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Old 07-04-2020, 04:35 PM   #1
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no 12 volt, good battery

My battery tests 12.56 volts. I have checked the the connections, the 12 volt self resetting breaker on the tongue, all wiring to the converter. No power gets from the battery to the inside. Replaced the 40 amp main fuse. Turned on the 120 volt AC to see if battery would charge. Inside 12 volts work off of converter.

I pulled out the wifco unit and found the 12 volt battery connection. 0 volts!
Went back up front and tested all the connections in the connection box. Appears 12 volts up to connection to the main line back to the Wifco converter box. traced the line, no faults, damage or connections in between. With 120 AC on there is 13.56 volts coming back to a junction but not to the battery
as said, on battery only, no 12 volt inside.
checked all the twist off wire nuts and all clean and good connections.


So what do I do next?? I am baffled as to why battery won't supply or be recharged.
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Old 07-04-2020, 04:39 PM   #2
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Did you just replace the battery? If so did you hook it up backwards?
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Old 07-04-2020, 04:43 PM   #3
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Double checked that first and then again a couple times as frustration grew. Wires still have positive and negative markers on them. Also, tests positive at the 20 amp breaker on the tongue on both sides. Just can't seem to get the connection working up to the converter. Converter is providing 13.5 v to the wire out to the junction box by the tongue. Worked before for two years of trips.
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Old 07-04-2020, 04:45 PM   #4
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Check the ground connection on the frame
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Old 07-04-2020, 04:49 PM   #5
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X2 on checking the grounds, also check the two reverse-polarity fuses in the converter.
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Old 07-04-2020, 05:15 PM   #6
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Checked and ground to frame good at tongue junction box and pulled an cleaned one under Wifco converter through floor to frame. Note, when converter on 120AC all lights, fans, pump and CO/propane monitor work. On battery only, noting works, No power to converter junction from battery.



I am considering putting a jumper from one wire in the front junction box that tests at 13.6 when converter is running over to battery via 20 amp breaker. There should be a connection there already and used to be but now it has gone away and I can't find the reason. Any reason not to??
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Old 07-04-2020, 08:46 PM   #7
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Quote:
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Checked and ground to frame good at tongue junction box and pulled an cleaned one under Wifco converter through floor to frame. Note, when converter on 120AC all lights, fans, pump and CO/propane monitor work. On battery only, noting works, No power to converter junction from battery.



I am considering putting a jumper from one wire in the front junction box that tests at 13.6 when converter is running over to battery via 20 amp breaker. There should be a connection there already and used to be but now it has gone away and I can't find the reason. Any reason not to??
Power does not flow from the battery to the converter. Converter powers the 12 volt side of the fuse panel and charges the battery. Convert is fed from the 120 volt breaker box on a 15 amp breaker. Disconnect the battery and check the voltage and check the output of the converter
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Old 07-05-2020, 06:31 AM   #8
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My battery tests 12.56 volts. I have checked the the connections, the 12 volt self resetting breaker on the tongue, all wiring to the converter.
It is possible that your self resetting breaker isn't resetting. Can you check continuity across the breaker with your battery and internal power off with an Ohmmeter?
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Old 07-05-2020, 09:51 AM   #9
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I'm not familiar with this trailer, but a 20 amp on the tongue and a 40 amp in the fuse box seem out of wack.

Anyway, pull the reset breaker and with a multimeter set on Ohms or on beep for continuity; check for continuity between the pins. If none, press the reset if manual and recheck. Bad reads = replace.
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Old 07-05-2020, 10:20 AM   #10
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I can see 12.6 volts on both posts of the breaker. As a test I shorted across the breaker and did not see any changes. This is driving me nuts as we were to leave Tuesday for a trip to the Rockies to meet relatives.

I am going to buy a new breaker anyway just in case. I rechecked and both my negative an positive leads to the battery are clearly factory labeled neg and pos and are properly connected. I would assume an improper connection would blow the inside reverse polarity fuse.


One of the posts above mention that the wiring from the converter to the battery. I checked the wiring diagram and the output/input line to the tongue is the same and runs through the converter internal wiring.
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Old 07-06-2020, 02:04 PM   #11
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Same Issue

I am having the same issue on my 2019 212 QB and am currently working on trying to fix it.

Thus far I have heard it could be a bad power converter, a issue with the manufacturer wiring, or a ground.
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Old 07-08-2020, 09:17 AM   #12
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take out the battery and have it load tested... I know because it has happened to me...
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Old 07-08-2020, 10:02 AM   #13
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Did you check the inline fuse near the front curbside corner of the trailer?
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Old 07-08-2020, 10:17 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by muckinfuss View Post
I'm not familiar with this trailer, but a 20 amp on the tongue and a 40 amp in the fuse box seem out of wack.

Anyway, pull the reset breaker and with a multimeter set on Ohms or on beep for continuity; check for continuity between the pins. If none, press the reset if manual and recheck. Bad reads = replace.
Usually there is a 30 amp fuse at both ends.

Pull the self reset fuse and try an old fashion spade fuse.
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