Newbie questions

[tmsbandman]

Hi all. New to the forum, and new to trailer camping. I recently bought a 1992 300BH. Our first outing is next week, and I have some questions.

1-
I've heard about rubber roofs and aluminum. Which is mine? I went up to clean it, and it is definitely not softand "rubbery",but it doesn't seem like just paint either. What is the purpose of a rubber roof, anyway?

2-
I know I should minimize the amount of "stuff" in the trailer to help with weight. The unloaded trailer (when I towed it home) added 5500 lbs (Truck alone was 5700 lbs, truck/trailer was 11,200.) According to the Ford towing info, my truck can tow up to 8500 lbs. I'll be driving 3 other people, tools, blocks etc in the truck. And-I'm 100lbs over Ford's estimate of a 150 lb driver :-). My extra 100, plus my wife, 2 kids, blocks, tools, etc. will add (generous estimate) about 600. That seems to leave plenty of room (literally a ton) for food, linens, etc in the trailer. Am I missing something? It's not that I intend to stuff if to capacity, but it seems like I don't have to skimp. I have not calculated fresh water, or gray/black tanks. IF I had to travel with full fresh water (I don't this time) how much weight does that add?

3-
I'm guessing I need to make a concerted effort to balance the load. Seems like things stored under the master bed would offset weight in the back closet and the black tank. The kitchen area is near the axles. Any advice?

Any other suggestions for a novice are appreciated.

[Doug]

The rubber roofs and membrane roofs don't usually feel soft and rubbery.
Rubber/Membrane roofs are easy to install and last a good 10 years.

You'll want to look at your TV GVRW to see how much your truck can weigh, This will probably be the limiting factor for you.
This includes passengers, fuel, cargo and Tongue Weight of TT. See Sticky Thread on Towing Weights and CAT scale procedures.

You'll need to load out your rig and take it through the CAT scale procedure. This will tell you the weight of each component that you need to know.
You'll be shooting for a tongue weight of 12-15% of the TT weight.
The scale readings is the best way to make sure you have your WDH set up correctly too.

I just went through the CAT scale for the 1st time recently. It's about $16 total for 3 different weighs and takes maybe 30 minutes.

You might want to post your TV make/model/specs, you TT make/model specs. Include your individual axel ratings and what WDH your using.

Congratulations on your new rig.

Best regards,
Doug

[tmsbandman]

Thanks, Doug. I had not thought about the GVWR being the limiter, but that makes total sense.
Hitch is an Equal-i-zer. My TV is a 2004 F150 SuperCrew. The GVWR is 7050 (max of 3450 Front, 3850 rear). My truck with just me, and a few items was 3380 front and 2840 rear. I can assume that the extra weight IN the TV will distribute slight more toward the rear, and see how much room I have to stay in the 12-15% range of TT for tongue weight. 12% of 5500 gives me a starting tongue weight of 660 lbs. I should be able to estimate as I add cargo. Would the TT have a GVWR on the sticker?

Thanks,
Rick

[Doug]

Yes,
The TT will have a GVWR as well.
So you'll want to calculate how much your TV weight is adding the tongue weight.
Then you'll know what you have left for cargo and passengers etc.
I like to stay within about 75% of TV rating, I like to be a little conservative.
Seems like anytime you push the limits, the towing experience gets a little dicey.
If you stay local, then you can get away with being less conservative.

Kind regards,
Doug

[tmsbandman]

Excellent. Thanks. I will look at the sticker on the TT when I get home tonight. And I agree. I don't want to test the limits of GVWR :-) But....GVWR will only give me the max weight, not curb weight. I guess I already know it from the weights I listed in the OP, although I had a ful take on the second weight, and only a half the first time. That's about 180 pounds if I remember right.
Rick

[tmsbandman]

Got it. TT says 6765 GVWR. That gives me numbers to crunch.....tomorrow :-)

[tmsbandman]

OK. If the GVWR of the TT is 6765
Based on that, and the TT weighing 5500 lbs unloaded"
1) 12% of TT's GVWR is 812lbs, which is my MAX tongue weight
2) 6765-5500 leaves me a maximum cargo/water load of 1265 lbs, which should be no problem.
3) staying within the 75% threshold I still have 949 lbs capacity. Surely we don't have THAT much stuff that needs to go.
4) How big is my fresh water tank? 8.34 x 20 gallons (liberal estimate) would add 167 lbs, which should still be no problem.

Am I thinking correctly on this?

Once I get on the road, I need to check weight. Before, I just weight the empty truck, then the TV/TT combo. Are you saying to weigh 1)only the TV 2)only the TT, and then the whole thing?
If so, what do you find the best order? Sounds like I have to drop the trailer twice either way (once on the scale and once in the lot).

Thanks so much. I think I'm getting it.

Another question altogether: If I hook up to water at a CG, am I totally bypassing my fresh water tank? How do I do switch between the two?

Rick

[Doug]

Here's a good thread on doing a CAT scale weigh.
http://www.jaycoowners.com/showthrea...igh-Your-tt-tv

I just do the sequence a little different.
1. TV/TT loaded with passengers, fuel, cargo and WDH engaged
2. Pull off the scale, disengage WDH spring bars, put them in rear of TV and pull TV/TT back onto scales
3. Pull off scales, chalk TT and pull TV back onto scale for wt. #3

The city water connection should bypass your holding tank.
You can use your low point drain to dump holding tank before connecting to city water or use the pump to pump it out.
My holding tank has a valve that has to be open to drain and pump. I think it has a one way valve, but just close it once you dump holding tank and then connect city water.
Best to put a pressure regulator on the water supply before connecting hose.

Best regards,
Doug

[clubhouse]

Rustic Eagle has a great sticky thread on how to properly weigh
You TV/TT combo. It requires 3 passes on the scales but gives you all the information you need to confirm weights are in spec and to adjust your WD hitch.

As for FW tank vs City water connection. Yes City water bypasses the FW tank and the system is pressurized from the city connection. The FW tank is used by turning on your water pump should pressurized the water system. To switch between, dissconnect city water, make sure tank is full, then turn on water pump. The pump works on demand, meaning it comes on when you open a tap/shower to get water. Hope this is the information you are looking for.

[tmsbandman]

Thanks. I'll look for the sticky. That is exactly the info on water that I needed. So-if I don't turn on the pump, the water will come from the connection, and if I turn it on it comes from the tank? Also-I did not buy a regulator, but it sounds like I need one.

Thanks,
Rick

[Doug]

Yep, pressure regulator recommended to protect your plumbing from high pressure.
I like the brass one, Home Depot or Amazon. Should be $5-$8.

Best regards,
Doug

[cekkk]

You might be inclined to open your black water holding tank while in an RV park with sewer. That's not a good idea. Keep that valve closed until nearly full or time to leave. Expect your black water tank gauge to show full all the time. Most of them get gummed up. It's okay to leave the grey water valve open, but close it a day before you plan to dump your black tank so you accumulate some grey water in order to flush the hose out after you dump your black water. And make absolutely sure you have water in your water heater tank Before you turn it on.

[tmsbandman]

Ooh. Great advice. Thanks. I kind of wondered how to clean the hose after emptying black. Separate questions:

1) I hooked up today and have a blown bulb in tail light. Replaced it, no problem....then left turn signal caused flashers to start. Figured out that the two blades (for the 1157)were touching. I went to fix that and one broke loose from the plastic housing. I think I got it back in/on where it would work, but now I get NO lights on the back of TT. Checked fuses at panel (under refrigerator in mine) but all look good. Are there fuses somewhere else? Is there a separate fuse for the tail/brake light send on the 7 pin in my F150?

2) replaced the bulb in the light ont he front of TT by the tongue, but it still doesn't work. The switch on it could be bad, but is there a switch inside TT that supplies power to that light?

3) one more-if I insert my Equal-i-zer all the way in it will reach to the 2nd hole on my hitch. Better to push it all the way in, or stop at the first hole? Seems like the 2nd would be stronger, but it does draw the TT a few inches closer to the truck.

Thanks,
Rick