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Old 08-26-2020, 04:57 AM   #1
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No Heat

good day all,

I don't have any heat in my trailer and hoping someone could give some ideas on warming up.

Ive got a 2015 jayco 267 bhsw. Im plugged into electricity and i have propane on. Propanes working because ive checked the stove and i get fire.

I checked the thermostat on the wall, turned it all the way up .and i believe the switch on the bottom of it turned it just a click to the right. I turn the fan control on the ceiling to low fan and the temperature knob on that to as warm as the dial can go. Nothings happening except cold blowing air. I also checked and changed the 20amp furnace fuse for good measure but still cold blowing air.

Am i missing something? Heres the thermostat on the wall. And i can hear my hot water heater flame just kick in now to so propane is running.
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Old 08-26-2020, 05:22 AM   #2
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First things first: Have you gone outside to listen to your furnace? You should hear it running if it’s working.
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Old 08-26-2020, 05:37 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John from Central Florida View Post
First things first: Have you gone outside to listen to your furnace? You should hear it running if it’s working.

Dont hear anything runnning... is this my furnace in the pic here... ??
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Old 08-26-2020, 05:42 AM   #4
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Heres furnace i think and also thermostat i have.
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Old 08-26-2020, 07:00 AM   #5
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You won't get any heat out of the ceiling since that is a/c only.
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Old 08-26-2020, 07:06 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by mangymutt View Post
good day all,

I don't have any heat in my trailer and hoping someone could give some ideas on warming up.

Ive got a 2015 jayco 267 bhsw. Im plugged into electricity and i have propane on. Propanes working because ive checked the stove and i get fire.

I checked the thermostat on the wall, turned it all the way up .and i believe the switch on the bottom of it turned it just a click to the right. I turn the fan control on the ceiling to low fan and the temperature knob on that to as warm as the dial can go. Nothings happening except cold blowing air. I also checked and changed the 20amp furnace fuse for good measure but still cold blowing air.

Am i missing something? Heres the thermostat on the wall. And i can hear my hot water heater flame just kick in now to so propane is running.
Has it worked before? Are you a new owner of this unit?

I think you are mixing your independent AC and your furnace together. Are you sure your furnace heats through the AC unit? Some do, they have a heat pump option, or an electric heat strip option. I added a heat strip to my AC, and had to change the control knob. The new knob says low heat and high heat. Your thermostat, looks to be heat only. Just like my old OEM one.

I suspect you have small heat registers throughout the unit, on the floor or, mounted on paneling in a few places. With the AC fan blowing it might be hard to hear the furnace. The furnace uses 12V DC power for the control board and fan. Double check the 12V fuses. There should be a 15 amp blade fuse for the furnace, not a 20 amp fuse. Next pull the inside cover off the furnace. Mine has two very dark, 1/4 turn fasteners, you can use a coin to turn them. Behind the cover you will find a reset switch, try to reset the unit.

Sometimes, if I have not used the furnace in a long time, I have to turn the unit on and off a few times, to purge the gas line before it will ignite.
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Old 08-26-2020, 07:55 AM   #7
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There is a reset on the top of furnace accessed from inside. I have seen it but it has never failed to work.

Good luck finding the problem. Right now, I wish we could turn off the heat and humidity outside!
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Old 08-26-2020, 08:00 AM   #8
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Has it worked before? Are you a new owner of this unit?

I think you are mixing your independent AC and your furnace together. Are you sure your furnace heats through the AC unit? Some do, they have a heat pump option, or an electric heat strip option. I added a heat strip to my AC, and had to change the control knob. The new knob says low heat and high heat. Your thermostat, looks to be heat only. Just like my old OEM one.

I suspect you have small heat registers throughout the unit, on the floor or, mounted on paneling in a few places. With the AC fan blowing it might be hard to hear the furnace. The furnace uses 12V DC power for the control board and fan. Double check the 12V fuses. There should be a 15 amp blade fuse for the furnace, not a 20 amp fuse. Next pull the inside cover off the furnace. Mine has two very dark, 1/4 turn fasteners, you can use a coin to turn them. Behind the cover you will find a reset switch, try to reset the unit.

Sometimes, if I have not used the furnace in a long time, I have to turn the unit on and off a few times, to purge the gas line before it will ignite.

The ceiling has a dial to adjust cool to warmer much like a vehicle has when you adjust the twmperature. All i know is i turn it on to turn on the fan that bkows air right now it blows cold... thought adjusting the dial to warm would mean heat like i do in my truck.

Outside of the rv is a black panel. Dont kbow if this is firnace or not but ill post the pic. Other panel outisde i believe is for hot water?
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Old 08-26-2020, 08:04 AM   #9
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Crap, can't add attached pictures it diesnt give me option anymore???
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Old 08-26-2020, 08:18 AM   #10
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When you turn the heater on, does air come out of the floor vents?
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Old 08-26-2020, 10:15 AM   #11
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The ceiling has a dial to adjust cool to warmer much like a vehicle has when you adjust the twmperature. All i know is i turn it on to turn on the fan that bkows air right now it blows cold... thought adjusting the dial to warm would mean heat like i do in my truck.

Outside of the rv is a black panel. Dont kbow if this is furnace or not but ill post the pic. Other panel outisde i believe is for hot water?
Mine has two dial just like the car too. One for the thermostat and one for selecting the mode. If you have a heat pump your AC unit will be different than this. If you have the heat option, you will see Heat on one position of the mode switch. Needs to be set to heat. The thermostat, you can set it to hot, but if you do not have it set to heat mode, all you will get is room temperature air back out of the unit.

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Your black panel you are referring to is probably the access panel to your water heater.

In your first set of pictures you see the silver box, with the round hole. That is your furnace exhaust port. The furnace is directly behind it. Inside that camper at that same location. Here is a picture of the furnace cover, that I was referring too.

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Old 08-26-2020, 11:06 AM   #12
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There is a reset on the top of furnace accessed from inside. I have seen it but it has never failed to work.

Good luck finding the problem. Right now, I wish we could turn off the heat and humidity outside!
Partbof the problem being a newbie is not knowing where the heck this mythical furance was located. Checked outside, opened doors wondered is that furnace? Nope thats just water heater, thats not it.

Checked inside all spots, then peaked behind slotted air vent at floor level. Saw something in thers. Had to unscew it to get the wooden door off. Then i saw this large sauare3bkx, no access to it but ducts going out of it.

Saw ONE button on the top of that unit, pushed the button the other way. Nothing. Clicked it back... heard something kick in. No heat still when i checked the ceiling blowers. Shut the blowers at ceiling off.

Waited a minute checked the vents AT THE FLOOR LEVEL and got heat coming out!!! So warm and toasty!!

So yeah now learned ceiling vent controls for ac does nothing to control heat whatsoever.

Thermostat at wall does all the heat with on off switch on the bottom if same unit . Found furnace behind wooden vent at floor level after unscrewing the vent, removing and turning the switch inside there on the furnace off and then on again.

Thank you all!
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Old 08-26-2020, 11:14 AM   #13
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Glad you found your solution.

It is very good to try out all your systems at home, when not under pressure.
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Old 08-27-2020, 06:49 AM   #14
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Ok so i HAD heat. We left the trailer with the heat on, came back few hours later and theres no heat. Theres also nothing blowing at all.

Checked the propane tanks (furnace runs on propane right, not electricity) and they seem ok. Ones a little low so i turned the dial to have the indicator point to the full side.

Came back checked the heat, thermostat is placed to on, temperature turned all the way up. Nothing blowing.

I reset the furnace at the button on the furnace. Turn it off for a second turned it back. Nithjng. Turned it off for a few minutes and back, nothing. Checked the fuses, they look ok to me, nothing on the fuse looks broke to indicate its blown. The panel does read 20amp for the furnace which is what i checked as its the only 20amp fuse in the panel.

Tried to the reset button again this mlrningafter waking up but still nothing. Any ideas?
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Old 08-27-2020, 08:15 AM   #15
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I also have unplugged the fuse for a few minutes, plugged it back in, no change.

I unplugged the shore power the trailer was plugged into. Interestingly no power in the trailer at all. Looks like battery isnt supplying any power to trailer at all, not even the lights are working. Thiught the battery should stay charged from being plugged in.

Does the furnace need the battery power??? Like i said im plugged in so didnt think that should be an issue.

If need be, i can charge my rv battery by boosting it from my truck i guess? Or no? If so, how long would i keep it hooked up? Dont even know if that makes a difference to the furnaveor not anyway.

Thanks and sorry for all the questions, we're so new at this. Appreciate everyone's time.
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Old 08-27-2020, 08:42 AM   #16
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Hummm. I know this TT is new to you, so my first thought is a battery disconnect switch, second thought is a blown 30 amp fuse at the battery. Pull the battery cover and there usually an inline fuse holder close to the battery. Sometimes it is near the tail end of the 7 pin wire harness. As for a possible battery disconnect switch. Not all trailers come with one. Factory disconnect switches usually are in the cargo hold. Usually it is a red lever. Might be worth a google search "RV disconnect switch" and look at images, to see examples.

A multi meter would be your friend here. You can check the battery voltage, make sure you have a good ground to the TT frame. Also can check the continuity of questionable fuses. If you have a spare 12 light bulb, you can see if your battery has power, by making a simple jumper. Just an FYI, LEDs are diodes and electricity only flows through them one way, so if it does not work the first time, flip the leads around.

The Furnace only uses 12 volt power. If you are plugged into shore power your converter should provide all the power you need. But when disconnected from shore power, the battery should provide the power. This tells me your converter is working, but the battery side is having issues. There are a few other fuses to check. There is a reverse polarity fuse in the fuse box, and another for general load to protect the battery load line. If I recall they are both 30 amp fuses. Check them. If the battery was even momentarily connected with the wire leads crossed it will blow the reverse polarity fuse.

Next thing to check is the quality of the battery. It is a used battery and you probably have no clue how it was maintained or how old it is. There are caps on top of the battery. Pop them off, look inside. There is fluid in them, the lead plates should be covered. If the plates top of the plates are dry, the battery could be dead. But not necessarily. If you need to add fluid, only add DISTILLED water, never any other water. The minerals from any other water source will short out the battery.
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Old 08-27-2020, 12:59 PM   #17
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Checked the 30 amp at the battery, tested and its good. Checked the fuses in the rv and theyre all good also. I dont seem to have any rv disconnect switch.

Checked the battery, and the fluid seems to be non existent. Bought some deionized water and filled up the chambers on both sides. Itll take some time to charge now i guess if anything. It charges off the plugged in trailer i gyess ... slow? Does it speed the process of charging if i boosted it from the truck?

Ive also bought a new marine rv battery. " 615 cranking hours, 130 reserve capacity minutes and 75 amp hours / 20 hour" is that battery any good for when im running without power or am i better to get a more powerful one?
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Old 08-27-2020, 12:59 PM   #18
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Battery is deep cycle.
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Old 08-27-2020, 01:10 PM   #19
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I also have unplugged the fuse for a few minutes, plugged it back in, no change.

I unplugged the shore power the trailer was plugged into. Interestingly no power in the trailer at all. Looks like battery isnt supplying any power to trailer at all, not even the lights are working. Thiught the battery should stay charged from being plugged in.

Does the furnace need the battery power??? Like i said im plugged in so didnt think that should be an issue.

If need be, i can charge my rv battery by boosting it from my truck i guess? Or no? If so, how long would i keep it hooked up? Dont even know if that makes a difference to the furnaveor not anyway.

Thanks and sorry for all the questions, we're so new at this. Appreciate everyone's time.
furnace is 12 volts and needs battery supply. Lights are 12 voltis and needs battery supply. There is a 12 volt 30 amp fuse inline within 6' of the battery. It is located under the tong.
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Old 08-27-2020, 01:57 PM   #20
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furnace is 12 volts and needs battery supply. Lights are 12 voltis and needs battery supply. There is a 12 volt 30 amp fuse inline within 6' of the battery. It is located under the tong.
I found that 30 amp fuse attached to the battery. Tested it and its good so didnt need to replace. Just filled it with deionized watdr earlier and seeing if it takes if it does actually charge, will this make the furnace work also i wonder? Like i mentioned, i did buy another battery but havent hooked it up yet.
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