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Old 06-06-2015, 08:28 PM   #11
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I replaced the 30a cord on my 28DSBH and it was a piece of cake to do. There is a junction box inside the back storage that I took the cover off, unscrewed the twist cap connectors, removed the retaining ring and it pulled right out. Note -- I tied a light cord to the cable before I pulled it out to help pull the new cord back in. All told it took about 20 minutes.
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Old 06-06-2015, 08:31 PM   #12
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I should have mentioned, I keep my trailer outside at my hunting property all year long, thru the winter as well. I need to make sure there is no chance for moisture, or a bad connection. That is why I am frowning on the extension idea. Thank you tho, for the comments.
That is a concern, but it isn't difficult to address.

A 120 volt 30 amp connection needs to be kept basically dry, not moisture resistant. Keep the plug connection elevated above any possible water or snow level with some sort of rain shield over it. That will provide the protection you need.

My vision is something as simple as a little wooden tower, wooden stake, or wooden cribbing with a upside down plastic bucket over it. If the cords go up under the bucket then the rain will follow/shed down the cords to stay away from the open parts in the connectors.

Many people make the mistake of trying to seal things up completely with electrical tape or other methods. What generally happens with those methods is the water gets in, but then doesn't drain out. In my mind that is worse than having an elevated protected connector.

If you do replace with a longer cord be certain to verify that the new cord will properly push into the intended storage space available. Some replacement cord is less flexible and may not allow the curves needed to nestle in.

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Old 06-06-2015, 09:12 PM   #13
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……...If you do replace with a longer cord be certain to verify that the new cord will properly push into the intended storage space available.
======
Very good point, Vic. While I was relocating the pump in our 27.5RLTS I noticed how small the space was to store the cord. I read somewhere else about the cord getting tangled in the box and wouldn't come out. I bought male/female twist-lok
connectors and intstalled them where there is only about 10" of cord sticking out of the unit. Now I store the cord up in the basement with the water hose, etc.
That allowed me to open up the pump area to straighten out that a little more.
Jayco says to pull the cord out all the way, even if you don't need it all. I understand the reasoning but I doubt many folks do it.
Also, the twist-lok end on the cord fits back nicely into the factory cord cover on the unit so it closes.
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Old 06-06-2015, 10:41 PM   #14
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Dielectric grease in the female connector of the extension cord will keep the contacts from corroding. You can get it at auto parts store it's used on spark plug cables.
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Old 06-07-2015, 06:30 AM   #15
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Dielectric grease in the female connector of the extension cord will keep the contacts from corroding. You can get it at auto parts store it's used on spark plug cables.
Dielectric grease is a good idea for connectors and vehicle lamps.

No need to try to force it into the female connector. Putting a coating on the male plug pins will transfer enough inside to do the job. The grease will creep over time.

Regular old Vaseline is another good choice. It protects and doesn't react with copper, brass, or aluminum. I've been using Vaseline on connector slide contacts and lamp bases for decades.

A bit of history. At one time lamp bases were dipped in whale oil for protection and ease of removal. Whale oil will not evaporate over time.

vic

P.S. - The wooden stake with upside down plastic bucket trick will also work to protect those multiple adapters and timers that you use to supply outside Christmas lights power.
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Old 06-07-2015, 06:53 AM   #16
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Another possibility is one of the twist and lock removable power cords. You cut the present cord short. Replace the cover on the outside wall with the twist and lock connector then purchase the required length twist and lock cord. No more pushing in and pulling out the cord. We all know how sometimes the cord wraps around itself and becomes difficult to pull out. When you leave you simply unplug the cord and roll it up and put it away. I haven't done it but have thought about it. You can buy what you need on Amazon and most rv centers. My dealers service man told me it was an easy job. I know that many large boats and a lot of newer premium rvs use them. Do a search here I know there are threads about this because I have read them.
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Old 06-07-2015, 03:29 PM   #17
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But..

Thank you all for the good ideas and responses, but I am still asking just how one replaces the cord. Is the end open with eyelets for each wire? Do I need to disconnect anything like the battery first? Are they usually all a twist and screw end inside the trailer? How/where do I access it? Can I just take off that large round bezel and be able to get right inside? I'm trying to get a youtube vid with no luck so far.
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Old 06-07-2015, 03:39 PM   #18
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I would remove all power and disconnect the batt just to be sure. Follow the cord inside and it will terminate in either a junction box or the campers breaker panel. Just change the wires out wire for wire. They usually do not have connectors on them and I would solder the ends before terminating them if it it is the breaker panel. You may have to remove something to get to it like the OS shower box.

Be sure and use a longer cord cause you may loose some inside the rig. I would go with a 50a extension and cut the unused end off.

I sent you a pm.
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Old 06-07-2015, 03:39 PM   #19
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On mine there is a cabinet behind the plug. Inside the cabinet is a box that the cord winds up into. I traced mine around to the back of my converter and thats where it attached. It went into the main 30 amp breaker there . So you would have to loosen the screw on the 30 amp breaker and the screw on the neutral bar and then just remove it and connect the new one in the same place.
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Old 06-07-2015, 05:02 PM   #20
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Update...Thank you....

Okay, I see now on Eagle 328RLS the junction box is inside the trailer in the furnace compartment. I see the cable going to the box, opened it and see the wires. I will disconnect all power (thank you for the directions Norty) and I will replace with good soldered connections....as soon as I get a new longer cable.
Thank you all again.
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