

Sounds like a lot of good RV fridge advice here.

The only thing I can add, that I don't think has been mentioned, is to avoid putting warm stuff in the fridge. If you buy a couple six packs of Coke, don't put them all in if they're at room temp. We put in about three at a time, and when we grab one, we have a warm one in hand to replace it.

Oh, and packing so much in the fridge that the air can't circulate can be a problem. Even if you have a modest amount of stuff in there, arrange it so the air can get around.

My wife is having a little trouble comprehending that the fridge isn't a spectator sport. As has been mentioned already, know what you want. Grab it and shut the door.

All this advice makes an RV fridge sound like a finicky thing. Our experience has been that by getting used to a few quirks, our fridge serves us much the same as our fridge at home does.

[CampNow]

Lot of good advice so far.

However, based on your various descriptions, I'd say your frig is simply not working properly. Yes, you should take some precautions to "help" your frig cool more quickly, but if the problem doesn't correct itself after 12-24 hours, then IMO, you have a problem that goes beyond the placement of food, air circulators, and such.

First, before we make any critical decisions about our RV frig, we use a standard glass, mercury thermometer to confirm temps in various parts of the frig. We've had this thermometer for 20 years and we know it to be extremely accurate. We can't say the same for various infrared and digital thermometers we've used.

In any case, we had similar cooling problems as the ones you're encountering with a frig in a previous travel trailer. I read the installation instructions and noticed there are specific clearance requirements for the baffles surrounding the rear boiler tubes. On many units, there should less than an inch clearance between the rear boiler tubes and the rear wall or baffle. It would seem more clearance is better, but that's not always the case. This trailer had almost 4" of clearance. Following the manufacturer's specs, we installed a well insulated baffle (about 2' x 4' in size) about an 1/2 inch away from the rear tubes, along with two 12 vdc cooling fans. It immediately corrected the problem.

Our last two trailers have had the same 8 cu. ft. N8xx Norcold frig. We've been able to maintain 40 degrees or less with ambient temps as high as 110 degrees---35 degrees or less with ambient temps less than than 85-90 degrees. Of course, to maintain these temps, we keep door openings to an absolute minimum. For us, that's a small price to pay to keep our food from spoiling.

Maybe I missed it, but is your trailer/frig new? Although you stated your frig is level, it is possible the previous owner did not operate this frig under level conditions, causing excessive boiler temps and subsequent damage. If that's the case, the only solution is to replace the boiler tubes (at approx. 50% of the price of a new frig), or purchase a new frig.

Lastly, we opted to install an ARP unit (see www.arprv.com) in our new Jayco. We sometimes travel in very mountainous areas. Sometimes it's almost impossible to keep the trailer level. Before we installed the ARP unit we used to turn the frig off temporarily when we were off-level. But, sometimes we forgot. When you do forget, the damage (from excessively high boiler temps) becomes cumulative. After a number of these off-level episodes, you will start to see a noticeable, permanent decline in your frig's cooling performance. Long story short, the ARP unit automatically turns the frig off before boiler temps damage the frig under these types of off-level conditions. It's one less thing to worry about at those scenic rest spots

[hoppers4]

Originally Posted by Siamese

My wife is having a little trouble comprehending that the fridge isn't a spectator sport.

That's just too funny. I've got a new sign for the fridge as my SIL is clueless.

[Atlee]

Overlooked by many, it seems, is the fridge does cool down like it's supposed to initally, but then warms back up. This says to me, it's not functioning properly. If you (like me) don't have the skills to sort it out, you'll need to take it to a Norcold tech to sort it out.

And level only matters when it's parked. Does matter when it's underway. All the moving and shaking going on when underway will make sure no tubes are plugged.

[33 RLDS]

I would also invest in a wireless pair of fridge thermometers. Not sure if the laser pointer is an ideal method for accurate temps. The are relatively cheap and you can look at a the freezer and fridge temps without opening either.

This is the one we use:
https://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-00986...meter+wireless

[Brownie]

My refer went out about 2 years ago - 2 months after the warranty expired. The mobile RV service I selected said he gets refer repair calls on brand new rigs coming out of the factory. It's the result of the refer mfrs. using cheap coils made in China that have faulty welds on the coils. That could be your case. Two things you might look for: #1 Think back for a minute - has your CO detector gone off lately? It will if the coils have gone bad and leaked ammonia gas into your rig. #2 - Open the bottom refrigerator vent on the outside of your rig. Is there a fine yellow dust-like powder on the horizontal surfaces behind the frig? Ammonia leaves that dust behind when it evaporates. That's another indication that you have a leak in the cooling coil. The refer can't cool without ammonia.

One last thing. The ammonia/water solution in the coils will freeze if the outside temps are below 18 degrees. Mine did that last Thanksgiving, and I thought my coils had gone bad again. But, when the temps warmed back up, it started working again. Have you been camping in very cold outside conditions?

Your profile doesn't show what rig you have or its age, but you may want to have your service provider take a look at it. Best of luck!

[2nOZ]

Originally Posted by 33 RLDS

I would also invest in a wireless pair of fridge thermometers. Not sure if the laser pointer is an ideal method for accurate temps. The are relatively cheap and you can look at a the freezer and fridge temps without opening either.

This is the one we use:
https://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-00986...meter+wireless

X2. These work very well.